View Poll Results: What should I try now???
Entire brake system?
0
0%
New brake lines?
0
0%
Proportion valve replacement?
0
0%
Burn the ****ing thing and by a truck?
2
100.00%
Voters: 2. You may not vote on this poll
Breaks are killing me
#1
Breaks are killing me
I have a 1998 Cherokee. Randomly one day we lost rear brakes and then the back. We replaced the booster and master cylinder. Barely any fluid is coming out the back passenger or driver tire. Same at front. Found what might have been a bad line and replaced it. Brake still goes to the floor and no air coming out. There is no leaking in the wheel cylinders and so I am at a damn loss for what to do jow
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The next thing I would do is take apart the brake proportioning valve. It may be jammed, a new or used one also makes sense
I always start my bleeding with the fronts, fluid should literally **** out of them, if it doesn't, something is wrong upstream
did you bench bleed the master?. I have no experience with the XJ master/booster failure, but I think there is a rod in between that needs to be correctly adjusted
I always start my bleeding with the fronts, fluid should literally **** out of them, if it doesn't, something is wrong upstream
did you bench bleed the master?. I have no experience with the XJ master/booster failure, but I think there is a rod in between that needs to be correctly adjusted
#3
CF Veteran
I've never found XJ brakes to dispel fluid, it also means they don't leak: when the flexible hose to the back axle failed I must've done 50 miles (trying not to use the brakes) before there was any noticeable difference in the feel of them.
You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
#4
CF Veteran
What method are you using to bleed ? 2 person method, or a bleeder bottle?
#5
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I've never found XJ brakes to dispel fluid, it also means they don't leak: when the flexible hose to the back axle failed I must've done 50 miles (trying not to use the brakes) before there was any noticeable difference in the feel of them.
You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
You can go through the motions - & achieve the desired result but I doubt you'll see a tablespoon of fluid 7 all 3 of my XJ's have been like that.
I do agree litlle fluid is expelled from rears (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
However, fluid runs out the front caliper bleed screws by gravity alone...copiously (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
I do slow gravity bleeds, on a slope, start at the top and work my way down, I will loosen connectors all the way back, one at a time
the air has nowhere to hide
I rarely use the various tools that are supposed to help
Usually I do it in one go, and use less than 1 litre to have the whole job done.
Its usually fine, sometimes i have to do it again for perfection
I know everyone says do the furthest back one first. my way works better (in my not so humble opinion)
#6
CF Veteran
Have you physically removed the bleeder screws, sonetimes they block up and dont pass air or fluid
#7
Junior Member
Hasn't happened on my Jeep but on every other vehicle when the pedal suddenly went to the floor it was the master cylinder.
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#8
CF Veteran
Remember, too, not to overfill the master. There is a full line somewhere. If you do the fluid expands as the brakes heat up and if there’s nowhere to go it applies the brakes. Common mistake.
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#10
CF Veteran
#11
CF Veteran
??.
I do agree litlle fluid is expelled from rears (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
However, fluid runs out the front caliper bleed screws by gravity alone...copiously (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
I do slow gravity bleeds, on a slope, start at the top and work my way down, I will loosen connectors all the way back, one at a time
the air has nowhere to hide
I rarely use the various tools that are supposed to help
Usually I do it in one go, and use less than 1 litre to have the whole job done.
Its usually fine, sometimes i have to do it again for perfection
I know everyone says do the furthest back one first. my way works better (in my not so humble opinion)
I do agree litlle fluid is expelled from rears (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
However, fluid runs out the front caliper bleed screws by gravity alone...copiously (like almost every vehicle I have worked on)
I do slow gravity bleeds, on a slope, start at the top and work my way down, I will loosen connectors all the way back, one at a time
the air has nowhere to hide
I rarely use the various tools that are supposed to help
Usually I do it in one go, and use less than 1 litre to have the whole job done.
Its usually fine, sometimes i have to do it again for perfection
I know everyone says do the furthest back one first. my way works better (in my not so humble opinion)
#12
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Join Date: Mar 2016
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Are you saying that upon loosening, or removing the bleeder screws from the front caliper, no fluid runs out ?
I have done front brake work on several XJs, including mine recently, and each time, I allow fluid to just run out of the bleeder screw, maybe a few pedal pushes to start, then gravity, job done
One small 500ml brake fluid bottle per wheel
Had to bleed them after replacing longer new hoses for a lift, and replaced piston and seal on one side (unnecessarily as it turned out), but is good to clear the caliper of years of built up debris
I do not have ABS, if you have ABS, that changes everything
I have done front brake work on several XJs, including mine recently, and each time, I allow fluid to just run out of the bleeder screw, maybe a few pedal pushes to start, then gravity, job done
One small 500ml brake fluid bottle per wheel
Had to bleed them after replacing longer new hoses for a lift, and replaced piston and seal on one side (unnecessarily as it turned out), but is good to clear the caliper of years of built up debris
I do not have ABS, if you have ABS, that changes everything
Last edited by awg; 07-30-2024 at 11:13 AM.
#13
CF Veteran
Like I said, I can't now remember about the fronts.
ABS is another myth, it makes no difference at all (unless you drain the pump). My 1st experience of BS was an '84 Jag, there was reams about bleeding the brakes, something along the lines of doing the fronts 1st (fairly conventionally IIRC) then the loosen the bleed screws on both rear calipers, start the engine, leave it idling - & they bleed themselves. All utter tosh! I bled them the same as everything else before & they were fine, same with 2 others, 2 Caddies, 3 XJ's, a WJ & a KJ.
Curious you don't have ABS, I thought it was standard on export models, but must be a European thing where, even if it wasn't mandatory, the target market would've expected it.
ABS is another myth, it makes no difference at all (unless you drain the pump). My 1st experience of BS was an '84 Jag, there was reams about bleeding the brakes, something along the lines of doing the fronts 1st (fairly conventionally IIRC) then the loosen the bleed screws on both rear calipers, start the engine, leave it idling - & they bleed themselves. All utter tosh! I bled them the same as everything else before & they were fine, same with 2 others, 2 Caddies, 3 XJ's, a WJ & a KJ.
Curious you don't have ABS, I thought it was standard on export models, but must be a European thing where, even if it wasn't mandatory, the target market would've expected it.
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