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Can I re-ring with the engine in the Jeep?

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Old 07-22-2016, 01:38 PM
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Whoops!

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Old 07-22-2016, 01:40 PM
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Have you worked on engines before? It's a 3 cyl?

You might pick up some oil pressure with new rod bearing inserts. Honing and re ringing use to be a common way to milk some more miles. "I'm just doen rings & rods"...Don't get sucked down the slope, "I'm doing this so I might as well do that" It never ends.

If the head is flat and the valves don't leak diesel poured in the ports, just run it.

Been a while for me...my ring ridge remover is getten dusty!
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:46 PM
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Cam bushings ?
Old 07-22-2016, 01:59 PM
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This sounds like it is in need of replacement more than repair my friend.
Old 07-22-2016, 05:50 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Looks like ill run it into the ground and look into buying a 4Cyl longblock
Old 07-22-2016, 06:48 PM
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It's summer, I run Castroil straight 30W here. Below is cruisers mod for a 4.0, Idk about the 2.5.


Here's the "search all of craigslist" link in case that helps > http://www.searchcraigslist.org/ <




Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod

November 17, 2015 salad 10 Comments
Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box.
A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin.
Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each.

Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover.

Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.
Old 07-22-2016, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
It's summer, I run Castroil straight 30W here. Below is cruisers mod for a 4.0, Idk about the 2.5.
Yeah I've thought about just doing that and a new head gasket to keep it under control. My valve cover CCV opening is always clogged thick with crud. If you think it will help, ill try it. Thanks again for the advice!
Old 07-22-2016, 11:27 PM
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No No. Maybe I missed something. Bad H gasket might be bubbles/combustion gas blowing into the coolant/"water jacket". Quick over hearing. Bad rings that your wet/dry compression shows results in "blow-by", past the rings into the crankcase. My vent to the air cleaner on one of the 7 Jeeps I own just goes back down past the bell housing. Then nothing blowing out of the vent on the valve cover gets on anything.

Nearly in a coon's age, have I had ANY engine fail running Castroil 30w. Cars, trucks, bikes, engines of all sort, Gen's, Roto-tiller, water pumps, mowers, chipper, the old lady's vibrator, Never a ring or rod failure with Castrol straight 30w. I stopped using it to drill and saw, the blades don't cut right. The wet clutch is slipping on my 75 Honda 750-4. It didn't do that when I weighed 270, does now at 290

Last edited by DFlintstone; 07-23-2016 at 12:33 AM.
Old 07-22-2016, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ad-HocXJ
. My valve cover CCV opening is always clogged thick with crud. !
That little sucker (2.6 mm calibrated vacuum leak), has been long since "pissing in the wind", blow-by past the rings is way more than that's gonna suck when it has vacuum at idle, much less with your foot down. Or OK, there IS vacuum throttled, but it isn't going to suck in a bunch of blow-by, just a fraction.

Last edited by DFlintstone; 07-23-2016 at 12:35 AM.
Old 07-23-2016, 12:50 AM
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Took me a bit to find this>

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