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Can I ? (rear axle swap question)

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Old 11-18-2022, 07:28 AM
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Default Can I ? (rear axle swap question)

Hi,
I have a beautiful 87 XJ wagoneer 4.0L.

My rear axle is a D44. I need to swap it with a D35 as mine has issues.
I find no local Cherokee expert so will buy a D35 second hand (probably from a 2.1 diesel XJ) and ask a professional to swap it.

But I have questions

- Will the swap be simple
- Are the rear shafts always the same (universal joints, length, etc) so I can keep using mine (whatever the transfer case / differential)
- What else should I take care of
- What else should I buy before starting the job
- What mistake should I avoir to do

Thanks

I need to prepare everything and bring everything to the shop.
And I feel it might nos be as simple a buying an axle...

Thanks for your help

Last edited by EuroJeep; 11-18-2022 at 08:57 AM.
Old 11-18-2022, 09:29 AM
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For the love of God, do not replace that D44 with a D35. That's a crime against humanity, lol

Why not rebuild the axle? What's wrong with it?

Find a shop that specializes in driveline. Doesn't have to be a Jeep mechanic.

Last edited by Rogue4x4; 11-18-2022 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 11-18-2022, 10:00 AM
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Drive shaft will need to be longer for the D35, and you'll need to make sure you match the gear ratio. X2 on seeing if your D44 can be fixed.
Old 11-18-2022, 10:10 AM
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I will disagree on the driveshaft. The pinion length is the same for the two. But I agree, the D44 is a much better axle and it has huge aftermarket support.
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Old 11-18-2022, 10:56 AM
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I did some more digging, and it looks like about 5/8" different on the snout /pinion length which is probably negligible. I was think it was more.
Old 11-18-2022, 02:26 PM
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Why would you do that? A Dana 35 rear axle is pure junk.
Old 11-18-2022, 02:41 PM
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The D35 is fine for a daily driving and moderate offroading. It's a bit weak for large tires, hardcore wheeling, and a heavy foot though. Also pre-1990 the D35 was a non-c-clip axle which has some advantages. If you have to swap, going with an 8.25 from a newer XJ would be a better choice. The 97+ have a little thicker shafts too. I *think* the spring perches are located in the same place through the years? The only rear axle swap I've done was into an MJ so I had to move the perches anyway (inboard as I recall, kept them on top to do a spring over).
Old 11-18-2022, 03:34 PM
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I have seen Dana 35s with stock sized tires break an axle when being driven on the street.
Old 11-18-2022, 10:10 PM
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Hi. My XJ stays on the road and does a lot of highway at 120/130 km/h.

I discovered the issue with the D44 when changing tires at a dedicated shop. When I push / pull tires in an horizontal axle they move about 0,5 cm in and out.

As the car just left a mechanical shop (Land Rover specialist) for a complete differential check (bearings, etc) for a significant price I went to it, a bit furious.

the guy told me the end of the 2 tubes (wheel side) are oval and not circular where the ball bearings should go. And this is the problem.

i didn’t have the issue before giving him my car. But what can I do ?

as Indisn’t see the problem I just repeat what he said Does it sound to you ? Or is it bull****. ?

I understand he used some glue to keep the bearing in place.


He suggested buying another axle.
Old 11-18-2022, 11:00 PM
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Sounds like a bunch of nonsense to me. An axle tube rarely ever gets oval shaped and the chances of it happening on both sides is almost none, and who uses glue to hold a bearing in?
Old 11-18-2022, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by EuroJeep
When I push / pull tires in an horizontal axle they move about 0,5 cm in and out.
There really shouldn't be any noticeable in/out play if the bearings were just replaced. My guess is the wrong bearings or seals were used or a spacer left out or the retaining rings that hold the bearing in place on the shaft were not fully pressed on. Some retainer plates have a lip that needs to face inward, but I think your D44 retainer plates are flat. Ovaling of the end of the tube is doubtful, but that still won't cause in-out movement because it's the retainer that holds outer race of the bearing in place. They should NOT need to glue or loctite anything in place.

Fixing this is probably going to require pulling bearings back off the shaft and reinstalling the correct parts in the right order and orientation.

Last edited by lawsoncl; 11-18-2022 at 11:19 PM.
Old 11-18-2022, 11:34 PM
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A D44 and the non C clip D35 have tapered wheel bearings and they have had a little side slop since they were first made in WWII. Don't let that bother you at all. It is normal. These Dana axles are not like your Euro cars. Their basic technology is about 60 years old. I have a D44 I just put together that has brand new everything that has that side play. My non C clip Dana 35 has it too. There is one thing about the non C clip D35 I don't like. The axle you have has a nice heavy duty tapered roller bearing for a wheel bearing. Most of the D35, especially after 1990 or so have a roller bearing that rides on the axle shaft itself. If that axle gets pitted from use you have to get new shafts to get rid of the growl. I realize you are across the pond but I think if I looked at it that it would be fine. That is a good half ton truck rear end and it is hard to knock them out

Old 11-19-2022, 08:40 AM
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Any noises from the rearend?

Drain and fill? Any shavings?
Old 11-19-2022, 10:45 AM
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I’ll make a video to make it clear.

I feel like I need another specialist to look at it

tou convinced me to try to keep the D44
Old 11-19-2022, 10:52 AM
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You didn't answer my questions.


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