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Old 07-12-2018 | 06:24 PM
  #61  
Bugout4x4's Avatar
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From: Arizona
Year: 97
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Thank you for hanging in through this mess with patience Pat. Apparently controversy creates participation. lol

Been on the road for two days and came back to what looks like maybe an update to the script here?

One statement needs to be made here though. I have been charging A/C systems since I was a kid. And guess where all the "A/C professionals" bring their personal rigs to get COLD air when their wives are complaining that it is not cold enough for them when it gets up to 128 outside because they themselves cannot figure out how. One of the few that can... And we haven't even got into the challenges of split systems in big trucks yet.

Give me a bit to catch up sir and I will get back to this question.
Old 07-12-2018 | 07:06 PM
  #62  
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
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Originally Posted by PatHenry
So does anybody know IF I have a liquid line on my 95 R134a system, given it's the "expansion valve/dryer" setup and if so, where it runs? The parts retailers DO list one for the 95 but I don't see it (or I'm failing to recognize it) when looking in the engine compartment. It states it runs from the evaporator to the condenser, so it should be from the firewall somewhere to the front of the radiator.

Another question, can anyone confirm that if the lines look like threaded fittings that they definitely are? Assuming that they are all threaded (as it appears they are) can I (should I) use PBBlaster if necessary? What about heat?

Sorry for my ignorance. Once I know the answers to these questions, I think my plan will be to order a new R/D, Expansion valve block (since it's like $11 on RockAuto) and O-Ring kit and do the O-rings and new parts. Assuming I don't break any other parts in the process and that everything goes back together nicely - then I'll move on to purchasing the vacuum pump/gauges etc.

Someone mentioned that the pressure readings are not useful for my type of system and that I have to use the inspection port. As far as determining the proper amount of refrigerant, since my system is completely empty, I would just use the capacity spec (which someone mentioned is listed on the under-hood sticker), right? If this is the case, does that mean the gauge set is useless or not? I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, so I can burn that bridge when I get there.
Every one has a liquid line on an AC unit. In fact there are three. First is the small line off the compressor that goes to the condenser coil. From the coil, the second one goes from the coil to the accumulator. The third one goes from there to the evap coil. Where the schrader is is up for grabs. Some, like my original system had them on a king valves. Some will have them on the back of the compressor. Some will be in the hard parts of the lines
Old 07-12-2018 | 07:19 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
Every one has a liquid line on an AC unit. In fact there are three. First is the small line off the compressor that goes to the condenser coil. From the coil, the second one goes from the coil to the accumulator. The third one goes from there to the evap coil. Where the schrader is is up for grabs. Some, like my original system had them on a king valves. Some will have them on the back of the compressor. Some will be in the hard parts of the lines
In reading this I realize it may be based on demographics. Some demographics require top notch skills others only require marginal skills. At the end of the day it depends on what that vent temp is in what ambient temp.
Old 07-12-2018 | 07:26 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
Every one has a liquid line on an AC unit. In fact there are three. First is the small line off the compressor that goes to the condenser coil. From the coil, the second one goes from the coil to the accumulator. The third one goes from there to the evap coil. Where the schrader is is up for grabs. Some, like my original system had them on a king valves. Some will have them on the back of the compressor. Some will be in the hard parts of the lines
Not even going to try and explain how to adjust the Chrysler style temp control unit under the dash so that it kicks in sooner and stays in longer when needed. That tiny snapon flathead screwdriver finally found a use. lol
Old 07-12-2018 | 08:54 PM
  #65  
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
In reading this I realize it may be based on demographics. Some demographics require top notch skills others only require marginal skills. At the end of the day it depends on what that vent temp is in what ambient temp.
If you want to get it down to the gnat's eyebrow, you have to use superheat for a fixed orifice and subcooling for a TXV. But that is beyond the skill of most people unless you have access to humidity readings and tables for whatever refrigerant you are using. Suffice it to say, the gauge on the can sort of works and the sight glass works too
Old 07-12-2018 | 09:09 PM
  #66  
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From: Arizona
Year: 97
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Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ
If you want to get it down to the gnat's eyebrow, you have to use superheat for a fixed orifice and subcooling for a TXV. But that is beyond the skill of most people unless you have access to humidity readings and tables for whatever refrigerant you are using. Suffice it to say, the gauge on the can sort of works and the sight glass works too
Keywords here are to the "gnat's eyebrow". Some can and most can't. In my extreme environment most can't. R134 is not forgiving in our environment and would actually be unusable if it were not for those who understand how to tweek it and make it work. Just enough... Just enough... Barely...
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