Broken muffler/tailpipe. Which part(s) do I need to replace?
#16
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I am wondering if I could do part of this at home.
1) Get the muffler seperated from the catalytic converter. (Not yet sure if possible)
2) Use an angle grinder (or Dremel cut off wheel since it's safer) to cut off the tailpipe from the muffler.
3) Install new muffler and join it to the old tailpipe with JB Weld? Would that hold until I am able to get a pro to do the final welding?
1) Get the muffler seperated from the catalytic converter. (Not yet sure if possible)
2) Use an angle grinder (or Dremel cut off wheel since it's safer) to cut off the tailpipe from the muffler.
3) Install new muffler and join it to the old tailpipe with JB Weld? Would that hold until I am able to get a pro to do the final welding?
Number one is possible.
Number 2...use the grinder. Not a dremel. Doing so would be like going around the block to get next door...
Number 3...
...well let's just say JB weld ought to be banned from automotive repair altogether.
Hey Earl,
Thanks for your reply. Basically, you need to cut off that clamp and then just bash the muffler off ?
I actually have an air chisel I could use. Where exactly did you point the chisel?
Since the back of the muffler is unsecured, the muffler is able to move backwards.
So, do you just chisel the lip of the muffler that is over the cat pipe?
Is this connection welded? or just clamped?
Thanks for your reply. Basically, you need to cut off that clamp and then just bash the muffler off ?
I actually have an air chisel I could use. Where exactly did you point the chisel?
Since the back of the muffler is unsecured, the muffler is able to move backwards.
So, do you just chisel the lip of the muffler that is over the cat pipe?
Is this connection welded? or just clamped?
Use a grinder and cutoff wheel at the clamp behind the cat, and every hangar after that, and any place from the muffler to the back that gets in the way. Remove the tumors. Get a new STAINLESS muffler of good quality, and new tailpipe, that has the hangars installed. Get new clamps for the cat, and post-muffler connections. Re-install. Bob's your uncle. After reading this, go back up to my first quote, and re-read that. Then take it to a shop. It will only cost you 10K, and you'll need a lift to do it anyways, so just trying to save you the hassle...
#17
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Use a grinder and cutoff wheel at the clamp behind the cat, and every hangar after that, and any place from the muffler to the back that gets in the way. Remove the tumors. Get a new STAINLESS muffler of good quality, and new tailpipe, that has the hangars installed. Get new clamps for the cat, and post-muffler connections. Re-install.
#19
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I would inspect the exhaust to determine if it's stainless or regular steel. Steel exhaust doesn't weld all that well with stainless, unless it's done correctly. I've had this type of weld (done by professional exhaust shops) fail in the past. Welds hold better if your're welding the same type of metal.
If the exhaust system hasn't been damaged and twisted badly, I would use clamps.
I can' see the rest of the exhaust. From the pics it appears you should be able to fix it yourself, by grinding, cutting or unbolting the existing clamps and installing a new muffler. Making certain the rest of the exhaust is lined up and hanging correctly.
When using clamps it's important that the inner and outer pipes fit together snug and there is enough pipe material before installing the clamps.
If the exhaust system hasn't been damaged and twisted badly, I would use clamps.
I can' see the rest of the exhaust. From the pics it appears you should be able to fix it yourself, by grinding, cutting or unbolting the existing clamps and installing a new muffler. Making certain the rest of the exhaust is lined up and hanging correctly.
When using clamps it's important that the inner and outer pipes fit together snug and there is enough pipe material before installing the clamps.
Last edited by Muddz; 07-09-2015 at 11:09 PM.
#20
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roninofako,
I will take your advice to bring it to the shop.
I have an appointment for Wed.
I have ordered the Walker $40 muffler and $60 tailpipe.
Thanks for the advice, everyone!
I will take your advice to bring it to the shop.
I have an appointment for Wed.
I have ordered the Walker $40 muffler and $60 tailpipe.
Thanks for the advice, everyone!
#22
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Year: 1995
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XJ factory exhausts were galvanized steel, not stainless steel, but the factory exhausts did hold up fairly well (though not as good as stainless would have). Yes, AMC/Chrysler cheaped out, not like that should be a surprise to anyone.
