CCKen

You do good work.


Was that connector one of the ones in the pic I posted?

JPXJMOAB

Yes it was. I'm planning to pull for other side hatch panel off and check that connector/the grounds over there just for reassurance of a good connection.

Swaz

Yea open the trunk take apart the interior pieces to reveal the right rear tail light harness check all wires and make sure they aren't corroded or broken I ended up by passing the connector lmk how it goes

JPXJMOAB

Did you not read above? It's been fixed.

Swaz

Yea my fault was trying to delete the comment. Sorry

JPXJMOAB

Swaz

I'm assuming the wiring between the driver door and chassis resolved your issue? I'm having the same problem keep blowing the #16 fuse I had already repaired the door wiring . My only concern is I had done some welding on the vehicle without the battery disconnected like a dumby.

JPXJMOAB

Fixing the drivers door wiring did fix the issue in my case.

CCKen

Thanks for the follow up.


Good luck on the driver's side.


Those grounds shown in my pic are nothing more than sheet metal screws that work loose. Worth a look.

BlueRidgeMark

Yeah, I even found the same thing on my battery to inner fender ground. I have seen one pic that Ken has posted where that ground is a nut pressed or welded into the sheet metal, with a machine screw securing the connector from the battery. Mine was just a #10 sheet metal screw. Not my idea of a quality ground!

I replaced mine by drilling out the hole to 5/16", then cleaning to bare metal around it, and threading a 5/16" carriage bolt through from the back. On the front went a washer then a nut (all liberally coated with dielectric grease, of course), and then the ring connector from my (new) battery ground cable, then a nut. Basically, in installed a ground stud there.

All that to say, I suggest a similar approach with those grounds. Use something like a #10 a machine screw from the backside, etc.

CCKen

CCKen

BlueRidgeMark

Yes, dielectric grease, the correct protectant for electrical connections which do not contain aluminum conductors, as any competent engineer can tell you.

As opposed to No-Ox or Oxguard (and the like), which are made for electrical connections which do contain aluminum conductors, and which have exactly the same electrical conductivity as dielectric grease.

fb97xj1

I dont use dielectric grease on anything but spark plug boots.

BlueRidgeMark

It's good for that, too, but you are missing out on the correct product for your electrical connections.

Read the link in my earlier post. All that, "AH! It's an insulator!" stuff you hear is Internet Ignorance and Old Wives Tales.