break problems ahhhhhhhh
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
break problems ahhhhhhhh
ok i had the rotors and calipers replaced yesterday and when i was bleeding the breaks it took a while to get all the air out of the break lines. once that was done I hit my break pedel and it went all the way to the floor.. after you pump it a couple of times you have good pressure. then if you release it goes to the floor again.. any suggestions?
#2
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I would think you still have air in the lines...somewhere...I dealt with something simular on one of my motorcycles...took a while to work the bubbles out.
#3
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
You still have lots of air in the lines somewhewre, Bro. Unless you have fluid leaking out, that's the only yhting that can cause that.
#6
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Definitely air. Did you do the fluid in all 4 brakes or just the fronts (with rotors and pads)? I was always told to do the fluid in the rears first before doing the fronts but I don't know if that really matters. I'm assuming you know how to flush your brake fluid, but have just missed a pocket or two somewhere. What method are you using to flush your fluid (e.g., pump, gravity, speed bleeders, etc?) and are you doing this by yourself? I find brake bleeding to be way easier with two people...one to work the caliper and the other to keep fluid in the reservoir.
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#8
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
When you bleed your brakes start with the wheel farthest from the MC and work your way to the closest:
1.) passenger's side rear
2.) driver's side rear
3.) Passenger's side front
4.) driver's side front
1.) passenger's side rear
2.) driver's side rear
3.) Passenger's side front
4.) driver's side front
#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0 I6
check all they points where the lines are screwed together .. check connections at the master cylinder for leaks and anywhere there is a union and where it plugs into the caliper if they arent leaking then it has to be air.. a tip on bleeding is make sure the master cylinder is always full .. everyone usually fills it up to bleed it and then right after they think they got everything out and are bleeding it a little more they run out of fluid in the master cylinder not paying attention and having to do it all over again.. that might be what you did
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Year: 2000
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do this and make sure you are checking the fluid level when bleeding if it goes low you will have to start over again
#11
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common easily made mistake, check to make sure the bleeder valve is above the brake line on the calipers. if they're below, they're on the wrong side.
but yeah, what buck said. furthest first until it's a steady stream of fluid.
get someone in the jeep to press the brake pedal a couple times, then hold. while they're holding, release the bleeder nut and quickly tighten again. you don't want the pedal to hit the floor.
pump the pedal a couple times again and hold. then release the bleeder nut again and quickly tighten. do this until steady stream of fluid comes out.
then switch to the next bleeder nut. etc. making sure the reservoir is full. don't reuse the fluid that you bleed out.
but yeah, what buck said. furthest first until it's a steady stream of fluid.
get someone in the jeep to press the brake pedal a couple times, then hold. while they're holding, release the bleeder nut and quickly tighten again. you don't want the pedal to hit the floor.
pump the pedal a couple times again and hold. then release the bleeder nut again and quickly tighten. do this until steady stream of fluid comes out.
then switch to the next bleeder nut. etc. making sure the reservoir is full. don't reuse the fluid that you bleed out.
#12
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Year: 1994
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[quote=caged;139857]common easily made mistake, check to make sure the bleeder valve is above the brake line on the calipers. if they're below, they're on the wrong side.
that was exactly what was wrong thanks guys got that one fixed now on to the next fix..
that was exactly what was wrong thanks guys got that one fixed now on to the next fix..
#13
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cool, at least it was an easy one. changing out a master or proportioning valve is a little more involved.
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