Brake issue...
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Mountain View, CA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Brake issue...
I have a couple of questions.
1. I cannot for the life of me get the piston inside the passenger front brake caliper to retract. I've broken a c clamp and the brake tool as well. If you've got anything to try, please throw it at me.
- The driver side was a quick no issue job.
2. The driver side front pad really wasn't worn all that bad, however the passenger side, the inside pad (the side furthest away from the road/side closer to under the Jeep) is completely gone. The other pad was worn too but the driver to passenger side comparison is apples to oranges.
-What could have caused this??
I'm concerned because the piston that won't compress is the same side as the brake pads that were totally gone. (The Jeep wasn't driven at all from the first time I heard the squel/brake nose clip or whatever you call it)
I will upload pics later today. The pads were very high quality pads.
1. I cannot for the life of me get the piston inside the passenger front brake caliper to retract. I've broken a c clamp and the brake tool as well. If you've got anything to try, please throw it at me.
- The driver side was a quick no issue job.
2. The driver side front pad really wasn't worn all that bad, however the passenger side, the inside pad (the side furthest away from the road/side closer to under the Jeep) is completely gone. The other pad was worn too but the driver to passenger side comparison is apples to oranges.
-What could have caused this??
I'm concerned because the piston that won't compress is the same side as the brake pads that were totally gone. (The Jeep wasn't driven at all from the first time I heard the squel/brake nose clip or whatever you call it)
I will upload pics later today. The pads were very high quality pads.
#2
Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 106
Likes: 2
From: Southern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like replacing the caliper is absolutely the way to go.
Two things happening there that I gather from your description:
1) when applying brakes the piston pushes on the worn pad but does not retract, as you have found. This likely caused the pad to drag and wear prematurely.
2) also possible/likely that the sliders are sticking. If so, then the piston side pad does most of the braking increasing it's wear rate.
If the above is correct, the quality of the pads has little or nothing to do with the wear you are seeing.
Two things happening there that I gather from your description:
1) when applying brakes the piston pushes on the worn pad but does not retract, as you have found. This likely caused the pad to drag and wear prematurely.
2) also possible/likely that the sliders are sticking. If so, then the piston side pad does most of the braking increasing it's wear rate.
If the above is correct, the quality of the pads has little or nothing to do with the wear you are seeing.
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,010
Likes: 260
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
x2, sounds like that caliper is not floating around as it should. If it was just the slides I'd say lube them and stick it back in but if the piston is also frozen up then I would think that caliper is in rough shape.
Calipers are relatively cheap. Take your old ones in as cores and replace them both.
Calipers are relatively cheap. Take your old ones in as cores and replace them both.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,208
Likes: 4
From: Ocean County, NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Before completely condemning the caliper, crack the bleeder loose and try compressing the piston again. If the piston retracts, than the rubber brake line has collapsed internally. Replace rubber brake lines on both sides of vehicle. If the piston does not retract than the caliper is shot - replace both front calipers at the same time for even braking
performance.
Also make sure that your caliper slide pins are free. If you cannot push them in and out or you feel resistance they must be removed, cleaned, and properly lubricated otherwise your braking performance will suffer and you'll experience uneven brake pad wear.
performance.
Also make sure that your caliper slide pins are free. If you cannot push them in and out or you feel resistance they must be removed, cleaned, and properly lubricated otherwise your braking performance will suffer and you'll experience uneven brake pad wear.
Last edited by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ; 07-31-2017 at 10:46 AM.
#6
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Mountain View, CA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks gents, I am going to upload the pics of the pads when I get home from work. I'll go with the bleeder valve being opened first. I didn't need to do that on the driver side and I cannot recall having to do that previously when doing my brakes, so I've never actually thought of opening it, as I didn't want to have to bleed the brakes too, although I'll assume I probably should? The problem isn't really that I don't "want" to do anything, I live in a gated community that does not allow work to be done on our vehicles and my townhouse does not have a garage, soo I do the work around 6 15 am just as the light comes up and before the staff who patrols the community gets here at 7:30, so I have to james bond/mcguyver everything within that hour and 15 min time frame. The quicker the things are I have to do, the more likely it is that I can get it all done in that time frame.
Will I need to bleed the brakes if I crack open that bleeder valve to remove any air in the line or just tighten it back up?