Absolutely, but Mopar is charging over $500 for a muffler/tailpipe assembly that will run you about $50 with aftermarket parts (or around $150 for stainless steel). If the factory piping is still in good shape it makes sense to use as much of it as you can since it is likely better than what you will find on the aftermarket unless you spend a lot, but given the cost of factory replacements it doesn't make much sense you buy new OE exhaust parts (you can get a really nice all stainless cat back system for less than the cost of an OE galvanized muffler & tailpipe).
Absolutely, but Mopar is charging over $500 for a muffler/tailpipe assembly that will run you about $50 with aftermarket parts (or around $150 for stainless steel). If the factory piping is still in good shape it makes sense to use as much of it as you can since it is likely better than what you will find on the aftermarket unless you spend a lot, but given the cost of factory replacements it doesn't make much sense you buy new OE exhaust parts (you can get a really nice all stainless cat back system for less than the cost of an OE galvanized muffler & tailpipe).
#23
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Year: 1998
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I bought all the parts today. Tailpipe, muffler, and 2 1/4 clamps.
But, like Charlie Brown kicking the football, I was stupid enough to see if I could work on this car myself. Again.
I did get the clamp off with my Dremel, so that was a small victory.
I think part of the clamp is still welded onto the pipes!
You can see the outline of the 2 rails..
What is funny is that it looks like it will crumble apart, but I was hammering at this joint, and it's solid as a rock.
The cat is fully welded to the muffler. I will have a professional finish the job, like usual.
I can't wait to see how a trained professional gets them apart!
But, like Charlie Brown kicking the football, I was stupid enough to see if I could work on this car myself. Again.
I did get the clamp off with my Dremel, so that was a small victory.
I think part of the clamp is still welded onto the pipes!
You can see the outline of the 2 rails..
What is funny is that it looks like it will crumble apart, but I was hammering at this joint, and it's solid as a rock.
The cat is fully welded to the muffler. I will have a professional finish the job, like usual.
I can't wait to see how a trained professional gets them apart!
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 07-07-2015 at 07:44 PM.
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Is that a small Tack weld? or just rust, I cant really make it out.
It looks to me like it has a small tack weld there.
It looks to me like it has a small tack weld there.
Last edited by Dumajones; 07-07-2015 at 08:04 PM.
#27
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Year: 1995
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I eventually replaced the entire exhaust with aftermarket OE-fit steel because the down-pipe and tail-pipe became damaged. The cat and muffler also needed replacement. Total cost for the front & tail pipes, cat, muffler, rear hanger and exhaust clamps was approx. ~$250.00. Took me somewhere between 30 to 45 mins. removing old exhaust, fitting and clamping in the new exhaust parts.
When I have the time I'm planning on repairing the damaged OEM stainless front and tail-pipe.
Here's one site I've purchased exhaust parts from before that carries a line of partial exhaust systems, individual parts , hardware and repair material. Also carries an exhaust system for the XJ. Prices are good but shipping can become high.
http://performance-curve.com
Last edited by Muddz; 07-08-2015 at 01:24 AM.
#28
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For about $275.00 you can fab a stainless exhaust like my pictures show.
#29
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You have NO idea who you're dealing with...LOL
#30
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It was VERY VERY good advice to take this job to a professional.
There is no way I could have done this at home.
The mechanic had to use a Sawzall to hack off the exhaust.
The car was on the lift to do that.
He had to cut pretty close to the cat, and he used a massive industrial tube flaring machine to fab up the cat to muffler connector pipe.
No way to do that at home.
He then had to weld both sides back on.
Welding is out of reach for most backyard mechanics.
I'm so glad I didn't attempt this at home.
Beginners, definitely leave the Jeep exhaust work for the experts!
There is a reason these guys make bank.
There is no way I could have done this at home.
The mechanic had to use a Sawzall to hack off the exhaust.
The car was on the lift to do that.
He had to cut pretty close to the cat, and he used a massive industrial tube flaring machine to fab up the cat to muffler connector pipe.
No way to do that at home.
He then had to weld both sides back on.
Welding is out of reach for most backyard mechanics.
I'm so glad I didn't attempt this at home.
Beginners, definitely leave the Jeep exhaust work for the experts!
There is a reason these guys make bank.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 07-08-2015 at 03:42 PM.