Is swapping out the caliper just the bolt to remove, that connects to the line? I haven't gone to grab my manual from the Jeep to look into it. I'm ordering the caliper tonight, currently trying to decide which to buy... Usually i buy oem mopar from the Chrysler but I cannot afford that right now

 

Which kit are you referring to?
[QUOTE​​QUOTE=97grand4.0;3413492]Actually the $10 self bleeder kit works great with 1 person, much much faster. Just crack the bleeder open and stick in the little plastic tube and bottle, then pump a bunch of times, then close the bleeder. Much better than "Pump it up! Hold it" Pump it up! Hold it![/QUOTE]

 

The Wagner TQM25017 caliper on Amazon, says it's "loaded" what does that mean??

Fits:

• Front Right

Notes:

• Loaded
• Reman.
• Semi-Metallic Pads
• with Phenolic Piston Caliper

 

[/QUOTE]

 

Means it comes with pads .

 

Any caliper is better than a stuck one. Are you also replacing the hose? Could be collapsed ..that could be the whole problem. Open the bleeder and try compressing?

 

Opening the bleeder made no difference other than the fluid started going everywhere. I noticed the darn piston is slightly cockeyed and there's a chunk, albeit a small one missing from one edge of the lip on the piston, didn't even notice that until now, perhaps a rock was stuck? Or could something like that not happen?

Do you mean the whole line or just the hose?

​​​​​​

 

It just dawned on me I have a Porter air compressor still in the box in my garage, would that help me force the piston out? I wouldn't know what to do haha I've got the new Wagner caliper arriving Tuesday $31 no core to return (i have new Wagner ceramic pads I picked up on a lightning deal with an Amazon discount primemonth1 -free $5 and another discount, cost me $7 and change for them) I figured id get the Wagner caliper for a smooth fit... I am still curious as to why the sucker won't budge so if there's a way to use the air compressor throw me any ideas you've got.

 

Did you get enough pressure?? It seems nothing has very good feedback from buyers but for you it worked so obviously I should be able to use this on my XJ thanks



[/QUOTE]

 

LOL this is like brakes, 101. Thats ok dude, we all started somewhere. You are doing the right thing ..sounds like your caliper is shot. No point rebuilding it, just order the one you have coming.
Way I usually compress them, _*except rear calipers on new cars are sometimes screw in to reset the parking brake_is just take one pad out of the caliper and put the caliper back on the rotor without 1 pad. Then being careful not to damage the rotor, slip a screwdriver in the opening and slowly pry it back in. A;so have found the claw of a hammer works good here. U take the caliper off put the old pads in and stick the hammer in sideways then use it as a lever to slowly push the piston in. Be sure to take the cover off the master first to allow the fluid to come back into the master. If you skipped that step and got your clamp on sideways you may have jammed it, but is quite possible it overheated and stuck on its own. If that is the case I recommend a new rubber hose as it may have also been compromised by extreme heat. Might be able to unjam it prying on the other side but I would just use your new one. No superman strength here Just even steady light to moderate pressure and it should slowly go back in.

The bleeder kit is the best thing I ever discovered and am only sorry took me 30 years to find it. You dont need a lot of pressure to bleed brakes, in fact the only pressure you will feel is if the bleeder is closed, which is not bleeding the brakes. You only need enough to move the fluid through the lines. Object is to get new clear fluid from the reservoir all the way through. This takes multiple pushes from the brake pedal, like maybe 5-7 if that many. So with the bleeder, you fill the little bottle with just enough new fluid to cover bottom of the tube sticking down in the bottle. Then open the bleeder a turn or two, stick the black nipple thingy into the bleeder screw, and go sit in the driver seat and slowly give the pedal about 3 good pumps. You do not close the screw at any time. The fluid collecting in the bottle then prevents any air from getting in when you let your foot off the brake and pump it again. Check the bottle and empty it if it is overflowing, make sure your master cylinder doesn't run dry, and when you see all clear fluid in the bottle you are done, just close the screw and move on to the next wheel.

