Brake lights not working
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 21
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From: Surfside Beach, SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Brake lights not working
I have a 1994 XJ 4.0. The other day I got stopped by a friendly cop who told me that all 3 brake lights were out. I started researching and figured it was my brake light switch. I replaced it with a new one but that didnt fix my problem. I can't find my specific fuse because there are a few fuse boxes that I found that don't match up to mine. Is there a connector towards the rear that would cause my brake lights not to work? If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate because Id like to have brake lights.
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
There may be a maxi-fuse under the hood that protects the brake light circuit. My '87 and '92 did not have the third brake light, so my Jeeps are probably not exactly like yours.
You may have a bad ground somewhere that is in the dedicated brake light circuit.
You may have a bad ground somewhere that is in the dedicated brake light circuit.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 11-30-2015 at 01:24 PM.
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,734
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Surfside Beach, SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#6
There is a Molex connector behind the driver's side rear quarter panel that attaches the rear harness to the main harness. That connector is prone to corrosion due to moisture. It's unlikely that a problem there would affect just your brake lights but back tracing from there to the fuse panel/switch is the easiest way to locate your problem. I didn't say it was easy, just easier. Welcome to electrical troubleshooting.
#7
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
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From: Surfside Beach, SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is a Molex connector behind the driver's side rear quarter panel that attaches the rear harness to the main harness. That connector is prone to corrosion due to moisture. It's unlikely that a problem there would affect just your brake lights but back tracing from there to the fuse panel/switch is the easiest way to locate your problem. I didn't say it was easy, just easier. Welcome to electrical troubleshooting.
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#8
I had the exact same problem. It turned out that the third brake wire was shorting out at the hatch, where the wires break from repeated movement. That would pop the fuse and kill all three lights. So you might look there.
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#9
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 30
From: Detroit, Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is a Molex connector behind the driver's side rear quarter panel that attaches the rear harness to the main harness. That connector is prone to corrosion due to moisture. It's unlikely that a problem there would affect just your brake lights but back tracing from there to the fuse panel/switch is the easiest way to locate your problem. I didn't say it was easy, just easier. Welcome to electrical troubleshooting.
There's a whole plastic junction there. All your rear electric wires thru plugs. Easy place to test. Might want to buy a can of electronics cleaner before you even open it. Might be your issue. He's right about it at least being a place to start. If no juice back that far, 20 mins well invested in diagnosing it.
#10
I live in Michigan. My drivers rear quarter rusted a hole in it... ALL the mud and road grime just funneled up into that area. All my lights started acting funny. You have to take off your spare. Unborn the 4 bolts for the spare carrier. Undo about 6 screws to pull forward that whole plastic piece in the back. Takes about 10 mins.
There's a whole plastic junction there. All your rear electric wires thru plugs. Easy place to test. Might want to buy a can of electronics cleaner before you even open it. Might be your issue. He's right about it at least being a place to start. If no juice back that far, 20 mins well invested in diagnosing it.
There's a whole plastic junction there. All your rear electric wires thru plugs. Easy place to test. Might want to buy a can of electronics cleaner before you even open it. Might be your issue. He's right about it at least being a place to start. If no juice back that far, 20 mins well invested in diagnosing it.
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 30
From: Detroit, Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I actually used a bug sprayer with soapy water to flush out 5 pounds of mud. Then filled it with house insulation foam on an aluminum base. Total redneck fix.
#12
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 21
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From: Surfside Beach, SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I live in Michigan. My drivers rear quarter rusted a hole in it... ALL the mud and road grime just funneled up into that area. All my lights started acting funny. You have to take off your spare. Unborn the 4 bolts for the spare carrier. Undo about 6 screws to pull forward that whole plastic piece in the back. Takes about 10 mins.
There's a whole plastic junction there. All your rear electric wires thru plugs. Easy place to test. Might want to buy a can of electronics cleaner before you even open it. Might be your issue. He's right about it at least being a place to start. If no juice back that far, 20 mins well invested in diagnosing it.
There's a whole plastic junction there. All your rear electric wires thru plugs. Easy place to test. Might want to buy a can of electronics cleaner before you even open it. Might be your issue. He's right about it at least being a place to start. If no juice back that far, 20 mins well invested in diagnosing it.
#13
Right where the wires pass from the body to the hatch. There's a rubber boot between the two. You can either try to pull the rubber tube out ( I couldn't manage to) or cut it open and look at the wire. There's likely to be a decent amount of cracking. My XJ is a '99, not sure what differences there may be.
#14
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 21
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From: Surfside Beach, SC
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Right where the wires pass from the body to the hatch. There's a rubber boot between the two. You can either try to pull the rubber tube out ( I couldn't manage to) or cut it open and look at the wire. There's likely to be a decent amount of cracking. My XJ is a '99, not sure what differences there may be.