Blowing IOD fuse-dead short
#17
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Originally Posted by CCKen
You do good work.
Was that connector one of the ones in the pic I posted?
Was that connector one of the ones in the pic I posted?
#18
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Yea open the trunk take apart the interior pieces to reveal the right rear tail light harness check all wires and make sure they aren't corroded or broken I ended up by passing the connector lmk how it goes
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Originally Posted by Swaz
Yea open the trunk take apart the interior pieces to reveal the right rear tail light harness check all wires and make sure they aren't corroded or broken I ended up by passing the connector lmk how it goes
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I'm assuming the wiring between the driver door and chassis resolved your issue? I'm having the same problem keep blowing the #16 fuse I had already repaired the door wiring . My only concern is I had done some welding on the vehicle without the battery disconnected like a dumby.
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Originally Posted by Swaz
I'm assuming the wiring between the driver door and chassis resolved your issue? I'm having the same problem keep blowing the #16 fuse I had already repaired the door wiring . My only concern is I had done some welding on the vehicle without the battery disconnected like a dumby.
#24
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Thanks for the follow up.
Good luck on the driver's side.
Those grounds shown in my pic are nothing more than sheet metal screws that work loose. Worth a look.
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Yeah, I even found the same thing on my battery to inner fender ground. I have seen one pic that Ken has posted where that ground is a nut pressed or welded into the sheet metal, with a machine screw securing the connector from the battery. Mine was just a #10 sheet metal screw. Not my idea of a quality ground!
I replaced mine by drilling out the hole to 5/16", then cleaning to bare metal around it, and threading a 5/16" carriage bolt through from the back. On the front went a washer then a nut (all liberally coated with dielectric grease, of course), and then the ring connector from my (new) battery ground cable, then a nut. Basically, in installed a ground stud there.
All that to say, I suggest a similar approach with those grounds. Use something like a #10 a machine screw from the backside, etc.
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I replaced mine by drilling out the hole to 5/16", then cleaning to bare metal around it, and threading a 5/16" carriage bolt through from the back. On the front went a washer then a nut (all liberally coated with dielectric grease, of course), and then the ring connector from my (new) battery ground cable, then a nut. Basically, in installed a ground stud there.
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#28
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Yes, dielectric grease, the correct protectant for electrical connections which do not contain aluminum conductors, as any competent engineer can tell you.
As opposed to No-Ox or Oxguard (and the like), which are made for electrical connections which do contain aluminum conductors, and which have exactly the same electrical conductivity as dielectric grease.
As opposed to No-Ox or Oxguard (and the like), which are made for electrical connections which do contain aluminum conductors, and which have exactly the same electrical conductivity as dielectric grease.
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It's good for that, too, but you are missing out on the correct product for your electrical connections.
Read the link in my earlier post. All that, "AH! It's an insulator!" stuff you hear is Internet Ignorance and Old Wives Tales.
Read the link in my earlier post. All that, "AH! It's an insulator!" stuff you hear is Internet Ignorance and Old Wives Tales.