 

I've changed my brakes many times and bled the brakes before always with 2 people doing the old school way taught to me by my grandfather. My community is a bunch of uppity snot bags therefore getting things done; as i mentioned earlier has to be done James Bond style in the cover of darkness. I was cited by them last year when I first moved in blah blah blah so doing the 1 person method I'm all about giving a shot, not to mention I don't really know my neighbors well enough to ask them to help me bend the rules, someone let them know when I was out doing things last year so I haven't a clue who I can trust to help me. I'll give the kit mentioned above a shot.
The piston will not move, as mentioned above and The first thing I tried when I couldn't get the thing to compress like it should've initially with the old pad, was go with the pry bar method... It didn't budge. Not a millimeter. Then I broke a C Clamp, a brake tool and i cracked the old brake pad backing plate with a big *** breaker bar trying to do the method you pretty much mentioned.

Anywho... Thanks for all the help and advice.

-Jessica

 

Ay yes, many a rental tool have I seen with the handle bent off the C clamp.
You must know by now that was too much force. Good luck.

 

Within the next hour, I am finally about to replace the caliper and the brake line/hose is there anything I need to remember or know in advance that I could easily forget?

The new caliper has a blue plastic piece in the middle of it, where the hose connects to it, Should I remove that and go ahead and put the new line in it now, before I connect it to the Jeep or is does that matter?

Also when I disconnect the old hose from the body of the Jeep will fluid go everywhere, and how can I go about minimizing or reducing the amount that leaks out?
(sorry I've never had to do this before)

Is there a proper order I should go by when doing this?

I will begin this in about an hour when most of the staff has gone home for the evening, and hopefully I won't have too much of a hard time getting this done before one of my neighbors calls the front desk afterhours (our staff always has 2 people on call 24 hours a day) to give me hell for doing work on my vehicle here.

Please let me know if there is anything I need to remember to do, or not to do, as I've never had to replace a caliper before, or a line/hose.

Thanks!

1 other thing; here are the photos side photos of the brake pads new vs old (they are the ones missing pads entirely) and the driver side which aren't so bad at all.







Jessica
Passenger side<br/><br/>

Drivers side, still plenty of pad left

 

Yeah classic inboard pad right to the metal while the outboard is still meaty, ...sign of a stuck caliper. Replace the rotor! Then mount the caliper, then remove the old hose and mount it, screw into the metal line fitting, then bolt to the caliper. Don't overlook the 2 little copper rings that go either side of the special "banjo bolt". These seal the assembly. Use the new ones, but if you loose one the old ones might work.

Now open the new bleeder, take the top off the master cylinder, and put your bleeder bottle on the bleeder. Use the magnet to hold the bottle somewhere down there and give it about 4 or 5 pumps. You should be getting fluid pretty soon, Keep pumping until its clear every time. Then close the bleeder, then take the bleeder bottle off. Lather rinse repeat the other wheels if you are bleeding them but be careful, the bleeders will be much more stuck, maybe heat them first. Don;t want to break them, little propane heat does wonders...then sharp lil taps on the 6 point ratchet to break em free Keep checking the master and adding more fluid, you dont want to let it go dry or youll have to start all over.

Pick up some silver Anti-Seize..permatex..in a small brush bottle..apply everywhere the pads ride on the spindle and to the back of the inboard pad where it hits the caliper piston..

While you're in there you should check the spindle where the pads ride, this setup is notorious for wearing a groove that the pad ears get stuck in.

 

Man, Thanks for that detailed how to!

I can't for the life of me get the top guide pin to tighten; both (top or bottom one) go into the support bracket and tighten up without issues, However when once I put the caliper back on and put the guide pin through and pin boot, it will not tighten up inside the support bracket........ again If I take the caliper off altogether and just insert the guide pin into the support bracket it tightens up without a hitch.


Apparently whomever had the jeep before me 4 yrs ago mustve tried to replace the brake hose, or did so and rounded the bolt off so I cannot get it to loosen, so for now, the old one has to stay on. I'll figure out how the heck I am going to get that one fixed asap but for now, I am left with it on. I don't even know that it needs replaced, but I will replace it as well.

sigh.
sigh.

I need a beer.