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Breaks are killing me

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Old 07-27-2024, 07:36 PM
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Default Breaks are killing me

I have a 1998 Cherokee. Randomly one day we lost rear brakes and then the back. We replaced the booster and master cylinder. Barely any fluid is coming out the back passenger or driver tire. Same at front. Found what might have been a bad line and replaced it. Brake still goes to the floor and no air coming out. There is no leaking in the wheel cylinders and so I am at a damn loss for what to do jow
Old 07-27-2024, 09:47 PM
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The next thing I would do is take apart the brake proportioning valve. It may be jammed, a new or used one also makes sense

I always start my bleeding with the fronts, fluid should literally **** out of them, if it doesn't, something is wrong upstream

did you bench bleed the master?. I have no experience with the XJ master/booster failure, but I think there is a rod in between that needs to be correctly adjusted
Old 07-28-2024, 04:51 PM
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I've never found XJ brakes to dispel fluid, it also means they don't leak: when the flexible hose to the back axle failed I must've done 50 miles (trying not to use the brakes) before there was any noticeable difference in the feel of them.

You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
Old 07-28-2024, 08:16 PM
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What method are you using to bleed ? 2 person method, or a bleeder bottle?
Old 07-29-2024, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by UKXJ
I've never found XJ brakes to dispel fluid, it also means they don't leak: when the flexible hose to the back axle failed I must've done 50 miles (trying not to use the brakes) before there was any noticeable difference in the feel of them.

You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
??.

I do agree litlle fluid is expelled from rears (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)

However, fluid runs out the front caliper bleed screws by gravity alone...copiously (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)

I do slow gravity bleeds, on a slope, start at the top and work my way down, I will loosen connectors all the way back, one at a time

the air has nowhere to hide

I rarely use the various tools that are supposed to help

Usually I do it in one go, and use less than 1 litre to have the whole job done.

Its usually fine, sometimes i have to do it again for perfection

I know everyone says do the furthest back one first. my way works better (in my not so humble opinion)
Old 07-29-2024, 10:01 AM
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Have you physically removed the bleeder screws, sonetimes they block up and dont pass air or fluid
Old 07-29-2024, 10:13 AM
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Hasn't happened on my Jeep but on every other vehicle when the pedal suddenly went to the floor it was the master cylinder.
Old 07-29-2024, 12:46 PM
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Remember, too, not to overfill the master. There is a full line somewhere. If you do the fluid expands as the brakes heat up and if there’s nowhere to go it applies the brakes. Common mistake.
Old 07-29-2024, 12:55 PM
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Old 07-29-2024, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bluejeep2001
Have you physically removed the bleeder screws, sonetimes they block up and dont pass air or fluid
Even tried leaving them out overnight: still dry as a bone!
Old 07-29-2024, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by awg
??.

I do agree litlle fluid is expelled from rears (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)

However, fluid runs out the front caliper bleed screws by gravity alone...copiously (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)

I do slow gravity bleeds, on a slope, start at the top and work my way down, I will loosen connectors all the way back, one at a time

the air has nowhere to hide

I rarely use the various tools that are supposed to help

Usually I do it in one go, and use less than 1 litre to have the whole job done.

Its usually fine, sometimes i have to do it again for perfection

I know everyone says do the furthest back one first. my way works better (in my not so humble opinion)
On reflection, I can't remember when I last had to break into the front hydraulics (& one thing I've learned from working on Americans is you only ever have to bleed the corner you're working on) so let's limit this to rears. As for gravity bleeding, I'd never even heard of it 'til relatively recently - &, for the reasons I've mentioned, in my book, it's myth. Of course I do remember the cars (Ford Anglias spring to mind) that required the pedal to be weighed/wedged down to the floor overnight, as the 1st step in any bleeding exercise.
Old 07-30-2024, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by UKXJ
Even tried leaving them out overnight: still dry as a bone!
Are you saying that upon loosening, or removing the bleeder screws from the front caliper, no fluid runs out ?

I have done front brake work on several XJs, including mine recently, and each time, I allow fluid to just run out of the bleeder screw, maybe a few pedal pushes to start, then gravity, job done

One small 500ml brake fluid bottle per wheel

Had to bleed them after replacing longer new hoses for a lift, and replaced piston and seal on one side (unnecessarily as it turned out), but is good to clear the caliper of years of built up debris

I do not have ABS, if you have ABS, that changes everything

Last edited by awg; 07-30-2024 at 11:13 AM.
Old 07-30-2024, 01:11 PM
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Like I said, I can't now remember about the fronts.

ABS is another myth, it makes no difference at all (unless you drain the pump). My 1st experience of BS was an '84 Jag, there was reams about bleeding the brakes, something along the lines of doing the fronts 1st (fairly conventionally IIRC) then the loosen the bleed screws on both rear calipers, start the engine, leave it idling - & they bleed themselves. All utter tosh! I bled them the same as everything else before & they were fine, same with 2 others, 2 Caddies, 3 XJ's, a WJ & a KJ.

Curious you don't have ABS, I thought it was standard on export models, but must be a European thing where, even if it wasn't mandatory, the target market would've expected it.
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