carpet still soaked,,after much effort.
11-30-2016, 09:48 PM
#32
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
"i originally cut a 4x4 hole beside the hinge on the firewall" Curious, got a pic of that?
"when i carefully poured water just on the grid it trickled downn that duct,into the area i wanted dammed up!, and a faint trace showed on the pass floor."
Maybe you found it?
To answer the drain, pretty sure the "base" below the cowling just goes over the edges to drain straight out. I've seen in other vehicles those are large enough to allow (Mice), fairly large crap to drain.
11-30-2016, 10:15 PM
#33
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[QUOTE=DFlintstone;3333005]"i originally cut a 4x4 hole beside the hinge on the firewall" Curious, got a pic of that?
"when i carefully poured water just on the grid it trickled downn that duct,into the area i wanted dammed up!, and a faint trace showed on the pass floor."
Maybe you found it?
To answer the drain, pretty sure the "base" below the cowling just goes over the edges to drain straight out. I've seen in other vehicles those are large enough to allow (Mice), fairly large crap to drain.
mice, thats next!!
i could but its ugly, did with air chizel hard to control,butcher job! but i can see that duct now that i know what it is. ill get pix ,ugly who cares.
note that duct you mentioned just keeps water from going down direct into air vent but it is there to let the grid above drain!
its like they kept patching stuff to fix one problem with a new one!
i poured water right in the hole i cut when i saw the duct drip water there. then i realized i have to let that drain into the air vent area just where im trying to keep it out! ANY water in there will end up on my floor like it did for years b4 i bought it. at least i stopped it,,,temporarily
good news, driver side looks ok except for drain onto hinges that may sneak in at door front tops corner, both sides.
if i could duct air in that hole i cut from outside air, id totally seal up the air intake on top. some cars get it thru the inner fender,
i gave up for today,,,tomorrow maybe a new idea.
the answer is cut the top and absolutly seal around the intake. i may get some new disks and cut away, really dont want to!
thur 5 pm, thinking, since i get just a faint trickle, maybe i can pour something in that will plug up the small, tiny, leak spot , like paint. but it cant plug the regular drain opening?. just thinking
"when i carefully poured water just on the grid it trickled downn that duct,into the area i wanted dammed up!, and a faint trace showed on the pass floor."
Maybe you found it?
To answer the drain, pretty sure the "base" below the cowling just goes over the edges to drain straight out. I've seen in other vehicles those are large enough to allow (Mice), fairly large crap to drain.
mice, thats next!!
Curious, got a pic of that?
note that duct you mentioned just keeps water from going down direct into air vent but it is there to let the grid above drain!
its like they kept patching stuff to fix one problem with a new one!
i poured water right in the hole i cut when i saw the duct drip water there. then i realized i have to let that drain into the air vent area just where im trying to keep it out! ANY water in there will end up on my floor like it did for years b4 i bought it. at least i stopped it,,,temporarily
good news, driver side looks ok except for drain onto hinges that may sneak in at door front tops corner, both sides.
if i could duct air in that hole i cut from outside air, id totally seal up the air intake on top. some cars get it thru the inner fender,
i gave up for today,,,tomorrow maybe a new idea.
the answer is cut the top and absolutly seal around the intake. i may get some new disks and cut away, really dont want to!
thur 5 pm, thinking, since i get just a faint trickle, maybe i can pour something in that will plug up the small, tiny, leak spot , like paint. but it cant plug the regular drain opening?. just thinking
Last edited by nujeepguy; 12-01-2016 at 05:10 PM.
12-01-2016, 07:49 PM
#34
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hole cutout
[QUOTE=nujeepguy;3333015]
the pix, yes i know its a mess! i snipped the rough edges after the pix. i can see i need to seal that short lip around the intake. not ez,cant even touch it in back. im working on tubing as advised to me by flintstone to reach hard to get places. gonna try to pump sealer all around. that lip is just 1/4 in.
see the duct in upper left. that drains the screen cover trim thru holes by the two screws at the end.
and i can bend that ugly piece down and cover it with nice shiney aluminum!
"i originally cut a 4x4 hole beside the hinge on the firewall" Curious, got a pic of that?
"when i carefully poured water just on the grid it trickled downn that duct,into the area i wanted dammed up!, and a faint trace showed on the pass floor."
