Best Budget Steering Upgrades?
#16
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Thread Starter
I dont have the picture, and dont feel like searching for it.
So ill describe the best I can.
Your tie rod runs from your drivers side knuckle and attaches to the drag link near the passenger side.
The drag link runs from the pitman arm coming off your steering box to the passenger side knuckle.
The track bar runs from a frame mount on the drivers side to a mount on the passenger side of your front axle.
Check all your ends.. drop the TB, make sure the hole on the axle end isnt wallowed out.
Id just go for a zj tie rod (will run you about 50 bucks brand new if you get it from advance auto and use an online coupon (if your interested in this pm me..ill try to find the code for you). Then just replace the tre's on your drag link.
The XJ and ZJ drag links are the same.. its the tie rod which is bigger on the ZJ.
So ill describe the best I can.
Your tie rod runs from your drivers side knuckle and attaches to the drag link near the passenger side.
The drag link runs from the pitman arm coming off your steering box to the passenger side knuckle.
The track bar runs from a frame mount on the drivers side to a mount on the passenger side of your front axle.
Check all your ends.. drop the TB, make sure the hole on the axle end isnt wallowed out.
Id just go for a zj tie rod (will run you about 50 bucks brand new if you get it from advance auto and use an online coupon (if your interested in this pm me..ill try to find the code for you). Then just replace the tre's on your drag link.
The XJ and ZJ drag links are the same.. its the tie rod which is bigger on the ZJ.
I love to upgrade when I can. But, the existing tie rod seems to be in good shape. And, the drag link ends are sold weird... you can buy the end that goes to the pitman arm separately. But, the other end that goes to the tie rod is sold as part of a whole new drag link/center link!
It looks like I may have found a way to get all the parts for about $65 at partsgeek.com:
Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Tie Rod End
Front Left Inner To Connecting Tie Rod
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062962 $8.75 $8.75
Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Tie Rod End
Front Left Outer
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062961 $8.75 $8.75
Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Tie Rod End
Front Right Inner To Pitman Arm
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062963 $8.75 $8.75
Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Tie Rod End
Front Right Outer
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062819 $22.75 $22.75
Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee
Tie Rod End
Right - Pitman Arm to Steering Arm
Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve -- left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062882 $6.75 $6.75
__________________________________________________ _
But, are these Parts Master parts decent parts or are they going to suck or break sooner than normal?
#17
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Thread Starter
#18
Member
Thread Starter
You know, this leads me back to my original question about all this...
I wanted to know, if I could find a Grand Cherokee or the linkage from one in a junkyard, can't I just get a handful of new bushings and put those in the ZJ parts and put them on my XJ?
For that matter, it seems like the bars and ends are just fine. Can't I just get whatever bushings I need for the rest of the linkage and just replace those, keeping the rest of the existing parts? They're not even rusted, just greasy.
Thanks again everyone for your patience. This steering stuff is confusing for me.
I wanted to know, if I could find a Grand Cherokee or the linkage from one in a junkyard, can't I just get a handful of new bushings and put those in the ZJ parts and put them on my XJ?
For that matter, it seems like the bars and ends are just fine. Can't I just get whatever bushings I need for the rest of the linkage and just replace those, keeping the rest of the existing parts? They're not even rusted, just greasy.
Thanks again everyone for your patience. This steering stuff is confusing for me.
#20
Member
Thread Starter
I already have that pic on my desktop. Also, I'm pretty sure I mentioned I'm looking right at the diagram in the Haynes and even the Chilton's books I have here.
The problem seems to be with the diagram at that 4x4 store at the link I gave you guys. Thanks for clearing that up.
The problem seems to be with the diagram at that 4x4 store at the link I gave you guys. Thanks for clearing that up.
#21
Member
Thread Starter
I wanted to know, if I could find a Grand Cherokee or the linkage from one in a junkyard, can't I just get a handful of new bushings and put those in the ZJ parts and put them on my XJ?
For that matter, it seems like the bars and ends are just fine. Can't I just get whatever bushings I need for the rest of the linkage and just replace those, keeping the rest of the existing parts? They're not even rusted, just greasy.
For that matter, it seems like the bars and ends are just fine. Can't I just get whatever bushings I need for the rest of the linkage and just replace those, keeping the rest of the existing parts? They're not even rusted, just greasy.
