cam timing set up
#16
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Join Date: May 2015
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It got quite a bit quieter, but didn't take it all away. I have about 2000 miles on this chan now and it already has more slack than I feel comfortable with. Guess it doesn't take much for me though. After dialing in cams on race motors with a degree wheel it doesn't take very much extra slack to aggravate the heck out of me. It's just a personal hang up I guess.
#17
CF Veteran
yeah i got it back together runs stronger but still the clicking on start up. quiets down but this has got worse over the last month. Looks like next stop lifters.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
#18
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah i got it back together runs stronger but still the clicking on start up. quiets down but this has got worse over the last month. Looks like next stop lifters.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
There is a thread discussion here about lifters, Someone discovered it could be wear on the other parts and not actually the lifters. So in reading that discovery I am going to try replacing my pushrods with a new set that are just a few thousands longer. The part number for these engines from Summit Racing just happens to be be slightly longer than OEM. I have that part number if you would like to first try an easier fix? With pushrods the head DOES NOT have to come off like lifters and they were only a couple bucks each.
Last edited by Bugout4x4; 10-08-2017 at 06:03 PM.
#21
CF Veteran
There are other threads that discuss the 48 v. 64 phenom in depth. One of them lists part numbers. While I haven't got to the bottom of it yet, it does seem that there are 48 pin sets out there.
#23
CF Veteran
As an aside I also bought a 3/8 torque wrench, when I started it it was leaking down the front of the pan..I said 'oh no'..but when I torqued the 4 bolts on the pan to 18fl lbs, sure enough they took about 2 turns each..and no more leak. Also I dont know if this was factory, but the oil pan gasket on there was a thick rubber gasket, so thick I decided not to cut it to put the little piece in there for the front of the pan. Just reuse it. No sealer on there so I put none either. Really really thick rubber like the rocker cover felpro, it even looked a little blue. I tried to cut it once with a razor knife but it wouldnt cut thankfully. So I said don't fight what works.
also there is a sequence, tighten the front cover bolts first then the pan.
Also the cover popped right back in the same spot with no battles, as the pan gasket being thick and wide. This turns out to be very important, as the FSM calls for a special tool to set the front cover on the nose of the crank before tightening anything. Didn't need that now, in hindsight. But that could be a pain if you have to do it all over again because the nose isn't centered in the seal.
So now am tempted to go torque the rest of the pan bolts lol.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 10-09-2017 at 11:11 AM.
#24
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well again I must say the Cloyes from NAPA...its in a napa box but says made by cloyes on the print on the back. Just a $60 set...set I put on yesterday..I was pleasantly surprised, it was taunt in every direction..snug and tight out of the box. Very nice just what you expect from a new chain... If it stays that way who knows. It does run nicer for sure.
As an aside I also bought a 3/8 torque wrench, when I started it it was leaking down the front of the pan..I said 'oh no'..but when I torqued the 4 bolts on the pan to 18fl lbs, sure enough they took about 2 turns each..and no more leak. Also I dont know if this was factory, but the oil pan gasket on there was a thick rubber gasket, so thick I decided not to cut it to put the little piece in there for the front of the pan. Just reuse it. No sealer on there so I put none either. Really really thick rubber like the rocker cover felpro, it even looked a little blue. I tried to cut it once with a razor knife but it wouldnt cut thankfully. So I said don't fight what works.
also there is a sequence, tighten the front cover bolts first then the pan.
Also the cover popped right back in the same spot with no battles, as the pan gasket being thick and wide. This turns out to be very important, as the FSM calls for a special tool to set the front cover on the nose of the crank before tightening anything. Didn't need that now, in hindsight. But that could be a pain if you have to do it all over again because the nose isn't centered in the seal.
So now am tempted to go torque the rest of the pan bolts lol.
As an aside I also bought a 3/8 torque wrench, when I started it it was leaking down the front of the pan..I said 'oh no'..but when I torqued the 4 bolts on the pan to 18fl lbs, sure enough they took about 2 turns each..and no more leak. Also I dont know if this was factory, but the oil pan gasket on there was a thick rubber gasket, so thick I decided not to cut it to put the little piece in there for the front of the pan. Just reuse it. No sealer on there so I put none either. Really really thick rubber like the rocker cover felpro, it even looked a little blue. I tried to cut it once with a razor knife but it wouldnt cut thankfully. So I said don't fight what works.
also there is a sequence, tighten the front cover bolts first then the pan.
Also the cover popped right back in the same spot with no battles, as the pan gasket being thick and wide. This turns out to be very important, as the FSM calls for a special tool to set the front cover on the nose of the crank before tightening anything. Didn't need that now, in hindsight. But that could be a pain if you have to do it all over again because the nose isn't centered in the seal.
So now am tempted to go torque the rest of the pan bolts lol.
#25
CF Veteran
What we are running into is that apparently there are two different chains being sold for these engines. One with 48 pins and one with more. This means one is longer than the other and looser after installation. Yours must be the 48 pin chain and probably what these truly should have. I think there may be a foul up with part numbers in some of the store computers when matching application to our engines. I think the longer chain is an improper fit for these.
#28
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#30
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L6
I did some looking around off-site, and it looks like Cloyes has 3 different timing sets depending on model year, but all of the 64 vs 48 pin discussion I've seen has me more confused now than before I started looking!
I'm hoping you fellas get this all sorted out before I replace mine. LOL
I'm hoping you fellas get this all sorted out before I replace mine. LOL