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cant get my engine out!!!

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Old 05-22-2009 | 02:33 AM
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MeMpHiS2333's Avatar
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Default cant get my engine out!!!

hey guys i have a 99' cherokee sport. i have to replace the engine because theres a hole on the side of it and it has the worst sludge on earth. but anyways im unmounting all the bolts and on the top of the block where it meets with the transmission cover theres a bolt thats not a bolt.... it like a star bit but i cant get to it real well. i dropped the engine from the engine bolts but i cant get that bolt its really stuck. i had to cut out the other side but i cant do that with this side because of all the wires and i dont have anything that will fit. please let me no wat to do and if theres a special tool that i need let me no...ill get a picture of what im talking about..
Old 05-22-2009 | 07:43 AM
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5-90's Avatar
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
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That would be an external Torx screw - you'll need an E12 socket to remove it. You can usually find a set of E-Torx sockets at Sears (made by Lisle tools,) and I note that Craftsman has started making their own as well.

The screw is threaded 3/8"-16, so match the length underhead and replace it with a standard hex head capscrew - and throw those E-Torx jobs away. They're used because they make production more efficient (that's what the Torx head was developed for,) but they make service & repair a pain...
Old 05-22-2009 | 10:03 AM
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Year: 1989
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Engine: inline 6 4.0L
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How I have gotten it out, is you need to strip engine down, without any accessories and the intake/ exhaust manifold off
connect cherrypicker to engine
remove mounts on the block from the motor mounts on the frame
and finally lower the engine with transmission attached, and you can get to them from underneath, using a very long extension.
Those two bolts are the biggest PITA. Good luck
You may be able to do all this with with the extra stuff on, and the mounts on, but we were not able to with my 89, and it made it a lot easier
Old 05-22-2009 | 11:12 AM
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Just get the E12 socket and put a jack under the crossmember and lower it and use enough extensions to get up there and remove it the right way so you don't strip the bolts. If you do then you have to order them through the dealer.
Old 05-24-2009 | 02:49 AM
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MeMpHiS2333's Avatar
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Originally Posted by okcjeeper
Just get the E12 socket and put a jack under the crossmember and lower it and use enough extensions to get up there and remove it the right way so you don't strip the bolts. If you do then you have to order them through the dealer.
now do i have to have those bolts or can i use my own? and is that the last 2 bolt to remove so i can pull out the engine ? i got the bolts from the flywheel and the other bolts those are the 2 last bolt i c that i need to take out. but am i wrong about that?
Old 05-24-2009 | 04:03 AM
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diskman's Avatar
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by MeMpHiS2333
now do i have to have those bolts or can i use my own? and is that the last 2 bolt to remove so i can pull out the engine ? i got the bolts from the flywheel and the other bolts those are the 2 last bolt i c that i need to take out. but am i wrong about that?

Should be able to take the bolt to the hardware stora and match it up to a new standard HEX head bolt just fine. Makes for easier fixes in the future. As said above - The stupid star bolts are for faster assembly at the plant.
Old 05-24-2009 | 04:12 AM
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Year: 1988
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Engine: AMC242
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Originally Posted by MeMpHiS2333
now do i have to have those bolts or can i use my own? and is that the last 2 bolt to remove so i can pull out the engine ? i got the bolts from the flywheel and the other bolts those are the 2 last bolt i c that i need to take out. but am i wrong about that?
Reread my post - I gave you the nomal thread diameter and pitch, I just can't remember the underhead length. Take one with you, match the length under the head, and throw those E-Torx screws away. Problem solved.

You can use hex socket heads, Torx socket heads (since standard Torx are more common than External Torx,) hex heads, or even studs and nuts like I did (get the studs a good half-inch or so longer than the screw - you'll need room to get the thing into the hole, through the bellhousing flange, and then enough left over to fully engage a nut on the end. It's doable, and I prefer it, but do some small thinking first.)

Alternatively, I may have the length listed on my site - click the link in my sig, and go to the Tech section. You should be able to find the screw chart from there.
Old 06-05-2009 | 11:06 PM
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Default trans torx bolts -easy

Easiest way for me was to remove sheet metal around shifter , then easy access from the floor board hump to reach the bolts
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