Hello,

This is my first post on this forum so I want to thank everyone ahead of time for the assistance. My question has to do with the front brakes of my 2000 Jeep Cherokee sport 4wd. I know this topic has been gone over before but I used the search function and could not find answers to some of my specific questions.

I want to service the front disc brakes on my Cherokee (new pads and rotors) as I believe the rotors are warped and it appears to be time for new pads as well. My first question has to do with rotors. I have seen some drilled and slotted brake kits on Amazon and rock auto for fairly cheap and was wondering if they are worth my time or money or if I should just stick with blanks from a reputable company. I should add that at this point my Cherokee is bone stock and is my daily driver with little to no off road use. In the future I would like to do some modifications such as a lift and larger tires but for now we are stock.

My second questions has to do with pads. In my use of the search function I read a few people say that ceramic pads are a no no as they cause premature wear on rotors. Can someone please confirm this for sure.

My final question has to do with calipers. I had the front wheels off last week when I was inspecting my brake system to see if I thought it needed service and I noticed that both caliper pistons were extremely hard to depress back into the housing. My plan at this point is to replace the calipers while I'm in there doing pads a rotors but I need advice on brand. I have read some posts on this forum stating that raybestos or some parts store brand calipers have a tendency to warp rotors. I also read a few posts recommending the omix-ada calipers. I am just looking for advice here on which would be best for my rig.


tl;dr cermic pads or no? drilled/slotted rotors or blanks? brand recommendations for replacement calipers. All on stock DD Cherokee with plans to modify in the future.


Thank you all again in advance for your help.

 

I really like ceramic pads. Blank rotors are fine. What do you mean by hard to depress the piston? You should have had to use a clamp to push them back in.

 

Stick with blanks rotors. Drilled/slotted are mainly for looks, especially on a street/driven car. As for pads, I'm using Hawk LTS and am very happy with them.

By the way, "warped" rotors is most often a misnomer. What's actually causing the pedal pulsation is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. Using a pad compound that can take higher temps without leaving deposits (those Hawk pads, for example) is a big help to rotor longevity.

 

I've used ceramic pads on all of my vehicles including the 98 xj and I have never noticed premature wearing of the rotors. I do buy quality rotors however to go along with my ceramic pads.

I've been very happy with NAPA's Adaptive One brake pads and premium rotors.

 

In one video I watched on YouTube it mentioned that the caliper piston should be somewhat easy to depress with a pair of large pliers. Mine was very difficult to depress and I noticed some uneven pad wear while I was in there looking so I figured I may as well do the calipers while doing the rotors and pads.

 

I like to use the ceramic pad in all of my vehicle and I have never had a problem with premature wear on the rotors. Also I would just use the standard rotors. I tried the slotted and drilled rotor and never really cared for them. But that's just me.

 

No need for drilled/slotted rotors unless you make a LOT of heat braking. Like slowing down 10k lbs down a mountain or actual racing. If you want better brakes you can put discs on the rear axle.

They do wear out rotors faster than organic because organic pads are really soft and cheap an don't last very long. Semi-metallic even faster but they stop poorly and squeal. But this is hardly a worthwhile comparison. Ceramic is what was on these from the factory.

 

Those are signs that could point towards a piston being stuck/dirty/rusty. A caliper/piston review or rebuild is indeed good idea. You can buy the set for only a few $$ if you want to do it yourself. Semi-loaded callipers are relatively cheap if you can't be bothered otherwise.

 

You will need a star socket to remove the caliper. 13mm if I recall. Hit it with PB blaster a few days before. Its probably pretty rusted on.

 

Thank you everyone again for your help. So the general consensus seems to be the following; blanks instead of drilled with ceramic pads. What about calipers. I did look at rebuild kits but honestly at this point I think I am just looking to replace the old calipers with new. For calipers should I stay with Omix-ada, or are a parts store or raybestos ok?

 

I would take Raybestos over Omix-Ada brakes. Basically a real name brand phenolic piston.