The rotors didn't warp, that's a good thing. But back to square one with the crap pedal. Prob just gonna throw 2 calipers and new lines on it tomorrow, 220k miles might as well.

As far as the lines go, they have stock ones and 4" longer ones. Being stock height now can I go ahead and get the 4" longer ones for when I lift? just tie the excess back?

 

New hoses and calipers. Still crap pedal, but at least it feels like it has more stopping power, it'll lock up the fronts on dirt now. haha. Next is rear rubber hose and then a 95-96 booster.

 

Post 8?

 

Yep. X2 on these items. You will be amazed.

 

Didn't want to start a new thread since this one was already on the subject.

I am the process of a lot of upgrades to my 92 XJ. I was looking at swapping the booster and MC to a 95 setup since I have read that it greatly improves the braking and is a direct swap, but now I see the Grand Cherokee booster and MC swap and am wondering if that would be better and direct fit as well?

Since I have it all apart (intake and exhaust removed) and there is easy access I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve as well but cannot find one anywhere??

My xj is a 2wd but has the factory towing kit so the 4WD front brakes, and I have completely rebuilt the entire brake system

 

I prefer the 99 to 2004 Grand Cherokee booster and master swap.

WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster

Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.

I've done both.

XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.

WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.

And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..

 

The only reason yo would need a new proportioning valve is if you go to rear discs. It would have a different ration in it. I used a early GC booster. It is dual diaphragm and is an upgrade. No reason to change out the master cylinder. You won't gain anything and it has different type of brake line fittings on it you would have to deal with

 

I'm curious about the route you went.

And, just so we all know, if you go rear discs, you only need the guts from the prop valve on a 94 to 98 Grand Cherokee.

 

Are you talking the whole system or the diaphragm and master cylinder?

 

Curious about what you did.

 

I redid the whole system. I used a ZJ booster, not sure what year. It was given to me in exchange for some suspension work. 98 ZJ master cylinder and proportioning valve from a 5.9 ZJ. 99 WJ front brakes. I made a mounting bracket and used the WJ rear brakes. Made my own track bar and mounts to match a tie rod and drag link flip. Stops on a dime and gives change. It almost stops too fast. But when I go up in tire size it should be just right

 

I'm parting out a ZJ. I'll have to look more closely at the booster/master set up.

 

 

Is there any company that makes dual piston calipers for an xj that bolt on? I've read about using a different jeeps calipers maybe a zj or wj, but don't want to go through the hassle of fabbing anything. I'm at my wits end on these brakes, New everything except hardlines, Dual diaphragm booster/mc, calipers, rotors, high dollar performance friction pads, hoses, everything. Rears adjusted, It stops so-so on the street, After I put the 31's on it, it's not as good as when the 235's was on it, but I expected that. After I finally got a winch on it I tested everything, Hooked the winch to a tree and stood on the brakes, I figured it would at least pull it across the yard sliding but the tires rolled, granted they were fighting for all their life, nosed the jeep down pretty good, but the brakes won't even hold from a dead stop.

 

I just finished reading pages after pages on the wj knuckle swap. I may go that route. Only fabbing will be welding the spacer to the knuckle. And sourcing parts. And since I'm about to be re-gearing. I'm planning on getting new diff's anyways so i can do all this on a bench before it's swapped in the jeep.