Broke front leaf spring bolt
#16
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Year: 2001
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I cut it all with a torch which made a huge mess but the sleeve I just heated up till it was red hot and then grabbed it with vise grips and turned the bolt out with the impact gun and a wrench behind the bolt head to pull it out. Worked like a charm besides the molten tar
#18
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Year: 2001
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Well thats gonna be tough then. Cause even if you cut a whole in the floor there isnt too much room to work with. You will have to cut off the nut and pound the bolt into the frame and cut off another section and repeat until its out. That would be my approach at least. Good luck
#20
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Year: 1999
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OP if that's the goal then you can stiff a 5" or larger cutting wheel between the bushing and frame side and just cut the bolt off. Though seeing how totally weak those bolts are you may be able to drill them out after all.
#21
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No antisieze on stock bolts. There is no way class 10.9 hardware would snap without even a breaker bar.
OP if that's the goal then you can stiff a 5" or larger cutting wheel between the bushing and frame side and just cut the bolt off. Though seeing how totally weak those bolts are you may be able to drill them out after all.
OP if that's the goal then you can stiff a 5" or larger cutting wheel between the bushing and frame side and just cut the bolt off. Though seeing how totally weak those bolts are you may be able to drill them out after all.
#23
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I guess he didn't use anti seize, I will try drilling it out. It sure seems like he used a different bolt when putting the leafs on, it snapped pretty easily.
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#26
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Soaked mine with PB for about a week straight prior.
Got a big breaker bar, turned it until a "click", sprayed more PB then turned it back. Worked it back and forth like that, spraying PB in between turns (would go a little farther each time) and eventually it was loose enough to spin out with a ratchet.
Of course my XJ is relatively rust free, but it was just a precaution.
Used copious amounts of anti-seize when putting it back together.
Got a big breaker bar, turned it until a "click", sprayed more PB then turned it back. Worked it back and forth like that, spraying PB in between turns (would go a little farther each time) and eventually it was loose enough to spin out with a ratchet.
Of course my XJ is relatively rust free, but it was just a precaution.
Used copious amounts of anti-seize when putting it back together.
#27
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Soaked mine with PB for about a week straight prior.
Got a big breaker bar, turned it until a "click", sprayed more PB then turned it back. Worked it back and forth like that, spraying PB in between turns (would go a little farther each time) and eventually it was loose enough to spin out with a ratchet.
Of course my XJ is relatively rust free, but it was just a precaution.
Used copious amounts of anti-seize when putting it back together.
Got a big breaker bar, turned it until a "click", sprayed more PB then turned it back. Worked it back and forth like that, spraying PB in between turns (would go a little farther each time) and eventually it was loose enough to spin out with a ratchet.
Of course my XJ is relatively rust free, but it was just a precaution.
Used copious amounts of anti-seize when putting it back together.
#29
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You know I was just thinking... if that bolt broke when you hit it with a ratchet you likely just finished shearing it off and it was toast already. It probably snapped in the Jeep while you or the PO were driving and has just been sitting there loose.
#30
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Yeah maybe, I was kinda wondering the same thing. I used a lot more force on the other side and it came out just fine
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