jmrec100

I have similar issue as in a previous thread (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bra...3/#post3679228) Since it was an older post, I'll start this here.
Here's my similar situation. I have a 1994 Cherokee. The smaller reservoir, front, is almost empty. Is that the rear brakes? I did a rear drum brake job and it all looked ok. I was going to replace them in the near future being an old Jeep. Most likely original parts. .I saw no leaks. My Jeep sat a bit. Had new engine mounts done. Then went to drive it, the pedal went nearly to the floor. Was able to stop - sort of. I suspect, bad REAR wheel cylinders. Most likely the rear if the smaller reservoir goes to the rear.
Is the smaller reservoir towards the front of the Jeep for the rear brakes?

The brake fluid looked rather blackish. What is the best way to drain and purge the lines. I can use a turkey baster and empty each side of the reservoir. Then could fill it and open the wheel cylinders one at a time and flush thru it? Is that a good plan? Appreciate the forum and everyone on it. I'll be more active now that some 'life ' issues mostly settled.


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Seems a window must be open and all my cash flew out

Old Man Minimalist

I went through a brake fluid flush, fill and bleed recently. I was going to do the turkey baster thing, but my MC was so contaminated that I ended up removing it and the proportioning valve, disassembling them, cleaning them thoroughly and while they were off the vehicle I disconnected the brake lines at the end points and blew compressed air through the lines to get rid of as much junk as I could.

It still took a quart of fluid before I was clean at all four corners.

You may be able to remove what you can from the MC and bleed it enough to get it clean. Just keep the MC full during the bleed so you don't keep introducing air into the lines.

jmrec100

Didn't think of using compressed air. .Thanks, I may do that. I found the leak is at the rear Driver's wheel. It's a `leak in the brake line somewhere above the rear end, not at the wheel itself. This weekend I'll fix it. Then purge the brake lines.

cruiser54

Baster works fine.
This makes it easy.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

jmrec100

Good Suggestion on the HF tool. I actually just found an old tool similar I had from 10 plus years ago.

cruiser54

If you have compressed air, it's a life saver.

jmrec100

Found the leak. Sorry about terrible picture. Tight in my really small apartment garage.
The leak is in line that runs from the driver side of the rear end to the Passenger Rear Brake. Looks like the leak is about an inch from the connecting block (Figure 1). Is that brake line one continuous line?. When I look for parts, I see only short lines with the block at one end and the connector at other.(Figure 2)
Is it a continuous one piece brake line? Or am I not seeing the the intermediate junction..
Do I need to make my own brake line with connectors. If so, should I section that existing brake line, use a union and install the needed end connectors. Or make one continuous line and bend as was original.?
When I first saw the line it was pressed heavy against the rear end. I'm thinking it flexed until it cracked?
Can't tell the tube size. Is it 3/16" ?



This is mounted on top of the rear end, driver's side.

Image from AutoZone. Similar to what I found at RockAuto

jmrec100

I found bulk sized brake lines at RockAuto.. I'll have to measure the outside diameter. I don't know what the fitting sizes are. I'm thinking might be 'easier" to section the brake line with union connector. Any info would be appreciated. I need to get my Jeep back on the road asap.

cruiser54

So, the leak is at/on a metal brake line?

If so, take it off and down to the parts store.

IJM

There's one hard line that runs from the master cylinder all the way back to the frame rail near the rear axle. Form there there's that flexible rubber line with the junction block on the end you posted a picture of that connects to two separate hard lines that run along the rear axle to each rear brake cylinder.

cruiser54

Yup. Remove the bad one and go to the parts store. I'd replace the rubber one while you're at it.

jmrec100

I'm thinking for a quick fix to use a union and loop a line to a new connector at the junction block. Then in a couple weeks be able to do a complete job replacing the junction box as I work on the other work including steering box work, suspension work, etc
There is so much grease from the leak that I couldn't see how that junction is removed. I'm guessing its a screw on top as in Figure 2. Is that a hex , phillips, or ? screw head
Most of my tools are in storage so limited major work.

I need the Jeep asap.

IJM

The two metal lines coming off the sides of the junction block are your standard flare nuts, so use a flare nut wrench on those. Mine came off easy, FWIW. The top one is just the rear diff vent, and that just just unscrews with a wrench on it.

jmrec100

Thanks. That helps a lot. The flare nut to the hard metal line turns easy to remove. What is the fitting at the Passenger rear wheel cylinder. If I decide to do the entire metal line replacement, I'll need the end connections.
I will be going to auto parts tomorrow morning to see if I can finish this off same day. I'll do the tool loan for flaring tool . Mine is buried in storage,

IJM

The wheel cylinder fittings use flare nuts as well.