Maybe you found it?
To answer the drain, pretty sure the "base" below the cowling just goes over the edges to drain straight out. I've seen in other vehicles those are large enough to allow (Mice), fairly large crap to drain.
mice, thats next!!
i could but its ugly, did with air chizel hard to control,butcher job! but i can see that duct now that i know what it is. ill get pix ,ugly who cares.
note that duct you mentioned just keeps water from going down direct into air vent but it is there to let the grid above drain!
its like they kept patching stuff to fix one problem with a new one!
i poured water right in the hole i cut when i saw the duct drip water there. then i realized i have to let that drain into the air vent area just where im trying to keep it out! ANY water in there will end up on my floor like it did for years b4 i bought it. at least i stopped it,,,temporarily
good news, driver side looks ok except for drain onto hinges that may sneak in at door front tops corner, both sides.
if i could duct air in that hole i cut from outside air, id totally seal up the air intake on top. some cars get it thru the inner fender,
i gave up for today,,,tomorrow maybe a new idea.
the answer is cut the top and absolutly seal around the intake. i may get some new disks and cut away, really dont want to!
thur 5 pm, thinking, since i get just a faint trickle, maybe i can pour something in that will plug up the small, tiny, leak spot , like paint. but it cant plug the regular drain opening?. just thinking
"when i carefully poured water just on the grid it trickled downn that duct,into the area i wanted dammed up!, and a faint trace showed on the pass floor."
Maybe you found it?
To answer the drain, pretty sure the "base" below the cowling just goes over the edges to drain straight out. I've seen in other vehicles those are large enough to allow (Mice), fairly large crap to drain.
mice, thats next!!
i could but its ugly, did with air chizel hard to control,butcher job! but i can see that duct now that i know what it is. ill get pix ,ugly who cares.
note that duct you mentioned just keeps water from going down direct into air vent but it is there to let the grid above drain!
its like they kept patching stuff to fix one problem with a new one!
i poured water right in the hole i cut when i saw the duct drip water there. then i realized i have to let that drain into the air vent area just where im trying to keep it out! ANY water in there will end up on my floor like it did for years b4 i bought it. at least i stopped it,,,temporarily
good news, driver side looks ok except for drain onto hinges that may sneak in at door front tops corner, both sides.
if i could duct air in that hole i cut from outside air, id totally seal up the air intake on top. some cars get it thru the inner fender,
i gave up for today,,,tomorrow maybe a new idea.
the answer is cut the top and absolutly seal around the intake. i may get some new disks and cut away, really dont want to!
thur 5 pm, thinking, since i get just a faint trickle, maybe i can pour something in that will plug up the small, tiny, leak spot , like paint. but it cant plug the regular drain opening?. just thinking
see the duct in upper left. that drains the screen cover trim thru holes by the two screws at the end.
and i can bend that ugly piece down and cover it with nice shiney aluminum!
Last edited by nujeepguy; 12-01-2016 at 08:00 PM.
12-01-2016, 08:26 PM
#36
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey! Interesting angle of approach! Haven't seen that one. In your photo you can see the gutter business I mentioned that keeps water that might drip from the two RH cowling screws from falling right into the intake.
There is a fairly cheap poly glue, "EU 6000", then there is two part fiberglass resin. That 6000 will flow for a while and eventually cure water proof. I have seen in cold and wet it doesn't set fast. (seen it soft after 24 hrs).
IDK! If you can reach at all , butil rubber or some such applied with rubber gloved hand would likely be better. Or with a vinyl tube fit onto a $4 tube of eu 600 a guy might be able to squeeze a few oz. up above the vent intake. Driving at 65 Mph things are probably whipping all around in there, so what gravity does parked might not solve what happens moving.
There is a fairly cheap poly glue, "EU 6000", then there is two part fiberglass resin. That 6000 will flow for a while and eventually cure water proof. I have seen in cold and wet it doesn't set fast. (seen it soft after 24 hrs).
IDK! If you can reach at all , butil rubber or some such applied with rubber gloved hand would likely be better. Or with a vinyl tube fit onto a $4 tube of eu 600 a guy might be able to squeeze a few oz. up above the vent intake. Driving at 65 Mph things are probably whipping all around in there, so what gravity does parked might not solve what happens moving.
