*Best* radiator & water pump?
#1
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Model: Cherokee
*Best* radiator & water pump?
I need a new water pump and *may* need a new radiator on my '01 XJ Limited. I'll go with a brand new pump, no reman. one, but I see these no-name brands at the local chain store auto part stores, is there a *good* one you recommend? If my rad is cracked or leaking I'll need a new one too, my '01 has one of the craplastic tank rads, if you know of a better one what would you recommend? I do not do any wheeling or towing with my '01 (those duties are reserved for my '88 Pioneer)
I appreciate the feedback.
I appreciate the feedback.
Last edited by 8lugnuts; 11-11-2012 at 11:14 PM.
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I need a new water pump and *may* need a new radiator on my '01 XJ Limited. I'll go with a brand new pump, no reman. one, but I see these no-name brands at the local chain store auto part stores, is there a *good* one you recommend? If my rad is cracked or leaking I'll need a new one too, my '01 has one of the craplastic tank rads, if you know of a better one what would you recommend? I do not do any wheeling or towing with my '01 (those duties are reserved for my '88 Pioneer)
I appreciate the feedback.
I appreciate the feedback.
#5
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Year: 1997
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be careful with that 3 row from radiator barn. its a good radiator but it is awful thick. if you have a t-case drop or motor mount lift or grand cherokee fan hub you may run into clearence issues. mine ran into issues when i did my longarm kit since it changed the angle of the engine. the fan hub rubbed a hole in that radiator. the two row fits with no problems.
#6
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Year: 1998
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http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rad2.htm
#7
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Radiator is cracked so I ordered a stock one. As I stated earlier this XJ is used for daily driving, no wheeling or towing, light towing to the dump once in awhile. My old '88 Pioneer has an all metal rad.
Thanks for your input everyone.
Thanks for your input everyone.
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#9
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Year: 1998
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be careful with that 3 row from radiator barn. its a good radiator but it is awful thick. if you have a t-case drop or motor mount lift or grand cherokee fan hub you may run into clearence issues. mine ran into issues when i did my longarm kit since it changed the angle of the engine. the fan hub rubbed a hole in that radiator. the two row fits with no problems.
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Year: 1998
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Might want to do the arithmetic on the 2 row. From what I can see, the 2 row has a 1 5/16" thick core. My guess is there's 1/4" (of air) between the 2 rows leaving a total of 1 1/16" actual tube width for both tubes added together. The OE factory style core is a single 1 1/4" actual total tube width so it's 3/16" thicker than the 2 row. The 2 row is not 2X thicker (it's actually thinner) than OE stock nor is the 3 row 3X thicker than OE stock. Per the link I post, modern style rads utilize less rows of tubes but wider in width tubes, thus efficiency increases.
Last edited by djb383; 11-12-2012 at 07:09 PM.
#12
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Year: 2001
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Do your homework when selecting a new rad.....multiple narrow row copper/brass rads r old school while single very wide row aluminum/plastic rads r the modern design and have been for 20+ years. $100K autos r using aluminum/plastic design rads, not copper/brass. Something to think about when plunking down those $.
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Year: 1998
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Most everybody gets more than 2 years out a rad regardless of what it's made of......might want to think about/review how good (or not) your installation procedure is. If the rad is not supported/mounted correctly, kiss the CSF goodbye as well (in maybe less than 2 years). The FSM says plastic tanks are stronger than metal tanks but nothing is indestructible, especially if installed incorrectly.
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Year: 1990
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with all the complaints about the plastic tanked radiator I do agree..... But why go buy the high dollar aftermarket when the stock brass 2 row works perfectly fine, and is a dream to repair all things considered. You can pick one up at a bone yard for @60$ and rod it and solder it yourself.