A/C Compressor Puzzle
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 242 cui
A/C Compressor Puzzle
Getting back to shopping for A/C parts to replace everything but the evaporator.
However, on Rock Auto I see this every time I look at anything with a compressor:
And "Additional Resources" isn't a link to anything.
Hopefully the Rock Auto wizards have figured out which compressor I have, since mine doesn't have any tags or other ID on it that I can find to identify it:
Also, anybody have any experience between Denso and Four Seasons? I know the Denso name, but Four Seasons appears to be the most expensive in component categories.
1996 XJ Sport, I6 4.0L, Manual
Thanks in advance!
However, on Rock Auto I see this every time I look at anything with a compressor:
And "Additional Resources" isn't a link to anything.
Hopefully the Rock Auto wizards have figured out which compressor I have, since mine doesn't have any tags or other ID on it that I can find to identify it:
Also, anybody have any experience between Denso and Four Seasons? I know the Denso name, but Four Seasons appears to be the most expensive in component categories.
1996 XJ Sport, I6 4.0L, Manual
Thanks in advance!
#2
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Year: 1996
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There is a "709T" in the casting at the top under the radiator hose. Some of the part numbers on Rock Auto have a 709 buried in them too. And I have no idea if this is meaningful.
#4
Senior Member
Before you replace the compressor, I ask why? GPD and 4 seasons don't really have the greatest track record. I've installed hundreds of 4 seasons compressors, and have warrantied quite a lot of them. If the OE one still works, I'd keep it.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
#5
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Year: 1996
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Before you replace the compressor, I ask why? GPD and 4 seasons don't really have the greatest track record. I've installed hundreds of 4 seasons compressors, and have warrantied quite a lot of them. If the OE one still works, I'd keep it.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
#6
Senior Member
Before you replace the compressor, I ask why? GPD and 4 seasons don't really have the greatest track record. I've installed hundreds of 4 seasons compressors, and have warrantied quite a lot of them. If the OE one still works, I'd keep it.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
Parallel flow offers better cooling supposedly. I just replace with what it came with.
If you're just trying to refresh your system, replace the rubber lines, orifice tube, and receiver. Flush the rest and blow it out with compressed air, draw a vacuum and fill it up. Most of the aftermarket parts available aren't anything you'd want unless your original stuff is unusable.
Have you had luck with those?
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318SixPack (01-11-2022)
#7
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Dusty Wagoneer
Not totally a thread jack, but for the OP and also me, what about the Denso compressors?
Have you had luck with those?
Have you had luck with those?
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#8
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Thanks Al!!
318 here is something to think about then: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...okee/year/1993
318 here is something to think about then: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...okee/year/1993
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318SixPack (01-11-2022)
#9
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That doesn't mean the compressor is bad necessarily. Most times the refrigerant just leaks out, but atmospheric air doesn't actually enter the system. Try turning the compressor over by the clutch (with your hand) and see if it moves. If so, you're likely to be in good shape.
Denso compressors are great. I have one on my Rx7 that's original and still truckin.
Denso compressors are great. I have one on my Rx7 that's original and still truckin.
In another thread some years ago someone advised that I should change the lines too, so I am going to replace everything forward of the firewall and run a healthy amount of cleaner through the evaporator core, then low pressure blow dry.
Now, back to my questions, as written above.
#10
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Thanks Al!!
318 here is something to think about then: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...okee/year/1993
318 here is something to think about then: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...okee/year/1993
#11
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Year: 1996
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Found some info on the difference between the compressor styles. Still hoping to find out if the Denso unit will fit my application:
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1112917
Re: difference between Sanden SD709 and SD7H15My '98 XJ has the SD7H15 compressor (R-134a).
My '96 XJ has the SD709 (is uses R-134a).
My '93 XJ (now deceased) had the SD709 (it used R-12).
In all 3 cases, the way(s) in which the hoses attached at the rear of the compressor
were all different from each other. I advise you to be certain that your hoses will
be able to fit on to the compressor that you are thinking of buying.
Also...
The SDH15 has a splined shaft with which to attach the pulley clutch plate. There are
no provisions to attach a puller onto the pulley clutch plate. If you ever find the need
to remove it, so you have to whack it with a hammer and lever it out with a pair of
screwdrivers (a crude, cave-man influenced design, in my opinion).