12-01-2016, 08:39 PM
#37
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
[QUOTE=nujeepguy;3333015]
Gotta be a little careful there. The health, (and consciousnesses), of the people in the cab depends on that air being good. Brake dust or whatever vapors from under the hood might not be good.
You will find the leak. It is probably smaller than a pot seed, but once you plug it you'll be fine. (oh, they are about 3/32's dia).
You will find the leak. It is probably smaller than a pot seed, but once you plug it you'll be fine. (oh, they are about 3/32's dia).
12-01-2016, 09:08 PM
#38
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey! Interesting angle of approach! Haven't seen that one. In your photo you can see the gutter business I mentioned that keeps water that might drip from the two RH cowling screws from falling right into the intake.
There is a fairly cheap poly glue, "EU 6000", then there is two part fiberglass resin. That 6000 will flow for a while and eventually cure water proof. I have seen in cold and wet it doesn't set fast. (seen it soft after 24 hrs).
IDK! If you can reach at all , butil rubber or some such applied with rubber gloved hand would likely be better. Or with a vinyl tube fit onto a $4 tube of eu 600 a guy might be able to squeeze a few oz. up above the vent intake. Driving at 65 Mph things are probably whipping all around in there, so what gravity does parked might not solve what happens moving.
There is a fairly cheap poly glue, "EU 6000", then there is two part fiberglass resin. That 6000 will flow for a while and eventually cure water proof. I have seen in cold and wet it doesn't set fast. (seen it soft after 24 hrs).
IDK! If you can reach at all , butil rubber or some such applied with rubber gloved hand would likely be better. Or with a vinyl tube fit onto a $4 tube of eu 600 a guy might be able to squeeze a few oz. up above the vent intake. Driving at 65 Mph things are probably whipping all around in there, so what gravity does parked might not solve what happens moving.
ok, ive got a piece of 1/4 copper tubing bent to miraculousy track! around the vent. ill tape it on a tube of sealer like you did for the fan. i can only hope i get the backside . i decided not to cut anymore on top.
btw, run a cup of water on the windshield about a foot in and see where it comes out with the door open! it all dumps on the hinge area., like my sunroof, now sealed.
after my attempt with the tubing,ill pour something in and see if it gets inside . thenn check or repeat till it stops.
i really dont know where the tiny leak is but im getting closer to ending it,,,not ez!!
btw, no carpet till its bone dry!!!
Last edited by nujeepguy; 12-01-2016 at 09:16 PM.
12-02-2016, 04:21 PM
#39
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
sealed, the messy way
tubing didnt work, couldnt pump thru even though i heated caulk overnite. so i pumped a load direct in then used the paint brush to mop it around back and all around, i used plenty so its a mess but im sure i got it all.
even if the tubing worked i was going to brush it to be sure so skip one step and brush away!!
even if the tubing worked i was going to brush it to be sure so skip one step and brush away!!
12-02-2016, 09:16 PM
#40
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Ha! We appreciate your ingenuity! The clear vinyl tube I pushed onto the tip of my calking tube tip was about 3/8 in, and not easy to pump at that. Can't say I've noticed latex caring much it's cold or warm. (nice feature if you are working ("laying a bead"), near freezing or in over 100*!).
It doesn't cure chemically like fiberglass rosin or epoxy. It "air dries" and will set faster with both warmth and air. (Btw, the before mentioned poly glue needs air to set as well).
A "rookie" mistake I make over and over is to rush it. With just airflow and temps around 50*F or so, 48 hrs might be pushen it. Sometimes I have a sample spot I can check for "cured". If you're drip turns white, you will at least know you found the leak!
It doesn't cure chemically like fiberglass rosin or epoxy. It "air dries" and will set faster with both warmth and air. (Btw, the before mentioned poly glue needs air to set as well).
A "rookie" mistake I make over and over is to rush it. With just airflow and temps around 50*F or so, 48 hrs might be pushen it. Sometimes I have a sample spot I can check for "cured". If you're drip turns white, you will at least know you found the leak!
