Forgive me now as I'm whiny & being a girl.

I realize I need to replace my brakes. Having NEVER done brake work before I do not know what a good break vs. a bad brake looks or really feels like. I push the pedal, I stop. Thats my extent of knowledge.

Lately they squeak when I push the pedal & if I have to stomp of them (like when some jackhole cuts me off) my heep pulls to the right.

Now, my concern grew majorly this morning. Was driving home, pressed on the brake & I felt a few (about 3) jerks & didn't stop. I had to yank the e-brake.

I had to make the 30mile drive home praying. They seem like they are working again, but idk for how long. Might I have just had an air bubble? Master cylinder issues?

My husband says my rear brakes have about 80% life left but that one of my rotors is warped.

I have a 95 XJ I was thinking of just swapping them out to save me some cash til taxes. Being a girl right now my hunting capacity is low, anyone know of a detailed write up on this? Or am I wasting my time cuz my rotors are fine? I don't mind doing the work multiple times, that doesn't bother me. Its good experience for me as I see it, but IDK WTF I'm doing.

Thanks for any advice & for being gentle w/ me while I'm in my pansy state.

 

Yep, sounds like ya just need some new brake pads girl maybe some turning of the rotars if its possible on the front, if not new rotars. Not too much money wise prolly under $100 for new pads n rotars.

 

Sounds like you need more than brake pads. Can you carefully get it to a good shop (not Midas!) and get a diagnostic done.

It doesn't do much good to just throw parts at it trying to fix a problem.

 

Like I said rotars could be in need of turning aswell if possible, she has a squeal going on so she is more then likely starting to hit metal to metal.

 

I probably could if I could afford it. I just had to dump 800 on tires last month so I'm strapped for a bit.

I just have to get the heep to make it til tax time & then she'll get a complete over haul.

 

You can't drive it if you have no brakes. You said yours went completely out. Just fix what's broken right now, worry about the complete overhaul later.

 

Thats my plan.

Yes, the brakes went out on my way home, they did start working again. So I'm wondering if I may have also had an air bubble in my brake line or if it could be a sign of issues with my brake master cylinder.

I will be putting "new" rotors & new pads on today.
As far as the pads is there any that seem to have good life? I see O'Riellys has the standard cheap set for 10 bucks but I'm looking at a set that says they are semi-metallic for 15-20 a set. Is it just a matter of preference?

 

You stated that on a hard stop it pulls to the right. That indicates either a sticking left caliper, or a collapsed flexible brake line on the left front, preventing fluid flow. If it's the rubber hose replace both sides.

 

The cheap set blows. I prefer the ceramics.

 

Also: Check the fluid. If you're running light on fluid you might have air introduced into the system. If the fluid is low, bleed the brakes after you put new pads and rotors in. Check the functionality of your calipers, when you squeeze the pistons back in, they should not bind or grind

 

The squealing is most likey caused by metal on metal with the pads and rotors. You mentioned you had 80% on your rear rotors? You mean drums? Front pads and rotors will wear faster than the back and will need to be replaced sooner than the rear drums.

To check and see what needs to be replaced just pull your front wheels off and look at the rotors. They should be smooth with no grooves....if they look like they could be placed in a record player and produce music they are junk! The pads should have a groove down the middle....if the pad no longer has this groove then its time to replace them.

As for the pulling... uneven pad wear can cause this which could indicate a caliper problem as mentioned earlier. As for your brakes going out, if the rotors are warped they can push the piston back into the caliper and when you apply the pedal for the first time it will go to the floor as it tries to push enough fluid back into the piston. If it happens again try pumping the pedal a few times.

To tell if the rotors are warped they will need to be turned on a brake lathe or (if they are bad enough) when brakes are applied the car will vibrate.

 

Check your brake booster, do this by pulling the one way valve out of it after driving/idling, There should be vacuum. If no vacuum is present replace. Also any leaks from the master (massive leak) this will also cause failure with allowing air in lines. Just add this to the list of things to check.

 

try posting in your wheeling neighborhood area theres plenty of good people on here maybe offer some help get you at least stopping again were all tight on funds right now....

 

I think your '91 XJ has the Hydro-Boost brake system. This system uses the power steering pump to aid in braking pressure rather than using a vacuum operated brake booster. Read this. >http://www.scribd.com/doc/6829161/Op...-of-HYDROBOOST

 

One other (easy) thing to check, you may have lost a brake pad up front.
Worn pads can sometimes shear right off the backing plate.
This would explain why the pedal suddenly dropped, you had to make up the thickness of the pad by pumping extra fluid into the caliper.
Check the brake fluid in the reservoir, is it suddenly very low?
You'd best pull the front wheels and have a look, if the metal pad backer is grinding on the rotor, that rotor is soon to be unsalvageable.