Brake pedal goes to the floor
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Brake pedal goes to the floor
Hopefully someone can tell me something. It started around 2 weeks ago. I went to stop and the pedal started to feel squishy. I thought i was low on fluid. I checked the fluid and that was full, so I checked the brakes themselves. I replaced the front ones first being they only had 25% life left, I also bleed the front brakes until the old fluid was gone then refilled with new. The pedal was a little better, not to what it was when I first bought it.Then I replaced the rear shoes but I haven't bleed the rear system but the pedal hasn't gotten any better. There doesn't appear to be any leaks in the brake system so if anyone has a clue please tell me. Thank you in advance, Nick.
#2
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada
Year: Sold my 1991 to go to school for 2 years.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Try bleeding the rears first but if you have no leaks (check it over really well) and your pedal stiil feels squishy/ goes to the floor if you hold it for a while, its probably your master cylinder.
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 0
From: Eugene, OR
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
bleed the entire system starting with the furthest away from the master cylinder, sounds like air in the lines. also, check the real wheel cylinders, sometimes they can leak, or in some cases completely blow up.
#6
I agree, most likely the master cylinder. Wheel cylinders & calipers will show signs of fluid leakage if they are the cause. Master cylinder losses pressure from within from a worn seal or cylinder bore allowing the pedal to go to the floor without external fluid leakage.
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 98
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
do what is mentioned above by starting at the furthest from the master. so start with the pass rear, then driver rear, pass front, driver front. making sure you keep the reservoir full.
if it still feels the same, check your flex lines.
but if you bled the master dry, you may have to remove it and bench bleed that first, then bleed the whole system from the furthest away....
if it still feels the same, check your flex lines.
but if you bled the master dry, you may have to remove it and bench bleed that first, then bleed the whole system from the furthest away....
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