After doing this all last year with Permatex Form-A-Gasket high temp hardening sealant, I believe I now have a leak in the WP. I've already redone the thermo housing, (a month ago), and it's still damp around the seal, never drips, just the sealant has not hardened on the bottom. I understand now this form-a-gasket was NOT the proper stuff to use, and now have been told high temp RTV, Aircraft Shillac (sp?), and copper gasket brush on material, etc..Not all of them combined, of course.. But various people have suggested various things. I want what will work BEST with the gaskets provided with both of these.


I think I may have a WP starting to go, even though it's only 11 months old from Autozone.. When I re-do this whole thing, I'd like to be sure to use the RIGHT sealant this time. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated!

My 96 2dr 5spd tows around my 3,000lb camper all summer, I don't want to be stuck on the side of a New England highway with coolant leaks.

Kevin

 

I worked in a radiator shop doing all cooling system repairs for 4 years and all we ever used on gaskets was the orange high temp rtv. never gave me any problems

 

Would that be available at any local parts store? I don't think I've seen orange in there before... If anyone has pictures of the packaging, or a link to their suggestion, that would also help immensely!

Also, if anyone knows the torque specs for the WP, and Thermostat housing, that'd be a huge help as well. I plan to get a manual eventually, but won't be able to this weekend before I do the WP and Thermostat housing swap.
Thank you!

 

this is what i use, along with the supplied gasket.

 

thats good stuff

the biggest mistake people make is not letting the rtv set long enough
before filling

 

I don't want to mess around with this one.. How long is best to let the RTV sit?

As for applying it, just put it on either side of the gasket, and install right away, or should I let it tack up for a little while? If so, how long?

I just don't want to be re-doing this any time soon! The truck has 176K on it, runs great and tows the camper around very well..

Thanks for the responses, keep em comin!

 

I always put it on and install the part, but leave the bolts loose and let it harden. Then torqe to spec

 

For me, it's been RTV black and torque straight away. Fill in an hour or so to let it set up.

If that hasn't worked, I tear it all down because I've missed something and need to clean again. A seal is only as good as the preparation you put into it.

Do not use that blue stuff - I've never had it work very well. Black for general purpose, red for moderately high temperatures, and copper for self-grounding sensors and exhaust sealing.

 

The red stuff is the stuff I was referring to and I always put it on both sides of the gasket torqued right away and let sit for a while like 5-90 was saying

 

Thanks for all of the responses! As far as the Red RTV, what would make that better than the WP/Thermostat Housing cement posted above? I ask out of curiousity, because there very well could be a good reason.

I'll be re-doing the waterpump at the same time (defective AZ pump), so it looks like whatever I use for one, I can use for the other?

 

In my experience, I've never had any problems with the red RTV. I don't think I've used the specific product you listed above. I use the red stuff for its temperature handling capability. I've even used it on exhaust gaskets that weren't totally shot but wouldn't quite seal properly.

I would certainly use it for anything to do with the cooing system. The only time I use another type of RTV silicone is when I'm dealing with oil I make sure to get the oil resistant stuff.

 

you don't need to let the RTV set more than 10to20 on something with
a good smooth surface anda gasket
but if you are making a gasket or have a really jacked up surface
over night is what you want if possible

 

Thank you all SO much for the responses! After the teardown, I checked the gasket surface of the Thermo housing with a good ruler. There was my problem! Don't know how it happened, but you could have fit some sheets of paper in the gap that the sensor side of the housing had in it..

Did a NEW housing, from NAPA which was $31.67 I believe. It's a polished aluminum, which doesn't matter to me (my truck is a workhorse, not a show truck lol), but it went on perfectly.

I also replaced the WP that was only 11K old, with a replacement from AZ under their lifetime warranty. There was clear signs it had been indeed leaking from the weep hole in the bottom.. Too bad they don't make up for the 3 hours of MY lifetime it took to replace it.

I used the red RTV, and let it sit for 2 hours after buttong it all up, before I filled an started the truck.

Thanks all for the posts, I appreciate the input!

 

with properly prepped, and straight surfaces there is no need for sealant on water pumps or t stat housings. it isn't there from the factory, and you shouldn't use it either. i used to do that crap years ago when i started out as a mechanic, its not supposed to be there. clean the surface, use the supplied gasket, and torque it properly and it will be fine.

if you have pitted or warped surfaces, that needs to be addressed. warped surfaces can be caused by improper torque, or just wear and tear from heat. just thought i'd share, its annoying having to go back and fix something someone used a bunch of goop on to seal it.

i'm tearing down my mj right now, and the po used all rtv to install the valve cover, i want to go strangle whoever did it.

 

x2 RTV black on everything for me. why spend money on 3 or 4 different colors when you can buy one for everything?