Caliper bolt holes are stripped. Heli-coil or Time-Sert ?
#17
Junior Member
Hello All... just did a search to find these posts.... Yes, I have one stripped hole..top on the passenger side of the steering knuckle... I first tried some new bolts from Advance .. Kit H5066... 2 bolts ..2 sleeves...
Well of course that did not work for the top... I had a helicoil kit from Lawn Mower I repaired..... 5/16-18" kit.....I tried it on the bolt... it fit ???.. I thought the bolts and hole were metric..??? What is the correct bolt for this application.... I have a 97 Cherokee 2WD....
Thanks...
Well of course that did not work for the top... I had a helicoil kit from Lawn Mower I repaired..... 5/16-18" kit.....I tried it on the bolt... it fit ???.. I thought the bolts and hole were metric..??? What is the correct bolt for this application.... I have a 97 Cherokee 2WD....
Thanks...
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Hello All... just did a search to find these posts.... Yes, I have one stripped hole..top on the passenger side of the steering knuckle... I first tried some new bolts from Advance .. Kit H5066... 2 bolts ..2 sleeves...
Well of course that did not work for the top... I had a helicoil kit from Lawn Mower I repaired..... 5/16-18" kit.....I tried it on the bolt... it fit ???.. I thought the bolts and hole were metric..??? What is the correct bolt for this application.... I have a 97 Cherokee 2WD....
Thanks...
Well of course that did not work for the top... I had a helicoil kit from Lawn Mower I repaired..... 5/16-18" kit.....I tried it on the bolt... it fit ???.. I thought the bolts and hole were metric..??? What is the correct bolt for this application.... I have a 97 Cherokee 2WD....
Thanks...
#19
Old fart with a wrench
I've found most engine and driveline bolts are SAE or Imperial as the Brits say, and body bolts are metric after about 95 or so. That's just what I have found...for the most part.
#20
Old fart with a wrench
I would say the hardest part is drilling those holes in the knuckle STRAIGHT! One easy way to get them close to perfect is to bolt the caliper bracket on the knuckle on one end with a smaller thru bolt and nut, then you can center and align the drill better, and tap it more or less straight. Do one side, then do the other side of the bracket. Do the side you can get to from the back first. The ball joint may be in the way for the other one, but you can get to that one from the rotor side. Come to think of it, the drill may be larger than the hole in the bracket. If so, do the best you can from the rotor side for both. Be sure to break off the insert drive tang so the bolt will thread thru cleanly. Grind the insert flush so it doesn't stick out on the bracket side. A heli-coil adds the strength of the next size bolt and is stainless steel so it won't rust. It's the perfect answer for exhaust studs in aluminum heads, unless they are threaded into the water jacket.
Last edited by dave1123; 05-15-2020 at 10:14 AM.
#21
Stripped caliper on 99 LHS Chrysler.
Basically the same issue just different car. I have two bolts that attach my caliper to my spindle for my braking system. The bottom bolt stripped when I put the new caliper on and the blots that came with the caliper in. I used a piece of bailing wire in the hole to get home but obovislously not a perament fix. I want to helicoil my bolt hole that is also the sliding bolt that mounts the caliper on to my car (spindle). Is it ok to helicoil this it isn't the streering knuckle like the orginal post, but basically the exact same issue.
Last edited by Universal Contract; 05-15-2021 at 03:16 PM.
#22
Seasoned Member
The bolt can be properly sized by taking it to Home depot or Ace Hardware. They have inside/outside thread identifying gauges hanging in their hardware departments. Ace and/or any auto parts store may have the threaded inserts but I doubt the home improvement stores will. Note about threaded inserts: measure the depth of the hole and cut the threaded insert 1-1/2 to 2 threads shorter than the hole. They grow in length when threaded into the tapped hole. This will allow a fully threaded insert without the need to grind the excess portion off. Thread it in so that the end is one thread below the surface to prevent it from popping out like it will if simply ground flush with the outside surface. BTW, a brand new set of knuckles will run on either side of $200.00 (less if in used condition). I replaced both on my 98 because they were pretty corroded and I was refitting the front suspension and steering components.
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