Ive actually stopped disconnecting the battery and it hasn't been a problem, just my normal driving is keeping it fully charged...I don't know what has changed, during the winter it would just die in a day or two of inactivity, replaced the battery and still had the same issue, maybe 2 or 3 days but still. The battery could be bad, it has died probably twice in its life after I bought it in January, when whatever drain was tanking it after a day or two, but still tests 12.63V. My voltmeter was still saying ~5ACV across battery posts with the battery disconnected so I'm guessing it isn't capable of reading AC with the presence of DC.

I don't have any aftermarket products on it, jeep is all stock. Could it be the ECU needs replacing? I just got a PO443 code today for the solenoid valve wiring, but was still getting ~11V from the plug to the solenoid, so either the valve is bad or the ECU controlling it is.

Im not so sure the alternator is the problem anymore, though its only 13.7~ V when running, which is a little low I guess.

 

What's the condition of the battery cabling? I wonder if you're fighting rotten battery cables or connectors, which can also cause charging issues. I'd also go through all your ground connections and make sure the cables are good and connectors have solid contact with the metal.

 

the terminals are pretty chewed up, ill pick up some news today, but the wiring doesn't look too bad. I cleaned all the grounds which seemed to make a difference actually. Is there any way to test the ECU?

 

My 2000 WJ has run for at least 8 years that I've had it with 13.7v in the system, except when the alternator's bearings started howling and I replaced it.

 

So I changed the battery terminals yesterday, turned on the car to go to work and was greeted with a list of Cel codes!

Code P0135 occurs when the powertrain control module tests the upstream heated oxygen sensor's heater circuit on Bank 1 and detects a short in the circuit or excessive resistance in the heater circuit.

P0141 stands for Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2). It indicates a problem with the heater circuit of engine bank 1's downstream O2

Code P0161 occurs when the powertrain control module tests the downstream heated oxygen sensor's heater circuit on Bank 2 and detects a short in the circuit or excessive resistance in the heater circuit.

P0705 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). This switch is also known as a pressure switch, Park Neutral Position switch (PNP), the gear selection switch, or a PRNDL input switch.

P0443 is an OBD-II generic code that the engine control module (ECM) has detected a malfunction with the purge control valve or its control circuit. This could mean an open or short in the valve or circuit.

Is my ecu going bad? All of these seem to be related to shorts and wiring issues, my cruise control stopped working recently, voltage is an obvious issue happening....

what is going on, how did all of this suddenly happen out of no where

 

So I just went to go investigate the whole O2 sensor issue and now I’m getting 14 codes of other sensors all failing....it’s running fine. Unless someone here has a better idea otherwise, I think the ecu is failing

 

Some updates if anyone is still reading this thread...

So the jeep died after sitting for 3 days, still only reading ~71mA draw, and it is definitely coming before the PDC. I had stripped/uncovered the wiring from the + battery terminal to the PDC, to see if there were any shorts but saw nothing unusual or suspect. I fully disconnected the alternator and saw no change. I only disconnected the hot wire and wiring from the pcm(?) but not the ground and saw no change.

Are the locks before the PDC? How would I go about checking that? I removed the front passenger door panel recently to fix the speaker and everything looked normal in there, though the locks sometimes act up -- could this drain potentially be from that panel (I read the front passenger lock mechanism is the brain for all of the locks)?

I don't know what else to do at this point, but waking up to a dead jeep this morning reminded me I need to do something more permanent. I released I have been disconnecting the ground terminal, but the draw is coming from the hot so I can see a slow drop in voltage, .01V/sec, across the battery when the ground is disconnected.

 

I know you said it had a newer battery, but a 71 ma should not drain a fully charged battery in 3 days. That's less than 10% of the rated capacity of the battery. If you're really measuring 13.7 volts at the battery terminals, and the battery connectors are clean and tight, then you likely have a bad battery.

 

I guess it could be possible...I bought this one in feb or Jan but it has died twice since I bought it (well 3 times now), but I was having this same issue before which was why I replaced it. In the cold it wouldn’t last a day.

I still don’t understand where the draw could be coming from at this point

 

Also, two weeks ago I left the car for 5/6 days with the negative terminal disconnected and it started up just fine. Fully disconnected the battery does seem to drop about .01v/10-15 seconds....and I keep only seeing 71mA, which combined may be the problem.

any ideas of other things to look at?

last year the head was replaced and I never had these battery issues before, other than checking the grounds is there something I should check out knowing this?