12-02-2016, 09:39 PM
#41
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you're drip turns white, you will at least know you found the leak!
yeah!! ill be watching. i gooped in about a half tube so there should be plenty and its in the barn for a few days. like that brush huh!! im thinking of marketing them to the jeep industry, should sell a million!!
it was a little hard to get around the outside end, the hood hinge is close to the top of the vent,had to work from right to left in rear, then from front to get to the left side front. i just pumped a glob in and got what i could on the brush end. dont care about looks i hope to button it up soon and get this behind me.
thanks for your help and support. hope it finally works.
btw i poured some water on the driver side windshield. it ran thru that "channel'under the wind rubber and ran out the pass side hinges! lots of places for water to flow/hide. cant try to stop that or may trap water somewhere and cause more rust??
i used up my black silicone on the sunroof,2nd trip around so it should be good and done.
ill report if i get a drop. run the hose in a few days if not freezing.
yeah!! ill be watching. i gooped in about a half tube so there should be plenty and its in the barn for a few days. like that brush huh!! im thinking of marketing them to the jeep industry, should sell a million!!
it was a little hard to get around the outside end, the hood hinge is close to the top of the vent,had to work from right to left in rear, then from front to get to the left side front. i just pumped a glob in and got what i could on the brush end. dont care about looks i hope to button it up soon and get this behind me.
thanks for your help and support. hope it finally works.
btw i poured some water on the driver side windshield. it ran thru that "channel'under the wind rubber and ran out the pass side hinges! lots of places for water to flow/hide. cant try to stop that or may trap water somewhere and cause more rust??
i used up my black silicone on the sunroof,2nd trip around so it should be good and done.
ill report if i get a drop. run the hose in a few days if not freezing.
12-02-2016, 10:27 PM
#42
CF Veteran
I have never had an issue with the gap you mention.
Sunroof is highly suspect. Drain tubes get clogged and leak out. Roof panel can become distorted and leak around sunroof seal. Leak would not necessarily get headliner wet, there is a channel that funnels water into drain tubes.
Sunroof is highly suspect. Drain tubes get clogged and leak out. Roof panel can become distorted and leak around sunroof seal. Leak would not necessarily get headliner wet, there is a channel that funnels water into drain tubes.
X2 I had a sunroof in my last jeep. Factory I believe. The tubes for draining went bad. No shop would/could fix them. They were either clogged or cracked. Someone told me water actually came UP them when you drive through water. I had an issue with wet floors on my drivers side. To test it I duct taped all around the glass on the outside top. It stopped. I then just caulk ed the whole thing. Never opened it anyway unless a chicken was in my jeep.
12-03-2016, 12:35 AM
#43
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
X2 I had a sunroof in my last jeep. Factory I believe. The tubes for draining went bad. No shop would/could fix them. They were either clogged or cracked. Someone told me water actually came UP them when you drive through water. I had an issue with wet floors on my drivers side. To test it I duct taped all around the glass on the outside top. It stopped. I then just caulk ed the whole thing. Never opened it anyway unless a chicken was in my jeep.
i sealed mine with black silicone. the drain tubes were ok but they ended half way down the a pillar and dumped on the hinges, seemed kinda dumb to drain there! different years might be in different places?
ill test for leaks tomorrow i think. hope im done!
12-05-2016, 03:46 PM
#44
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 18 Likes
on
18 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I can't say for sure but that doesn't sound right. I might pour some water down the left, look under and see where it comes out, then check under on the right. Mouse nest, mud packed in? Fir or Pine needles? Fish a coat-hanger up there. Don't think I have ever noticed leaking at the door hinge...on three Jeeps in 20 something years.
12-05-2016, 03:47 PM
#45
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,553
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2000 and 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
SUCESS!
it looks like the inside floor leaks are done. i poured a few small buckets in the cowl area and it grains out each side but so far not inside so the gooped up air intake mess seems to be working. ill test more b4 doing trim to button up.
i still get water down the inside of the "a" pillar from windshield runoff. it sneaks thru and i see no way or reason to stop it. it must be designed that way. if i seal or tape the windshield it may trap water and cause more trouble.
the underside of the driver carpet feels damp but no sigh of water on firewall. might be that "a" pillar drainage hitting the door sill area?
i still get water down the inside of the "a" pillar from windshield runoff. it sneaks thru and i see no way or reason to stop it. it must be designed that way. if i seal or tape the windshield it may trap water and cause more trouble.
the underside of the driver carpet feels damp but no sigh of water on firewall. might be that "a" pillar drainage hitting the door sill area?