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cam timing set up

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Old 10-08-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Eh it was from napa about $50 for the set. Only reason I know its cloyes is the back of the box said made by.
Did yours quiet down?
It got quite a bit quieter, but didn't take it all away. I have about 2000 miles on this chan now and it already has more slack than I feel comfortable with. Guess it doesn't take much for me though. After dialing in cams on race motors with a degree wheel it doesn't take very much extra slack to aggravate the heck out of me. It's just a personal hang up I guess.
Old 10-08-2017, 05:27 PM
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yeah i got it back together runs stronger but still the clicking on start up. quiets down but this has got worse over the last month. Looks like next stop lifters.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
Old 10-08-2017, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
yeah i got it back together runs stronger but still the clicking on start up. quiets down but this has got worse over the last month. Looks like next stop lifters.
Interesting is the FSM calls for a 48 pin chain. It says "the correct cain has 48 pins. A chain with more than 48 pins will cause excessive slack." Not what I wanted to hear. However the chain that was on there as well as the one I just put on had 64 pins.
You may have nailed down the issue! Because now that I think about it I bought the same brand and set you did. I trusted their computer was fitting me with the right application. I think you found that there just might be a problem with application part numbers and we are all getting an improper chain for these. This would make sense with what I am seeing with mine. Like I say, These are the first engines I have ever worked on that didn't almost have a pre-load tension when installed as new. Except overhead cam engines of course which have a tensioner.

There is a thread discussion here about lifters, Someone discovered it could be wear on the other parts and not actually the lifters. So in reading that discovery I am going to try replacing my pushrods with a new set that are just a few thousands longer. The part number for these engines from Summit Racing just happens to be be slightly longer than OEM. I have that part number if you would like to first try an easier fix? With pushrods the head DOES NOT have to come off like lifters and they were only a couple bucks each.

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Old 10-08-2017, 11:58 PM
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these are the mark locations direct from Chrysler themselves. hope that helps
Old 10-09-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 4LowXJ
these are the mark locations direct from Chrysler themselves. hope that helps
Were are hip to this image and understand it well. Same on all engines. I don't know if you have had one of these apart yet, but they don't quite jive with that diagram like they should.
Old 10-09-2017, 08:58 AM
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There are other threads that discuss the 48 v. 64 phenom in depth. One of them lists part numbers. While I haven't got to the bottom of it yet, it does seem that there are 48 pin sets out there.
Old 10-09-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
There are other threads that discuss the 48 v. 64 phenom in depth. One of them lists part numbers. While I haven't got to the bottom of it yet, it does seem that there are 48 pin sets out there.
After I got mine on I kept looking at it and saying "still too loose". Thank you I will chase that down!
Old 10-09-2017, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
After I got mine on I kept looking at it and saying "still too loose". Thank you I will chase that down!
Well again I must say the Cloyes from NAPA...its in a napa box but says made by cloyes on the print on the back. Just a $60 set...set I put on yesterday..I was pleasantly surprised, it was taunt in every direction..snug and tight out of the box. Very nice just what you expect from a new chain... If it stays that way who knows. It does run nicer for sure.

As an aside I also bought a 3/8 torque wrench, when I started it it was leaking down the front of the pan..I said 'oh no'..but when I torqued the 4 bolts on the pan to 18fl lbs, sure enough they took about 2 turns each..and no more leak. Also I dont know if this was factory, but the oil pan gasket on there was a thick rubber gasket, so thick I decided not to cut it to put the little piece in there for the front of the pan. Just reuse it. No sealer on there so I put none either. Really really thick rubber like the rocker cover felpro, it even looked a little blue. I tried to cut it once with a razor knife but it wouldnt cut thankfully. So I said don't fight what works.

also there is a sequence, tighten the front cover bolts first then the pan.

Also the cover popped right back in the same spot with no battles, as the pan gasket being thick and wide. This turns out to be very important, as the FSM calls for a special tool to set the front cover on the nose of the crank before tightening anything. Didn't need that now, in hindsight. But that could be a pain if you have to do it all over again because the nose isn't centered in the seal.

So now am tempted to go torque the rest of the pan bolts lol.

Last edited by 97grand4.0; 10-09-2017 at 11:11 AM.
Old 10-09-2017, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
Well again I must say the Cloyes from NAPA...its in a napa box but says made by cloyes on the print on the back. Just a $60 set...set I put on yesterday..I was pleasantly surprised, it was taunt in every direction..snug and tight out of the box. Very nice just what you expect from a new chain... If it stays that way who knows. It does run nicer for sure.

As an aside I also bought a 3/8 torque wrench, when I started it it was leaking down the front of the pan..I said 'oh no'..but when I torqued the 4 bolts on the pan to 18fl lbs, sure enough they took about 2 turns each..and no more leak. Also I dont know if this was factory, but the oil pan gasket on there was a thick rubber gasket, so thick I decided not to cut it to put the little piece in there for the front of the pan. Just reuse it. No sealer on there so I put none either. Really really thick rubber like the rocker cover felpro, it even looked a little blue. I tried to cut it once with a razor knife but it wouldnt cut thankfully. So I said don't fight what works.

also there is a sequence, tighten the front cover bolts first then the pan.

Also the cover popped right back in the same spot with no battles, as the pan gasket being thick and wide. This turns out to be very important, as the FSM calls for a special tool to set the front cover on the nose of the crank before tightening anything. Didn't need that now, in hindsight. But that could be a pain if you have to do it all over again because the nose isn't centered in the seal.

So now am tempted to go torque the rest of the pan bolts lol.
What we are running into is that apparently there are two different chains being sold for these engines. One with 48 pins and one with more. This means one is longer than the other and looser after installation. Yours must be the 48 pin chain and probably what these truly should have. I think there may be a foul up with part numbers in some of the store computers when matching application to our engines. I think the longer chain is an improper fit for these.
Old 10-09-2017, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
What we are running into is that apparently there are two different chains being sold for these engines. One with 48 pins and one with more. This means one is longer than the other and looser after installation. Yours must be the 48 pin chain and probably what these truly should have. I think there may be a foul up with part numbers in some of the store computers when matching application to our engines. I think the longer chain is an improper fit for these.
No, they are the same length, just one has 48 pins and one has 64 pins. Manual says not to use a chain with more than 48 pins. There is the rub.
Old 10-09-2017, 12:12 PM
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Did you guys replace the OEM chain? How many pins on it?
Old 10-09-2017, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 97grand4.0
No, they are the same length, just one has 48 pins and one has 64 pins. Manual says not to use a chain with more than 48 pins. There is the rub.
If they are the same length what compensates for the difference between the 48 and 64 number of pins? links longer or shorter?
Old 10-09-2017, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bugout4x4
If they are the same length what compensates for the difference between the 48 and 64 number of pins? links longer or shorter?
Bigger everything on the 48.
Old 10-09-2017, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Tbone289
Did you guys replace the OEM chain? How many pins on it?
Myself I dont know if the one I took off was OE or not. However it too had 64 pins and was stretched like a bandit.
Old 10-09-2017, 12:35 PM
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I did some looking around off-site, and it looks like Cloyes has 3 different timing sets depending on model year, but all of the 64 vs 48 pin discussion I've seen has me more confused now than before I started looking!

I'm hoping you fellas get this all sorted out before I replace mine. LOL


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