The SD709 has a Woodruff key shaft which with to attach the pulley clutch plate.
Here, the clutch plate has 3 threaded holes with which to attach a pulley puller.
A smarter, and more civil way to go for removing that part.
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1112917
Re: difference between Sanden SD709 and SD7H15My '98 XJ has the SD7H15 compressor (R-134a).
My '96 XJ has the SD709 (is uses R-134a).
My '93 XJ (now deceased) had the SD709 (it used R-12).
In all 3 cases, the way(s) in which the hoses attached at the rear of the compressor
were all different from each other. I advise you to be certain that your hoses will
be able to fit on to the compressor that you are thinking of buying.
Also...
The SDH15 has a splined shaft with which to attach the pulley clutch plate. There are
no provisions to attach a puller onto the pulley clutch plate. If you ever find the need
to remove it, so you have to whack it with a hammer and lever it out with a pair of
screwdrivers (a crude, cave-man influenced design, in my opinion).
The SD709 has a Woodruff key shaft which with to attach the pulley clutch plate.
Here, the clutch plate has 3 threaded holes with which to attach a pulley puller.
A smarter, and more civil way to go for removing that part.
#12
Senior Member
I will ALWAYS try to order from Summit first.
The reason being is Summit will take care of you no matter what, and Rockauto is more like pulling teeth without Novocain ifin you have a problem.
A month or two ago I ordered ths Derale temp sensor switch for my electric fans. Well the thing did not switch on till about thirty degrees over the listed temp.
I wrote a review of the product (with pictures), and the next day someone from Summit contacted me to refund my money based on my review.
Would rockauto ever do that?
The reason being is Summit will take care of you no matter what, and Rockauto is more like pulling teeth without Novocain ifin you have a problem.
A month or two ago I ordered ths Derale temp sensor switch for my electric fans. Well the thing did not switch on till about thirty degrees over the listed temp.
I wrote a review of the product (with pictures), and the next day someone from Summit contacted me to refund my money based on my review.
Would rockauto ever do that?
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#13
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Year: 1996
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I will ALWAYS try to order from Summit first.
The reason being is Summit will take care of you no matter what, and Rockauto is more like pulling teeth without Novocain ifin you have a problem.
A month or two ago I ordered ths Derale temp sensor switch for my electric fans. Well the thing did not switch on till about thirty degrees over the listed temp.
I wrote a review of the product (with pictures), and the next day someone from Summit contacted me to refund my money based on my review.
Would rockauto ever do that?
The reason being is Summit will take care of you no matter what, and Rockauto is more like pulling teeth without Novocain ifin you have a problem.
A month or two ago I ordered ths Derale temp sensor switch for my electric fans. Well the thing did not switch on till about thirty degrees over the listed temp.
I wrote a review of the product (with pictures), and the next day someone from Summit contacted me to refund my money based on my review.
Would rockauto ever do that?
Shipping on all the parts to replace everything but the evaporator core is about $30 from Rock Auto, three different shipments. Will see what Summit looks like. Tight budget just came up again too,, so might have to order stuff incrementally and get the compressor and condenser last so I don't run out too much warranty before installation.
#14
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I've got a Denso, 471-7005 in my 96. I put in Aug. 2019. Still works if that's an endorsement. I replaced the original thinking it was toast. Turned out to be the relay, and I seem to burn through them for whatever reason. I also replaced the evaporator/dryer since I had the system open.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Last edited by MessyJesse; 01-12-2022 at 07:07 AM. Reason: typo
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318SixPack (01-11-2022)
#15
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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I've got a Denso, 471-7005 in my 96. I put in Aug. 2019. Still works if that's an endorsement. I replaced the original thinking it was toast. Turned out to be the relay, and I seem to burn through them for whatever reason. I also replaced all the evaporator/dryer since I had the system open.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Stopped by the dealer today to inquire about the model difference, and nobody knew, even the old parts guy. He looked up the part from my VIN and MOPAR has discontinued it.
Anybody with a Denso 471-7005 can you see if the ports on the back are oriented like this? Shouldn't matter as the hoses should have enough articulation to make it anywhere on the back of the unit, but that post I quoted says it could be an issue.
They seem to be oriented on the horizontal axis.