F1Addict

Not on topic.

Don't care.

freegdr

...LOL...

freegdr

Start your own thread will get answers more specific to your issue....

F1Addict

Any news?

On another note, while messing around with my flasher modules, I switched my blinkers for my hazards and now both work! Only my blinkers worked, previously, hazards just went stupid when I pushed the ****.

So thanks, FirstJeep, you fixed something without even trying.

F1Addict

While we're waiting for FirstJeep to respond I'll outline how this all works.

Power from the fuse block (battery) goes to the "TURN B/U" fuse, the fuse passes that electricity to the "load" side of the fuse block. From there, it goes to the battery side of the flasher module (red box in previous illustration) where it enters the flasher module. When that module detects a load (eg. when you activate the turn indicator) a bi-metal element within the module begins pulsing rhythmically, sending an intermittent +12v to the multi-function switch in the steering wheel hub where it's directed through the harness to the proper lights depending on the position of the stalk. This is what makes your blinkers blink.

There are several potential points of failure:

1. Beginning with power to the fuse.

2. Followed by power from the fuse to the flasher module. A fail here could be caused by something as simple as a blown fuse, by a faulty contact within the block itself (the spring contacts that pinch the fuse blade), or by a bad wire connection from the load side of the fuse block to the flasher module.

3. The next point of failure would be the flasher module which, if bad, may not pass electricity to the load side.

4. Next up would be the wiring between the load side of the flasher module and the multi-function switch.

5. Next in line for failure would be the multi-function switch.

6. Followed by the wiring from that switch to the lights.

7. ...and finally, the lights themselves (bulbs or sockets).

Of course this all relies on proper grounding. You can start at either end of this chain and work your way backward or forward until the failure is found. Personally, I would use the multi-function switch as my "center" and start working towards it from both ends of the circuit. Start with the bulbs and fuse, then bulb sockets and flasher module, then trace the wires back to the multi-switch harness which is a wide, black connector located under the column. If all that checks out then it's got to be the multi-function switch or a wiring issue within the column.

FirstJeep87

Well, I've decided to wait till the end of this month and just have a mechanic look at it. That way I don't cause more issues. Thanks for the help everyone

F1Addict

A quick word of warning, unless your mechanic is a family friend (and maybe even then) they're going to charge a fortune to track something down that you are perfectly capable of doing, yourself. Troubleshooting electrical issues on a 25 year old Jeep isn't easy. It's not technically challenging, you don't need a physics degree to do it but it's time consuming and since mechanics charge by the hour, it's not cheap. Also, the collective technical knowledge and experience here on CF far exceeds that of any single mechanic.

Nothing that has been suggested by me or anyone else (so far) has the potential to end in disaster and you've already dug into this way more than I would ever have expected a 17-year-old girl (or any girl, including a few guys I know) to so for that, you should be proud.

If you have a sudden burst of confidence and a thirst for adventure and feel like you want to try again, let us know... Good luck!

GibsonSG

I agree. I've been following this thread pretty much for my own reference and you've got into it a ways, so just keep on pluggin away, you'll find it.
Look at it this way, the garage will charge between 60 to 90/hr, and they're gettin at least an hour out of you. For that hour, you could get yourself a nifty Home Depot digital Multimeter(around $20-25), that will work well enough for most anything you'll need to do, so that still leaves you at the least $35-40 towards parts and pieces and the satisfaction of doin it your own self.
I hate auto electrical, it isnt rocket science, but like the OP posted, it is time consuming and can be quite frustrating, but like anything else, not impossible. Save your $$, get out there and hit a lick. You've been given some good info and pointers by a couple posters in this thread, so you've got a great starting point. I certainly agree with making the multiswitch the center point and working towards it from both ends of the circut. Chances are very good that isn't the problem, but something most likely simple is. Have at 'er

freegdr

mechanics around here charge average 90 dollars an hour our help is free but its your vechicle . ive been in the automotive repair feild all my life as im sure many others here also are good luck .....

anothadayridin

I agree

Turbo X_J

If you get adventureous see if the wire wrapped around that fuse goes to the stereo. Peeps attempt to wire up the dimmer trigger in the head unit and cause all sorts of havoc with the electrical system / dash lights. Don't crash, you can do this.

FirstJeep87

Put the car into a shop. After changing the turn signal flasher, my power windows stopped working (they were working fine before). Put it in the shop because I was fed up with changing things and causing new things to stop working. My mom's boyfriend is being super generous and is paying for it for my birthday. Cost $650 for a new fuse box and new fuel pump.
Thanks everyone for the help

F1Addict

Thanks for the update, what a cool boyfriend your mom has! I have no doubt you'll have plenty of opportunity to tinker with your electrical system in the future

We're here if you need us.

anothadayridin

That's awesome. Post a pic of your rig

anothadayridin