I've had a 2000 XJ for about 2 1/2 years now. The breaks have always felt really weak, almost like no power brakes. You really have to stand on the pedal hard, compared to other cars I've owned. And recently I've realized that my emergency brake does almost nothing - barely slows me down but certainly wont stop the car, even at 10mph.

It feels like the rear brakes aren't doing much, and on wet roads recently the front brakes have locked and slid several times, making me think the back brakes aren't really engaging much.


Last year I had the front discs replaced and rotors turned. 6 months ago I had the back drum brakes done. No brake fluid leaking. No sponginess to the pedal, and pumping it makes no difference in feel or braking. I have done the drive backward and apply brakes thing to auto adjust them, but no difference.

Thoughts?

 

I have a similar problem; replacing my rotors, calipers, and fluid today. My vacuum booster works, the calipers and pads are new, and the drums/pads on the rear are fine.

It just feels like I'm trying to stomp on a roach every time I step on the brake pedal.

 

Check adjustment on the rear brakes.

Make sure you have good vacuum to the booster.
http://ssbrakes.com/attachment/85569...0Diagnosis.pdf

If it has done this since you aquired the jeep, maybe the PO had done some other work, and might be worth it to bleed the rear brakes, or check for possibly a damaged/pinched brake line to the rear.

 

Do you have confidence in your ability to remove the drums? If you do then take them off and inspect your brake components. When I did my brakes last the adjuster "screw" (Driver's side) did not engage the catch mechanism and I had to replace it with a new one. Previously the dealership did the rear brakes and neither of them worked afterwards. Couldn't buy just the adjuster so replaced all internals. Old catch mechanism had a shiny line where the adjuster teeth were scratching it, shoes were still like new.

 

Check for air in brake lines?

 

I know it sounds related, but odds are good the e-brake and the poor rear braking are two separate issues, since you say the shoes, etc are new. While they both operate at the rear brakes, they're separate systems. The e-brake problem is likely just worn/stretched cables.

The issue with the weak rear brakes could be just air in the lines. With the engine off, pump your brake pedal. If it gets tighter, you have air in the lines. If it stays the same, you have something else going on.

If its not air in the lines, first thing to check is for crimped lines. Follow the line all the way back, checking for pinched or flattened spots. Especially in vehicles that see off road use, not that unusual. If all looks well, there's four possibilities to consider;

1) bad master cylinder
2) bad proportioning valve
3) bad wheel cylinders
4) blockage in brake line

 

1. You don't have an emergency brake. You have a parking brake. It is NOT intended to stop the car in emergencies, it's intended to hold the car in place while parked. Depending on your trans to do this is hard on your trans, and can cause you to need a rebuild. It's just a small sheet metal tab that engages a gear. Not much at all. It's a backup.
2. Check the rear shoes. If they are installed backwards you won't have much braking power from them. Small on the front, longer on the back.
3. Once your rear brakes are working correctly, you may need to adjust your parking brake. The adjustor is under the car, basically right under the driver's side rear passenger's feet.

 

I'm not near the car now so it may be self explanatory once I see it, but can you give me an idea how the adjusting it works?

 

Can you clarify what you mean here? I can see locking up the drive wheels causing transmission stress, but simply slowing the Jeep down with the handbrake wouldn't appear to be any different than using the regular brakes.

 

I have a 2K XJ, the brakes are **** now matter what you do. I do all my own brake jobs myself, so I spend a little more on pads. I do have ABS but yes it does take time to come to a complete stop no matter. As for your drums, your going to have to adjust manually at the adjuster some more because they do work when adjusted. Driving backwards to adjust is done one tooth at a time ONLY IF you stomp it going back to a complete stop, wont work otherwise.

 

Hard to explain, easy to figure out once you see it. There is a kind of box with both cables coming from the brakes going into the rear of it, and one cable coming out the front and going to the parking brake lever. The box may or may not have a cover on it.

You'll need a 1/2" (or 13mm) combination wrench, and a good stout adjustable wrench or vise grips.

And patience.

 

Sorry, I see I was not clear. The parking brake is intended to hold the car while parked. Period. Many people do not use it, trusting their automatic transmission to hold the car instead, sometimes even on hills! This is what is hard on the transmission.

Using it to stop the car isn't going to stress the trans as far as I can see.

 

It is just as much an Ebrake as it is a parking brake.

If the hydraulics fail while moving............it's ALL you got, and therefore an emergency brake.

Any form of secondary brake is an emergency brake.

 

cheap econo pads/shoes can suck


or greasy hands on installing new parts can make for some lubricated friction surfaces




s

 

No, it's not. It is designed as a parking brake. It is not designed for emergency braking.

You can use an anchor for emergency braking. That doesn't make an anchor an emergency brake.

Calling it an emergency brake gives ignorant people bad information, which may lead to them doing stupid things which may get someone hurt or killed.

It is called an emergency brake by two classes of people:

1. The innocently ignorant.
2. The willfully ignorant.