Best way to fix a door hinge that pulling away from the frame??
#1
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Year: 1994 + 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6 - 4.0
Best way to fix a door hinge that pulling away from the frame??
I never had this issue with my 4d, but my 95 XJ 2d daily driver has the driver side door hinge pulling away from the frame. The door pops every time I open it enough to get in, since it rubs the front fender. Any recommendations on how to fix this? I don't know anyone in my area that can weld, so I was curious about the bolt on method.. I've seen some posts about welding it, and I am worried about it not lining up just right and still having a gap from the frame.
Bolt on method:
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthre...welding+hinges
Hinge repair plate?
https://www.50kplasma.com/shop/more-...air-plate-fix/
It really the only problem I have with my 2d and its really annoying... When it rains water comes in since the door is pushed out, and if the windows are up I can read air flowing in.. ><
Bolt on method:
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthre...welding+hinges
Hinge repair plate?
https://www.50kplasma.com/shop/more-...air-plate-fix/
It really the only problem I have with my 2d and its really annoying... When it rains water comes in since the door is pushed out, and if the windows are up I can read air flowing in.. ><
#3
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Location: Portage la Prairie, Manitoba
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It is almost impossible to weld it back together. I assume it is the top hinge that is pulling away. My '93 XJ had the same issue. Tried the welder, no go. Solution was to drill through the hinge and door frame and draw it back into place with about a 4" x 1/2" bolt and washers. Hasn't moved since. Just have to find the sweet spot for the bolt so you can get the nut and washers threaded on from under the dash.
#4
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Year: 1994 + 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6 - 4.0
The top hinge is pulled away a little bit, but the bottom hinge is worse... It was like that when I bought it, so not sure what happened to it.
Was the bolt method very hard? I imagine that is what I will do, did you use a plate like the link I posted? Or was the 4" bolt enough?
Either way I am worried about it not lining up right.. but I need to get it fixed, I hate that the door makes a loud pop as it rubs the fender when I open the door. Also hearing wind as I drive is annoying since the door is pushed away from the frame..
Was the bolt method very hard? I imagine that is what I will do, did you use a plate like the link I posted? Or was the 4" bolt enough?
Either way I am worried about it not lining up right.. but I need to get it fixed, I hate that the door makes a loud pop as it rubs the fender when I open the door. Also hearing wind as I drive is annoying since the door is pushed away from the frame..
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Bolting the hinge?
It was a long time ago! Looking at it today, I think I must have opened up the front fender. Handful of torx head screws and a bolt on the bottom. Then, with the door shut in place, drilled trough the hinge and into the interior under the dash. I see two bolt heads, looks like 1/2” wrench would grab them. So a 5/16” bolt.
easy? Depends. Time consuming? Yup. Technically difficult? Not really. I don’t think I had to undo the fender flares from the inner fenders. They are the epitome of PITA.
the door hasn’t moved since it was bolted.
easy? Depends. Time consuming? Yup. Technically difficult? Not really. I don’t think I had to undo the fender flares from the inner fenders. They are the epitome of PITA.
the door hasn’t moved since it was bolted.
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Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
Now I know this is welding but my method was quite easy to repair and have the door aligned up.
I found a plate of 6mm or so steel which was similar height to the hinge and about 2"-3" long. Removed the fender completely and cleaned up around the hinge. Next I made sure the door lined up nicely with the A pillar, rear door (B pillar on 2 door) and the rocker and seam welded the top and bottom edged of the hinge. At this point you could hook the fender back on and make sure that you can get it straight with the door which should be easy enough. Now with the fender off again I welded this plate steel butt against the forward facing edge of the hinge and then welded the top and bottom edges of the plate to the inner structure. So now instead of having a say 2"x2" footing, it has a 4"-5" x 2" footing.
I must say that repair plate you linked looks way overkill but it sure should never fail. If I had spotted those, I probably would have thought about making a piece shaped like a C to go around the top, side and bottom of the hinge to give it a good grab all around. But I didn't and it hasn't failed yet. Good luck.
I found a plate of 6mm or so steel which was similar height to the hinge and about 2"-3" long. Removed the fender completely and cleaned up around the hinge. Next I made sure the door lined up nicely with the A pillar, rear door (B pillar on 2 door) and the rocker and seam welded the top and bottom edged of the hinge. At this point you could hook the fender back on and make sure that you can get it straight with the door which should be easy enough. Now with the fender off again I welded this plate steel butt against the forward facing edge of the hinge and then welded the top and bottom edges of the plate to the inner structure. So now instead of having a say 2"x2" footing, it has a 4"-5" x 2" footing.
I must say that repair plate you linked looks way overkill but it sure should never fail. If I had spotted those, I probably would have thought about making a piece shaped like a C to go around the top, side and bottom of the hinge to give it a good grab all around. But I didn't and it hasn't failed yet. Good luck.
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