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*Best* radiator & water pump?

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Old 11-11-2012, 11:11 PM
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Default *Best* radiator & water pump?

I need a new water pump and *may* need a new radiator on my '01 XJ Limited. I'll go with a brand new pump, no reman. one, but I see these no-name brands at the local chain store auto part stores, is there a *good* one you recommend? If my rad is cracked or leaking I'll need a new one too, my '01 has one of the craplastic tank rads, if you know of a better one what would you recommend? I do not do any wheeling or towing with my '01 (those duties are reserved for my '88 Pioneer)

I appreciate the feedback.

Last edited by 8lugnuts; 11-11-2012 at 11:14 PM.
Old 11-11-2012, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 8lugnuts
I need a new water pump and *may* need a new radiator on my '01 XJ Limited. I'll go with a brand new pump, no reman. one, but I see these no-name brands at the local chain store auto part stores, is there a *good* one you recommend? If my rad is cracked or leaking I'll need a new one too, my '01 has one of the craplastic tank rads, if you know of a better one what would you recommend? I do not do any wheeling or towing with my '01 (those duties are reserved for my '88 Pioneer)

I appreciate the feedback.
just bought all those parts and more at the local autopart store for 200 bones.. stock works for what I do and for what you are doing. it also dropped my temp about 10 to 15 degrees with the better flowing radiator, old one apparently was plugged up a bit... also put on a new clutch fan while I was in there
Old 11-12-2012, 07:07 AM
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I bit the bullet and bought a HESCO wp. Works great, no problems.
Old 11-12-2012, 08:29 AM
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I am getting this
Triple core for $230
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
Old 11-12-2012, 09:43 AM
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be careful with that 3 row from radiator barn. its a good radiator but it is awful thick. if you have a t-case drop or motor mount lift or grand cherokee fan hub you may run into clearence issues. mine ran into issues when i did my longarm kit since it changed the angle of the engine. the fan hub rubbed a hole in that radiator. the two row fits with no problems.
Old 11-12-2012, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 8lugnuts
.......If my rad is cracked or leaking I'll need a new one too, my '01 has one of the craplastic tank rads, if you know of a better one what would you recommend?......
Do your homework when selecting a new rad.....multiple narrow row copper/brass rads r old school while single very wide row aluminum/plastic rads r the modern design and have been for 20+ years. $100K autos r using aluminum/plastic design rads, not copper/brass. Something to think about when plunking down those $.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm
Old 11-12-2012, 03:58 PM
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Radiator is cracked so I ordered a stock one. As I stated earlier this XJ is used for daily driving, no wheeling or towing, light towing to the dump once in awhile. My old '88 Pioneer has an all metal rad.

Thanks for your input everyone.
Old 11-12-2012, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
I am getting this
Triple core for $230
http://radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator
Link didnt work for me, but if its the 3 core do some research. I got mine for like $160 shipped...
Old 11-12-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jebmccall
be careful with that 3 row from radiator barn. its a good radiator but it is awful thick. if you have a t-case drop or motor mount lift or grand cherokee fan hub you may run into clearence issues. mine ran into issues when i did my longarm kit since it changed the angle of the engine. the fan hub rubbed a hole in that radiator. the two row fits with no problems.
Since the OEM radiator is 1 row, I am sure 2 row is a good enough upgrade, and I do NOT need any clearance issues. I need stuff to be bone stock and simple. Thanks. 2 row it is.
Old 11-12-2012, 06:47 PM
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I always liked the csf radiators from dpgoffroad. I went with the 3 row and had no thickness issues.
Old 11-12-2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Since the OEM radiator is 1 row, I am sure 2 row is a good enough upgrade, and I do NOT need any clearance issues. I need stuff to be bone stock and simple. Thanks. 2 row it is.
Might want to do the arithmetic on the 2 row. From what I can see, the 2 row has a 1 5/16" thick core. My guess is there's 1/4" (of air) between the 2 rows leaving a total of 1 1/16" actual tube width for both tubes added together. The OE factory style core is a single 1 1/4" actual total tube width so it's 3/16" thicker than the 2 row. The 2 row is not 2X thicker (it's actually thinner) than OE stock nor is the 3 row 3X thicker than OE stock. Per the link I post, modern style rads utilize less rows of tubes but wider in width tubes, thus efficiency increases.

Last edited by djb383; 11-12-2012 at 07:09 PM.
Old 11-12-2012, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by djb383
Do your homework when selecting a new rad.....multiple narrow row copper/brass rads r old school while single very wide row aluminum/plastic rads r the modern design and have been for 20+ years. $100K autos r using aluminum/plastic design rads, not copper/brass. Something to think about when plunking down those $.
Wow /\/\/\ ,My new to me cherokee is on its second(and last) plastic aluminum radiator I will be getting a 2 row CSF Im done with plastic aluminum garbage that lasts 2 yrs and splits !
Old 11-12-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Aljay
Wow /\/\/\ ,My new to me cherokee is on its second(and last) plastic aluminum radiator I will be getting a 2 row CSF Im done with plastic aluminum garbage that lasts 2 yrs and splits !
Most everybody gets more than 2 years out a rad regardless of what it's made of......might want to think about/review how good (or not) your installation procedure is. If the rad is not supported/mounted correctly, kiss the CSF goodbye as well (in maybe less than 2 years). The FSM says plastic tanks are stronger than metal tanks but nothing is indestructible, especially if installed incorrectly.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:00 PM
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The one I am replacing is the original.....117K+ miles.
Old 11-12-2012, 11:47 PM
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with all the complaints about the plastic tanked radiator I do agree..... But why go buy the high dollar aftermarket when the stock brass 2 row works perfectly fine, and is a dream to repair all things considered. You can pick one up at a bone yard for @60$ and rod it and solder it yourself.


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