Brake Lines on a RHD w/ABS
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4 Litre
Brake Lines on a RHD w/ABS
Hi all, my XJ is going to fail its MOT for rotten brake lines, looking at pre-formed kits online non of them list compatibility for a RHD with ABS, and as the master cylinder is on the opposite side of the car I'm not sure if they will be the same as a LHD. looking at pictures online, the abs pump looks to be in the same place as a LHD, which is all that should really matter as the ones between master cylinder and ABS pump are solid. Anyone able to confirm my suspicion before I spend £££? Cheers
#3
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
I think if you find pre-bent lines, they're going to be expensive. I would recommend either buying a roll of Nickel-Copper line and a bunch of fitting, or measure and buy lines with the fittings already on them. The nickel-copper stuff bends much easier than steel and is more corrosion resistance. Practice a few times with a flaring kit until you get the hang of it.
#4
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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You can also have a brake shop make you a new line, fit & bleed to if you dont want to do that bit yourself.
CN is the way to go, as its easy to make it a tiny bit long and bend a hump for exact fit
CN is the way to go, as its easy to make it a tiny bit long and bend a hump for exact fit
#5
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I did all my lines with standard purchased sections and couplings. No messing around with flaring and making sure they don’t leak. I used Nicopp, easy to form with fingers.
I never tried it, but it seems like trying to fish pre-formed lines into place would be more difficult.
I never tried it, but it seems like trying to fish pre-formed lines into place would be more difficult.
#6
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Check out the online parts guide
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/2000...kee-parts.html
Fill in any remaining details (engine, trans. RHD). Go to the Service Brakes section. You can then lookup parts numbers and compare RHD vs LHD. Also search on the part number to see if you can find an aftermarket.
I looked at a few kits but they are for non-abs systems (Chrysler rear). Perhaps they may have enough lines to fix the really bad ones.
Of course, the ones I saw are all in the US (Jegs, Summit). Not sure about international shipping and VAT..
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/2000...kee-parts.html
Fill in any remaining details (engine, trans. RHD). Go to the Service Brakes section. You can then lookup parts numbers and compare RHD vs LHD. Also search on the part number to see if you can find an aftermarket.
I looked at a few kits but they are for non-abs systems (Chrysler rear). Perhaps they may have enough lines to fix the really bad ones.
Of course, the ones I saw are all in the US (Jegs, Summit). Not sure about international shipping and VAT..
#7
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Only once in my life have a bought (& fitted) a kit, it wasn't a particularly illuminating experience, but back then it was really the only way of getting cupronickel pipes.
The American obsession with part numbers won't help - because we've got no one to quote them to.
What I've always done is remove the pipe to be replaced & taken it to my local parts shop to produce a replica - but that's not so easy now, as those sort of places hardly exist anymore, so I'd go with lawsoncl's idea, speshly as you talking about replacing all of them. If you've not done it before (a) don't buy a cheap flaring tool & (b) be prepared to spend sometime (& waste a couple of feet of pipe) practicing flares.
Whether you d-i-y, or get a shop to do it, save all the old unions because they're hard to come by here (although I've not tried any American Car Parts Specialists)
The American obsession with part numbers won't help - because we've got no one to quote them to.
What I've always done is remove the pipe to be replaced & taken it to my local parts shop to produce a replica - but that's not so easy now, as those sort of places hardly exist anymore, so I'd go with lawsoncl's idea, speshly as you talking about replacing all of them. If you've not done it before (a) don't buy a cheap flaring tool & (b) be prepared to spend sometime (& waste a couple of feet of pipe) practicing flares.
Whether you d-i-y, or get a shop to do it, save all the old unions because they're hard to come by here (although I've not tried any American Car Parts Specialists)
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