Bogging Out?
12-03-2011, 10:20 AM
#61
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
Think!
Why after so many years and so many miles would it suddenly need the injectors to be wrapped?
Why don't the other millions of 4.0's need it? Why just yours?
When you checked the spark what color was it? How far did it jump? You don't need to test it on all the plugs, at the distributor end of the coil wire is good enough. Color and how far DOES make a difference.
Did it start right after you tested it? When you tested it it may have already gone back to normal.
Swap the coil wire out - another possible.
A leaky injector won't stop it from running - it may misfire, overheat the cat, smell funny, but it will run - the other cylinders still work.
Why after so many years and so many miles would it suddenly need the injectors to be wrapped?
Why don't the other millions of 4.0's need it? Why just yours?
When you checked the spark what color was it? How far did it jump? You don't need to test it on all the plugs, at the distributor end of the coil wire is good enough. Color and how far DOES make a difference.
Did it start right after you tested it? When you tested it it may have already gone back to normal.
Swap the coil wire out - another possible.
A leaky injector won't stop it from running - it may misfire, overheat the cat, smell funny, but it will run - the other cylinders still work.
i just changed the cap rotor plugs and wires the only onther 2 things i can think of is the distributor (which wouldnt make sence cause it only does it when the trucks hot and i turn it off for gass or such and then turn it back on) or its HEAT SOAK (which would make perfect sense to all of my problems
12-03-2011, 01:50 PM
#63
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
12-03-2011, 09:31 PM
#64
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Have you read the codes? That might help..
Rich has a good point. Actually seeing a good sharp blue spark jump 1/2 an inch from the coil wire while it's screwing up should be pretty easy.
I guess since there seems to be no voltage figure to find for a post renix CPS that's no help. The resistance test looks easy enough, might help. I guess the gauges acting screwy is common with a failing CPS, as well as failing when hot. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
Also like was mentioned the 02 seems to be able to cause your symptoms. You're sure you installed the right one, and it's hooked up right? I mean I figure you would have it right, just mine had such similar stuff going on when my wires there messed up.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.
1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
Rich has a good point. Actually seeing a good sharp blue spark jump 1/2 an inch from the coil wire while it's screwing up should be pretty easy.
I guess since there seems to be no voltage figure to find for a post renix CPS that's no help. The resistance test looks easy enough, might help. I guess the gauges acting screwy is common with a failing CPS, as well as failing when hot. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
Also like was mentioned the 02 seems to be able to cause your symptoms. You're sure you installed the right one, and it's hooked up right? I mean I figure you would have it right, just mine had such similar stuff going on when my wires there messed up.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.
1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-03-2011 at 10:45 PM.
12-04-2011, 10:58 AM
#65
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
Have you read the codes? That might help..
Rich has a good point. Actually seeing a good sharp blue spark jump 1/2 an inch from the coil wire while it's screwing up should be pretty easy.
I guess since there seems to be no voltage figure to find for a post renix CPS that's no help. The resistance test looks easy enough, might help. I guess the gauges acting screwy is common with a failing CPS, as well as failing when hot. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
Also like was mentioned the 02 seems to be able to cause your symptoms. You're sure you installed the right one, and it's hooked up right? I mean I figure you would have it right, just mine had such similar stuff going on when my wires there messed up.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.
1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
Rich has a good point. Actually seeing a good sharp blue spark jump 1/2 an inch from the coil wire while it's screwing up should be pretty easy.
I guess since there seems to be no voltage figure to find for a post renix CPS that's no help. The resistance test looks easy enough, might help. I guess the gauges acting screwy is common with a failing CPS, as well as failing when hot. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/testing-cps-5563/
Also like was mentioned the 02 seems to be able to cause your symptoms. You're sure you installed the right one, and it's hooked up right? I mean I figure you would have it right, just mine had such similar stuff going on when my wires there messed up.
1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.
1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)
1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)
1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)
The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
12-06-2011, 07:33 PM
#66
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
the no start condition started happened today and yesterday... i told a buddy of mine it was vapor lock and he said it happened to him before and he to a wrench tapped knocked my injectors a couple of times and it started right up... he said i needed ne injectors... now ive read a little on injector upgrades like dodge neon injectors but i dont know what the Pro's and Con's are about changing to neon injectors...
do i gain or lose gass milage? do i gain or lose horsepower or torque? do i have to upgrade anything else if i do my injectors???
let me know guys
do i gain or lose gass milage? do i gain or lose horsepower or torque? do i have to upgrade anything else if i do my injectors???
let me know guys
12-13-2011, 10:55 PM
#67
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
anything on the injectors guys???
ive heard dodge neon injectors work but i dont know what has to be done or upgraded to run them... also so i gain horsepower or torque??? and do i gain or lose gass mileage?? what should i do about the injectors?
ive heard dodge neon injectors work but i dont know what has to be done or upgraded to run them... also so i gain horsepower or torque??? and do i gain or lose gass mileage?? what should i do about the injectors?
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