Hey guys. I have a '91 XJ Limited I bought like 4-5 months ago and I've been having brake issues ever since.

Problem is that it seems like when I'm depressing the brake pedal all the way there simply is NOT enough braking power. I've almost gotten into a couple of accidents, were it not for me pulling off to the side of the road (both times on the freeway).

It seems like the brakes don't really start working until the pedal is depressed like 40-50%; is this normal? Then when your foot is depressed all the way and you're going like 40 mph, it seems like it takes FOREVER to stop.

Also, it's virtually impossible to make the tires screech at all on dry pavement. Even if you apply the brakes all the way VERY quick. And it takes a decent amount of effort to make the tires slide on a wet day, even. Oh, and I'm sure I don't have ABS -- it's not like the brakes pulsate when I'm doing this. I have had multiple cars with ABS.

Maybe I'm just spoiled driving my wife's 2004 Volkswagen Passat that can stop on a dime compared to my XJ. But does this sound normal at all to you guys?

Oh and another couple things I should add - It's got the 4.0L HO motor and an automatic transmission. I have also checked the brake fluid reservoir for proper fluid levels and I JUST replaced the rear brake shoes (and also bought a drum brake hardware kit for the springs, etc..) and they are properly adjusted (shoes had NO meat on them at all, but weren't grinding) - this helped a little but it still just seems like the brakes aren't sufficient. Also the front pads look like they were replaced pretty recently.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Your brakes are not right! Front pads are cheaper than crashing. Put on a new set up front, confirm the rotors are still useable (not too thin, no deep grooves) scuff up the rotors with 220 grit sand paper, check that the caliper are not stuck, lube the pins and sliders with caliper lube and flush/bleed the old fluid.
Good luck!

 

you should do the dual diaphragm upgrade.
easy and 10x the braking power/feel.

 

Ok, so even if you don't feel the pulsating of the abs, that doesn't mean you don't have it. The problem with the Xj abs was that the relay for the pump would go out and it would either always be on or off. So if yours is the latter, you will have sucky brake pressure and no abs. If it's the first one, you would have known by now, because it would have blown up. So check if you have abs by looking at the master cylinder. If it has a big mess of brake lines, it has abs. But if it's just two lines coming off of the MC, then you don't.
is that the same as he Wj conversion? I did the Wj conversion and I love it. If you want to do it look in the wriggle section. All together it cost me about $130 and I didn't have any of the tools to do it either.

Sent using CherokeeFM

 

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...des/index.html cost about 60 dollars total

 

I could be wrong and just use to later model jeeps but check to see your wheel cylinders. I've seen several jeeps post 95s that had fluid in the system but bad cylinders and it caused a leak in the vacuum system. Car was able to stop through front breaks an alot of pressing of break but pre 94s and non dual booters, incurs be wrong but j hope you can fix your problem

 

when i did my booster upgrade, i just used a dual diaphragm booster/master/proportioning valve from a 99 cherokee as i was still using drum brakes on my d44.
but yeah, the wj booster/master is essentially the same, just a different proportioning valve for the rear disc brakes.

best (and cheapest) upgrade i've done. cost me about 30 bux total. i got the booster/master/prop valve all bolted together from a junkyard. just had to make one short brake line and a bit of reaming and grinding to make it all work.

do this and you should be golden.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. Today I'm at work for the day and won't be able to take a look at my XJ or work on it until after work tomorrow -- I DID drive it ~25 miles to work today and I noticed it does stop a lot better when the brakes actually start applying pressure on the discs/rotors. Obviously due to me replacing the rear brake shoes. But the original problem still stands. I'm thinking I might go to the JY and grab some parts from a Grand Cherokee.

 

I've still got rear brake drums as well, but on my Chrysler 8.25", should I grab booster/master/valve from a 99 cherokee like you did, or grab parts from a wj?

 

First, your XJ will NEVER stop as fast as the VW. Unless there is a wall involved. Vehicle itself is nearly 2x as heavy and the 1 tire is almost the same weight a all 4 on the VW, more rolling resistance. Second XJ brakes are weak.

If the pads and shoes are good, do a flush a bleed of the fluid. My bet is that the fluid has never been changed, which makes it about 19 years overdue. Next do the booster upgrade and the upgrade to disc in the rear.

 

Well you can keep your valve and just get a new wj booster and master. Idk what people like better, but you have to do a tiny bit of modification to get the wj one to fit.

Sent using CherokeeFM

 

sure ben, just unbolt the whole unit as one. the prop valve body is bolted to the booster.
you will have to divorce that and install it where your stock prop body is located. then you need to get at least the one brake line replaced as it has a double flare on one end and a bubble flare on the other.
the other line (rear) i just bent by hand as they are located on the opposite side of the prop body than the original one. the lines get kinda short.

then you can either step the booster with spacers between the booster and the fire wall, or swap out the pedal rods. or simply just get used to the higher brake pedal like i did. but you will have to drill/ream out the bolt hole on the end of the pedal rod to fit your original brake switch bushing. but you will also have to cut/grind the round end flat so the brake switch can be installed. (there are a lot of write ups with pics available on the inter web).

then bleed up the system, and that's it, you will then be able to stop almost as well as you can in your dub.

 

this may sound kind of stupid but i had this problem as well but check your auto adjuster on the rear drums it may be screwed in to far which gives no breaking pressure or very little but really they are being applied but there not far enough out so pull your drum off and adjust it out if the pads are adjusted correctly the drum should slide on and feel like its tight going on and bleeding the lines never hurt anything either