Here's where I am with this now. Or, possibly the list of parts I gave if anyone can tell me if that brand is alright.
#22
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
Not to make a hard decision for ya but have you thought about doing the Durango power steering pump swap? Not sure if that was covered on this topic or not
#24
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Thread Starter
If a new steering box is necessary I'd probably try finding one of those. But, so far nobody can even tell me what bushings or boots or whatever I would need to use the ZJ junkyard upgrades listed there.
If they could tell me that, I could probably just keep the linkage I have and replace those inexpensive bits for now to make it safe to drive at least.
Plus, that picture is not useful to buy parts from anyplace that says stuff like "inner, outer, top, bottom" when describing the tie rods or ends.
Last edited by lucknuts; 05-13-2013 at 10:20 PM.
#26
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
You must mean #3. Durango Steering Box = beefier
If a new steering box is necessary I'd probably try finding one of those. But, so far nobody can even tell me what bushings or boots or whatever I would need to use the ZJ junkyard upgrades listed there.
If they could tell me that, I could probably just keep the linkage I have and replace those inexpensive bits for now to make it safe to drive at least.
#27
Member
Thread Starter
I'm a little more clear on the bars I already knew about, that I probably don't need to replace right now. But, as for what ends I need....
The best anyone has described it as 3 TREs and a drag link. I found a bunch of parts I can afford right now and listed them in this thread. Unfortunately, it seems that nobody is reading much of the text in these threads.
I was asking if that brand was okay to use, if anyone knows.
And, yes I agree that when I do get the upgrades, I might as well just get aftermarket parts for the ZJ for the linkage. I might try the same for the durango steering box if that's what it takes to fix the steering. Or, a rebuilt one for the XJ isn't bad at about $150.
And, the side question was about the fact that I can wiggle my steering shaft with my hand without the pitman moving. It doesn't move in and out like Radi mentioned in another thread but it spins about a 3/8 turn either way by hand.
I hope that clears things up.
#28
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Model: Cherokee
3/8 turn of slop is going to be like driving the Queen Mary while drunk. That's a lot of slop.
I'd give that preload adjustment 1/4 turn clockwise, tighten and see if the slop improves. Go for a drive and pay careful attention, looking for failure to return to center or a binding feeling on-center. If you get those, put the adjuster back where it was. Keep making small adjustments to see if you can improve it.
If you end up binding on center without removing the slop, the box is shot.
#29
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Ah, I just went back and re-read, you did indeed adjust the box and the slop remained.
You need a new steering box. It's worn beyond adjustment.
Skip the Durango box, for your purposes the OEM box is just fine and simpler to install.
Are your tie rod ends OK or are they shot? I usually grab them while having someone turn the wheel back and forth. You'l be able to feel any unwanted side to side movement.
You need a new steering box. It's worn beyond adjustment.
Skip the Durango box, for your purposes the OEM box is just fine and simpler to install.
Are your tie rod ends OK or are they shot? I usually grab them while having someone turn the wheel back and forth. You'l be able to feel any unwanted side to side movement.
#30
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8
Drag Link:
Moog - Tie Rod End
Part Number: DS1238
Part Number: ES3096L
Driver's side tie rod:
Part Number: ES3094L
Part Number: ES3095R
Edit: I have no experience with the brand you mentioned. If that's what you can afford to buy though, better to have good "cheap" parts, than bad parts.
Moog - Tie Rod End
Part Number: DS1238
- limited lifetime warranty
- UPC: 80066414454
- Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
- Front Right Outer
- Left Hand Drive Vehicles
Part Number: ES3096L
- limited lifetime warranty
- UPC: 80066414546
- Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
- Front Left Outer
- To Pitman Arm
- Left Hand Drive Vehicles
Driver's side tie rod:
Part Number: ES3094L
- limited lifetime warranty
- UPC: 80066414522
- Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
- Front Left Outer
- Left Hand Drive Vehicles
Part Number: ES3095R
- limited lifetime warranty
- UPC: 80066414539
- Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
- Front Right Inner
- To Connecting Tie Rod
- Left Hand Drive Vehicles
Edit: I have no experience with the brand you mentioned. If that's what you can afford to buy though, better to have good "cheap" parts, than bad parts.
Last edited by emptypockets; 05-13-2013 at 11:52 PM.