I know I've been probably getting annoying with these questions..

I re-did the rear brake lines for my disc conversion. I just need some approval. This was my first go:



I got it 'done' last night, and I am sure everyone sees the obvious problem. I routed the line UNDER the axle/leaf spring... big no no. So I redid it like this:





Slipped some hose to protect any potential 'slight rub' spots. No tight spots. Looks like plenty of slack in the soft-line for removing the caliper. Doesn't seem to interfere with the e-brake cable. Sweet!

What do you all think? Also, I accidentally rubbed some paint off of the hard-lines... is there a big risk for rust eating through the line?

As far as the axles, I have the driver's side axle shaft out. When I pulled the pinion shaft out, the opening to the axle shaft ends where the c-clips fall is pointed up slightly. I think I can get my fingers around though so I don't turn the assembly and make gears fall out. Is putting the axle back in as simple as guiding it in the tube, lining up the splines, and pushing it all the way in? Is there a risk bumping something and making the gears fall out doing this? Once the shaft is pushed in and I can 'feel' it through the carrier assembly, do I just push the c-clip in the groove? Is there any particular way the c-clip has to be facing?

Thanks all for the help.

 

Your bleeders are at the bottom facing down? You wont be able to bleed them like that.. i'd recommend swapping the calipers to opposite sides. Route the soft lines behind the axle tube and up to the hard lines.

To reinstall the c-clip push the shaft all the way in, slip into groove and pull shaft back out to seat it. Repeat on other side and slip the pin back in and reinstall retaining bolt.

 

Big thanks for the response! It might be because I have to rotate my phone pics in windows, but the bleeder is at the top. Soft line has enough play for caliper removal.

With that said and verifying correct caliper orientation, is my routing bad?

Thanks again!

 

If it's just a mall princess you'll be fine. If you plan to drive it off the street, I would install the hard line out of harms way on the chassis. Then run a flex line down to the axle, followed by hard lines tucked on top of the axle tubes to the calipers.

 

... mall princess... that hurts man

It's more our blizzard duty, hauler, SUV-use vehicle. I plan to lightly wheel it later on in which case I am going to replace all soft-lines with braided steel lines and replace the line in question with a shorter one to tuck on top of the axle.

I got the e-brake figured out. What do ya'll think?

 

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I just went thru this same deal with my 8.8 swap all of my soft lines are behind the axle hard line is run in the stock holders. My E brake cables are attached with adel clamps and stock brackets where needed.

 

Does anyone know what thread the dana 35 u bolts are? I need to get an extra nut to hold down the soft line bracket. Cannot find this thread anywhere!

 

Also, dumb question but if I need to rotate the axle shaft to line up the splines and rotate the gear It sits in, will the spiders fall out?

 

Ok, so got the axle shafts back in. Took a bit of patience to fish vertically to get the c-clips in, but with the help of Super Wife got the c-clips in and seated when she pulled on the axles. Pinion shaft went in like butter as did the pinion shaft bolt. I snugged up that bolt good; not gorilla strength but not sissy strength. Nice and tight.

I would still be super grateful for the thread numbers on the Dana 35 u-bolts. I just need to know what nut to get for the driver's side bracket.

If anyone is interested, pics loaded into my build thread (after dinner of course lol). Added some redneck reinforcement to the hard-lines and what not. Damn hard line snapped on passenger side... oh well. Will be fixing hopefully tomorrow or tuesday! Also, the passenger side e-brake cable is seized as I feared. It won't retract on its own. Sadness.

 

I hope you used alittle blue lock tite on the diff. pin retaining bolt. I bought a new one when I went into my D35. I always use a new bolt on diff pins .
That's one item that can ruin your day if it happens to come out.

 

I did not put blue loc-tite on it but I do have some. I gotta pull the cover again anyway to properly clean it and actually apply gasket material (it's just been sitting for now loosely bolted back on with a thin film of gear oil left over everything). I'll go ahead and pull it again to add some loc-tite. If I could get the bolt at Autozone I would go ahead and replace but I gotta get this thing up and running. Do these things just need snugged? Obviously a torque wrench isn't gonna fit in there. I just got it nice and tight.

Also, dumb question, but will the axle shafts and retaining shaft only go back in properly if the c-clips were installed correctly? I don't know why, but I have the tiniest fear that I somehow didn't seat the c-clips all the way (even though I felt around it and made sure it was on!). The axles went back in no problem and the retaining pin and bolt went in fine as well. If I had messed up, would they not have gone back in?

Lastly, If I were to cut the e-brake cable and pull it out, does the cable portion slide right out of the sheathed portion? Thanks!

 

To the top. Gonna finish this up hopefully on Friday/Saturday. Cannot wait to feel the new brakes!