Causes of overheating?
#16
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 2000 4.0
What year? What type coolant? Was overflow reservoir full? How often were you adding coolant? What is your oil pressure?
ANY leak is a bad thing to have if you use OAT coolant. It will introduce air into the system and turn coolant brown.
ANY leak is a bad thing to have if you use OAT coolant. It will introduce air into the system and turn coolant brown.
#17
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denison, Texas
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242 inline six HO.
Overheating..
Hello i'm new here, but I had some overheating issue's with my 1991 Lerado. The solution for my xj was, draining everything except the block, and refilling with Valvoline high mileage 50/50 antifreeze. And using ultra blue around every hose fitting and every thing where there could be a leak..Even a very small leak could raise your temp because they have to hold there pressure.Maybe this will help.
#19
CF Veteran
To be honest, this thread is going all over the shop atm.
Lets try to approach this in a somewhat organised way, before shouting things like cracked heads and all.
You now say your waterpump is loosing pressure?? what do you mean? Is it loosing coolant? If so, through the wheephole or along the sides. Your first post mentioned wp and thermo were new, so it would be less likely a pump failure. Leaking d/t poor seal along the edges, ok.
The assumption is made of loosing coolant, but DO you actually loose coolant, because I cant read anything on that.
As a general direction: overheating on highway speeds is usualy more likely radiator issue/blocked, waterpump faulty, thermostat not opening far enough as things to start looking
Overheating while in slow moving traffic or stationary: viscous fan weak, radiator blocked, belt not tight enough etc.
Lets try to approach this in a somewhat organised way, before shouting things like cracked heads and all.
You now say your waterpump is loosing pressure?? what do you mean? Is it loosing coolant? If so, through the wheephole or along the sides. Your first post mentioned wp and thermo were new, so it would be less likely a pump failure. Leaking d/t poor seal along the edges, ok.
The assumption is made of loosing coolant, but DO you actually loose coolant, because I cant read anything on that.
As a general direction: overheating on highway speeds is usualy more likely radiator issue/blocked, waterpump faulty, thermostat not opening far enough as things to start looking
Overheating while in slow moving traffic or stationary: viscous fan weak, radiator blocked, belt not tight enough etc.
#21
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Why? What test or symptom indicates that the crank sensor has failed? What tests have you done to verify that this particular part needs to be replaced?
"Somebody had the same symptoms and replacing that part fixed it, so I'll replace that part." is not troubleshooting, it's stupiding. It's a time-wasting and expen$ive way to fix a car. Sometimes you get lucky and it works, but it's not the smart way to live.
You mentioned a compression test. This is a good place to start, at this point. It's possible you overheated it enough to collapse the rings. The compression test will tell you.
If that's the case, a crank sensor isn't going to do any good. That engine is not going to run until it gets rebuilt.
Test first, then buy parts. Life is much better that way.
By the way, check your rotor. If the rotor tip is broken so that it drags, your timing is badly retarded, which will overheat your engine very quickly.
Don't ask me how I know.
(It was a borrowed car, too!)
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; 10-26-2013 at 08:34 AM.
#22
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Model: Cherokee
Why? What test or symptom indicates that the crank sensor has failed? What tests have you done to verify that this particular part needs to be replaced?
"Somebody had the same symptoms and replacing that part fixed it, so I'll replace that part." is not troubleshooting, it's stupiding. It's a time-wasting and expen$ive way to fix a car. Sometimes you get lucky and it works, but it's not the smart way to live.
You mentioned a compression test. This is a good place to start, at this point. It's possible you overheated it enough to collapse the rings. The compression test will tell you.
If that's the case, a crank sensor isn't going to do any good. That engine is not going to run until it gets rebuilt.
Test first, then buy parts. Life is much better that way.
By the way, check your rotor. If the rotor tip is broken so that it drags, your timing is badly retarded, which will overheat your engine very quickly.
Don't ask me how I know.
(It was a borrowed car, too!)
#23
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Are we troubleshooting an overheating problem or no start here?
Overheating: 99% your cooling system cannot remove as much heat is it is supposed to because it's either dirty or broken. 1% you're making too much heat from running very lean.
I've never heard of a Chrysler dealership giving away free Mopar sensors
Overheating: 99% your cooling system cannot remove as much heat is it is supposed to because it's either dirty or broken. 1% you're making too much heat from running very lean.
I've never heard of a Chrysler dealership giving away free Mopar sensors
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