Hi all. I'm a total newb to Cherokees but not to turning a wrench.

'95 xj sport with stock wheels/tires/ brakes. Not sure about the rotors. They don't look stock.

The brake pedal pumps/pulsates, whatever you want to call it. Doesn't do it all the time though. I was in the mountains a few weeks ago and it seemed to get worse with all the downhill braking, as in when the brakes/rotors/fluid heated up. This isnt my daily driver so its Hard to get consistant info out of the thing, but I'm going to spend the next couple weeksxtrying to figure it put.

Ok, so I pulled the wheels, re-secured the rotors and checked the rotors for warp. I have like .001 to maybe barely .002 on both sides, so I'm thinking I'm ok there, right?

What is odd is that if I wiggle the rotors top to bottom, I get exactly .005 on both sides. Maybe more if I was move the dial indicator to the top very top of the rotor. Should I replace the hub and/or bearing? I dont think that has anything to do with the pedal pulsating, but figured I'd throw it out there as long I'm kinda on the subject.

So I do have a little wear on the metal that the calipers bolt to but would this cause pulsating? I could see maybe if it was pulsating all the time but it isnt.

So thats where I'm at. Could this be an ABS thing? The wheel bearing play? Upper and lower ball joints are tight. Brake fluid looks brand new.

Dont know where to go next. Any thoughts would totally be appreciated.

 

Rotor

 

Ok, so I figure as long as I'm torn down I'll pull the axles and replace the u-joints, which look original and have a wee bit play in them. Pull the rotor, the axle nut, the 3 12 point bolts on the back. The hub wont come off. I put my puller on the hub/end of axle, still wont come off. Is the bearing just stuck in the knuckle. I had my 1/2" impact on it and it wont budge.

 

My method for breaking loose the hub from steering knuckle is as follows; Install one of the 12-point bolts and stop about 1/4" before snug, place deep socket on 12-point, then turn steering wheel. Once socket contacts u-joint, force of turning steering wheel will pop loose the hub. May need to repeat this process for front and rear 12-point.

 

Yeah, I saw that trick after I posted. I ended up Drenching it all with WD, crankin the **** out of my puller, then beatin on the flange with my sledge. It came off. Thx Steve

 

Those wear marks on the 'pad slides' can cause sticking brakes. If the depressions have an edge on the sides, that edge can prevent the pads from releasing. Since they do not look too worn down, use a file to smooth out the edges of depressions. When it gets bad, guys will weld in some filler and grind it back flush.
When reinstalling axle shafts be very careful. Support axle shaft with both hands to prevent splines from dragging on bottom of axle tube. Try to keep the splines centered in axle tube, especially as it nears the inner seal. If the inner seal gets damaged or debris in it, gear oil will leak out tubes. It is a very involved process to replace those inner seals. They are located on both sides of pumpkin, just inboard of each axle tube.

 

One other thing to check is the condition of all the brake hose's, they could be expanding and closing when brakes are applied.

I had an S-10 Blazer that happened on of course it was the last part replaced on it I had installed new brakes

 

I'll check those. The extended lines going to the calipers are braided stainless, that I know. Thx

 

Do you have ABS ? Usually hoses or rear brakes is felt in brake pedal.

 

All my lines are that stainless braided and the guy I bought it from did them within the last year or so. I'll be checking the rear after I get the front back together.

I dont see any sensors going to any wheel and my axles dont have that big spline gear thing. 2 lines into the prop valve and 3 out, 2 to the front and 1 goes back to the rear. So maybe I dont have ABS?

I pulled the rear. The drums are about 1/16th" from max inside diameter and one shoe has a crack in it so I'm going to replace the shoes and drums. Odd that the bigger shoe was mounted in the rear. Supposed to be on the front, right? Still dont see any indication of why I have pedal pump but we shall see.