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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I am going to ask around to see if I can find anyone with a blowtorch / welder. I guess if I can't find someone with one I might just try to hit it with some PB blaster and try to loosen it with pliers or with the double nut trick. I was also looking at getting a bolt extract that I can use with a ratchet so that is on the table as well. Honestly it's looking to be less of a hassle at this point to just take the front end off to get a drill in there rather than getting the heat.
EDIT:
I see that I can get a 90 degree drill attachment. Should I just get that and go the extractor route?
You can get a simple MAP torch at your local Home Depot type store for around $30. I use the MAP torch all the time with great success on all kinds of auto and home repairs - it's definitely worth having one. Grab one when you get the nuts.
Keep soaking that thing in PB blaster while you're doing other things, the longer it has to work the better!
Well I got some great news! I was able to get the bolt out by hitting with PB blaster last night and letting it soak in all night. I hit it again this morning just to be sure. When I got home today I gave a few good taps with a hammer then I used the double nut trick and just worked it slowly while continuing to hit it with PB blaster when it seemed to get tight again.
So I guess the next thing is getting a replacement bolt for the one that broke. I went to the hardware store and picked up a few different bolts. I couldn't find the exact length but I got some that are pretty close. Do I need to find the EXACT length or will any in the photo work below. Same goes for the washer. Couldn't find the same size so I get 3 that are pretty similar. The closest one in size is the chrome washer. Not sure if that will work.
Well I got some great news! I was able to get the bolt out by hitting with PB blaster last night and letting it soak in all night. I hit it again this morning just to be sure. When I got home today I gave a few good taps with a hammer then I used the double nut trick and just worked it slowly while continuing to hit it with PB blaster when it seemed to get tight again.
So I guess the next thing is getting a replacement bolt for the one that broke. I went to the hardware store and picked up a few different bolts. I couldn't find the exact length but I got some that are pretty close. Do I need to find the EXACT length or will any in the photo work below. Same goes for the washer. Couldn't find the same size so I get 3 that are pretty similar. The closest one in size is the chrome washer. Not sure if that will work.
I think I see an original bolt and a shiny one that is a smick shorter, I would use that, and the same type of washer as original...if its too short, packing a slightly longer bolt with washers can be acceptable,
provided common sense is applied
I think I see an original bolt and a shiny one that is a smick shorter, I would use that, and the same type of washer as original...if its too short, packing a slightly longer bolt with washers can be acceptable,
provided common sense is applied
Agree - the "smick" shorter should be fine - it's definitely not a bolt that has to be perfectly exact - what matters is that it threads in enough to hold and that the washer is the same type (in other words don't use the lock washer when the original was a standard flat washer).
I am going to give the bolt and flat washer a try tomorrow. I guess my final concern will be having a clean mating surface for the gasket. I got a lot of the junk and old gasket off and hit it with a putty knife and wire brush. I'm trying to find my dremel tool to see if I have a wire brush attachment. If I do I will probably hit it with that. I also got some fine sandpaper to smooth it down a bit. How hardcore do I need to clean it up? Should I try to remove all the rust?
That surface does look rough. If you use sandpaper just make sure you put a hard block behind it to keep everything flat. I think a run with 150 then 220 grit should do the trick.
When I get cheap gaskets I usually put a skim coat of RTV on both sides before installing. I'm not sure where I picked that up from, but it seems to be very effective.
When I get cheap gaskets I usually put a skim coat of RTV on both sides before installing. I'm not sure where I picked that up from, but it seems to be very effective.
I still use old-school Permatex #2 on paper gaskets for things like water pumps and thermostat housings. Works really well.
OK thanks for the tips. I bought some Permatex high temp thread sealant for the bolts. I also bought a Fel-Pro 35629 gasket and some Permatex indian head shellac, but from the looks of it the Fel-Pro gasket already has a line of sealant that I am assuming will expand when I torque the water pump down? I also bought a 220 grit sanding block which I used a little bit on it and it kind of cleaned it up but I am going to hit it more today. I am trying to avoid using a gasket maker because I did that when I changed my thermostat a few years ago and it just seemed a bit messy (although there were no leaks). I guess the worst case if it starts to leak again I will just need to strip it down and use gasket maker.
12-18-2018, 10:26 AM
