Brake problem.
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Brake problem.
My brakes are very very squishy. Sometimes I have to throw it to the floor even to stop in town. The brake light used to go on and off but now it's staying on. New front pads, and I've bleed the brakes more than a couple of times and added fluid but still sucky. What about brake booster? Could that be going out?
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Originally Posted by Red82
Not to sound like your retarded buy have you checked to make sure you still have fluid? You could have a leak somewhere.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Originally Posted by bassboost
Brake master cylinder or possibly booster. I'd bet on master cylinder.
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Master cylinder - connects to the booster, with the lines coming out
of it. Also has the brake fluid reservoir on it.
Do a search on any parts store site for each and it should show you
the difference.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Originally Posted by freegdr
Ever adjust up rears ?
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There's a sensor in the master cylinder I believe? Anyone can correct me if I'm wrong there, not 100% I'm still leaning towards the master cylinder being bad.
The fluid is full, it's not leaking anywhere, new brake components, been bled numerous times. With all of these things being checked and/or corrected, next step for repair is the master cylinder.
I've had them fail on numerous vehicles, and that's one of the symptoms for it. Squishy brakes, not building pressure when brake pedal is applied.
The fluid is full, it's not leaking anywhere, new brake components, been bled numerous times. With all of these things being checked and/or corrected, next step for repair is the master cylinder.
I've had them fail on numerous vehicles, and that's one of the symptoms for it. Squishy brakes, not building pressure when brake pedal is applied.
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Year: 88
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 renix
the "brake" sensor is on the proportioning valve.
It will light up if the is a major differance in pressure from front to rear. The valve will shuttle from front to back (and vice versa) depending on pressure differantial.(been pretty much standard since the introduction of dual circuit brake systems in the 60's) dont quote me on the date..just know it was long before my time!
check the rear brakes for adjustment, or even crawl under there and see if the drums are "wet" from brake fluid(indicating a blown wheel cyl)
the main purpose of a dual brake system is it allows one "system" to completly fail, while still providing a measure of braking for emergancy braking.
that being said, if the rear was WAY out of adjustment, broken shoe, blown wheel cyl..ect. the front brakes can still provid SOME braking.
If you bleed the front, and the brake lines are not swelled, then take a long look at the rears.
hope this helps.
It will light up if the is a major differance in pressure from front to rear. The valve will shuttle from front to back (and vice versa) depending on pressure differantial.(been pretty much standard since the introduction of dual circuit brake systems in the 60's) dont quote me on the date..just know it was long before my time!
check the rear brakes for adjustment, or even crawl under there and see if the drums are "wet" from brake fluid(indicating a blown wheel cyl)
the main purpose of a dual brake system is it allows one "system" to completly fail, while still providing a measure of braking for emergancy braking.
that being said, if the rear was WAY out of adjustment, broken shoe, blown wheel cyl..ect. the front brakes can still provid SOME braking.
If you bleed the front, and the brake lines are not swelled, then take a long look at the rears.
hope this helps.