I was thinking replacing the caliper would be the better choice, but wasn't sure how difficult or time consuming that would be. I'll do it though, I'll always choose the smarter option over the half *** one.
Will I need to bleed the brakes if I crack open that bleeder valve to remove any air in the line or just tighten it back up?
I was thinking replacing the caliper would be the better choice, but wasn't sure how difficult or time consuming that would be. I'll do it though, I'll always choose the smarter option over the half *** one.
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#8
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Mountain View, CA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It rained all day, still raining actually, so I haven't been able to mess with the Jeep.
How difficult is it to replace the caliper? I have looked up youtube videos and read the manuals, but those videos are edited for time lapse, is this a many hour job? and is this something I can do on my own?
How difficult is it to replace the caliper? I have looked up youtube videos and read the manuals, but those videos are edited for time lapse, is this a many hour job? and is this something I can do on my own?
#9
Sounds like a pretty rough community for owning an XJ. Changing the caliper is pretty quick but messy. I had to check the calipers on my '99 today so just went through the process. Loosen the banjo bolt holding the flex line. there will be a copper washer on each side. Once you remove the bolt, the brake fluid will start flowing. Have the replacement nearby and ready to go in. The replacement should come with new copper washers. Take the banjo bolt out, and remove the upper washer. Put the caliper aside with the hole facing up (so the rest of the brake fluid doesn't go all over your driveway). Put it all back together the same way, with new washers. You will need to bleed it after all this. For your situation with the HOA *****, I would get a mityvac or something similar(). You can definitely do this in an under an hour before the HOA ***** come by. The key will be quick bleeding.
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Replace both hoses and both calipers and be done with it bank drive thrus work great on rainy sundays. Been there done that. Or big parking lots...
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
It rained all day, still raining actually, so I haven't been able to mess with the Jeep.
How difficult is it to replace the caliper? I have looked up youtube videos and read the manuals, but those videos are edited for time lapse, is this a many hour job? and is this something I can do on my own?
How difficult is it to replace the caliper? I have looked up youtube videos and read the manuals, but those videos are edited for time lapse, is this a many hour job? and is this something I can do on my own?
Last edited by freegdr; 08-01-2017 at 02:34 AM.
#12
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Mountain View, CA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So I'm going to have to replace the caliper, at this point it seems like the logical decision because nothing seems to remove the pressure of that piston inside the caliper to retract... From looking at it, it's just the one bolt connecting the brake line/mounting bolt to the caliper... Someone said that replacing the caliper is a difficult job to do, Am I missing something? It's only 1 bolt, what makes the job difficult??
#13
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: Mountain View, CA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thank you for the detailed instructions! Sounds like a good job to learn to do. I'm 32 and have learned to do many things when it comes to working on this Jeep. So I'm always looking forward to knowing how to do something new to add to my repertoire.
I was in Indiana for work a couple years back and my alternator was done, so I learned to do that in 7° weather outside in the snow. That was only difficult due to the cold hands.
-Jessica
I was in Indiana for work a couple years back and my alternator was done, so I learned to do that in 7° weather outside in the snow. That was only difficult due to the cold hands.
-Jessica
Sounds like a pretty rough community for owning an XJ. Changing the caliper is pretty quick but messy. I had to check the calipers on my '99 today so just went through the process. Loosen the banjo bolt holding the flex line. there will be a copper washer on each side. Once you remove the bolt, the brake fluid will start flowing. Have the replacement nearby and ready to go in. The replacement should come with new copper washers. Take the banjo bolt out, and remove the upper washer. Put the caliper aside with the hole facing up (so the rest of the brake fluid doesn't go all over your driveway). Put it all back together the same way, with new washers. You will need to bleed it after all this. For your situation with the HOA *****, I would get a mityvac or something similar(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS...ure-scomp-wm-4). You can definitely do this in an under an hour before the HOA ***** come by. The key will be quick bleeding.
Last edited by doostica; 08-04-2017 at 12:18 PM.
#14
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 60
From: Florida
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Good to hear! yep once one tool breaks i would say screw it and buy a new caliper also VERY wise to get new hoses as well dont want to drag the new calipers lol.
#15
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,806
Likes: 180
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Actually the $10 self bleeder kit works great with 1 person, much much faster. Just crack the bleeder open and stick in the little plastic tube and bottle, then pump a bunch of times, then close the bleeder. Much better than "Pump it up! Hold it" Pump it up! Hold it!