They warm up quickly because there's no open hole, right?

 

Yes, they have a hole. With a BB in it. That jiggles. I call it a "jiggle valve".

 

Yes, they have a open hole when the motor is off because the BB falls away from the hole. When the motor is running, the BB gets pushed by coolant flow into the hole, thus plugging the hole to allow for faster warm-up, right? The jiggle valve is only open bleeding air/coolant when the motor is off, no?

 

I don't know.

All I know is every Stant super Stat with a hole that I drilled, or ones I didn't drill, ran cold. Factory stat works perfectly summer and winter.

 

Drilling holes in stats accomplishes nothing more than delaying/prolonging engine warm-up......especially in cool/cold weather. Depending on the number of holes and how big the holes, in cold weather, the engine may not reach the stat's rated temp at all.

 

So the best way to go is to buy a factory stat....

 

.......not if it says echo n Mexico. The way they r treating us, those kids and our soldier, I'm boycotting Mexico.

 

Hecho en Israel.... Oy vay!!!!

 

I thought one of your posts/pics a while back, of an OE Mopar stat, said Mexico on the box, no? Maybe it was someones elses pic.

 

The most common method done is to jack up the rear until the back of the engine is the highest point in the system (apart from the football...) and remove the temperature sensor at the back of the head. Add coolant - slowly - until it starts to come out of that hole, then replace the sensor.

(You may use copper-based RTV or never-seez to install the sensor to make it easier to remove next time. Do not use other RTV or PTFE! The sensor is self-grounding, and non-metal-bearing sealants will screw with the ground.)

There are a couple of other methods, but I don't recall them at the moment - just be careful you don't damage that sensor, okeh? (I believe it's a 7/16" hex - use a 6-point deep socket to remove it.) Me? I prefer to just resolve the problem and make it sort itself out.

(And there's nothing inherently wrong with the idea of a "closed" cooling system - if it's bad, why are OEMs moving toward it? I've owned five RENIX XJs, and a few other vehicles with OEM closed systems, and not had any trouble. The only real issue I had with anything was a RENIX I'd bought that was already converted - and I was seriously considering switching it back...)

 

Esta pictura no es para yo.

 

Here's what the FSM says about "bleeding" or "burping" the Renix system.
Check this out from the FSM

This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.

Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..

 

I've seen that myth post numerous times (#25) and I have never understood why one would raise the rear of the motor higher than the front to "burp" the cooling system thru the sending unit hole. On level ground, the front of the motor (where coolant/air exit) is higher than the rear.....air naturally rises in a liquid so it naturally migrates to the front of the motor even when the motor is off. The instant the motor starts, coolant, and any air, exit the front of the motor, via the front of the head (the high end), thru that dime sized hole directly beside the t-stat. An air "bubble" is not going to remain behind or surrounding the stat when the motor starts as coolant instantly begins flowing rapidly around/by the stat and out the dime sized hole beside the stat the moment the motor is started. Any air is constantly circulated to the bottle and separates from the coolant. Air remains in the the top half of the bottle to be vented off if/when the pressure rating of the cap is reached.

Again, drilling hole(s) in stats just prolongs engine warm-up and is totally unnecessary.

 

Let me see if I have this straight.......the FSM makes no mention of removing the temp sending unit in the rear of the head and then raising the rear of the motor/vehicle higher than the front? WTF? Must be a misprint.

 

I thought that the system should self bleed itself as well (that's how it looked to me as I also observed the rear of the engine is lower than the front), but lo and behold, upon filling my cooling system and starting up, temps shot up through the roof and never really went down. However a thermocouple placed at the water outlet confirmed that the temps were ok. There must have been an air pocket at the rear where the sender is. After a few hours and finding this bleeding info, I finally did the bleeding procedure and viola, the temp gauge dropped to normal levels and all was well. It may not be in the FSM, but there are plenty of things learned after those are written.