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changing flex plate

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Old 04-02-2011, 01:01 PM
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Default changing flex plate

ok, im finally ready to tackle the flex plate changing myself. i cant seem to find a write-up of dropping the tranny anywhere. can anyone help here? or write a quick one up? how difficult is it? anything special i need to know? i read that using some LONG grade 8 bolts and just sliding back would be easy, but you still have to disconnect everything, so it just makes sense to drop it out right? also, do you have to move the transfer case or will there be enough room there?

oh and i plan to change the rear main seal while its apart, is there a front main kind of seal for the transmission? if so, what is the proper name?

thanks in advance everyone!
Old 04-03-2011, 09:46 AM
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Noone? I find it hard to believe that noone on here has done this themselves.
Old 04-03-2011, 09:58 AM
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Search or get a haynes manuel
Old 04-03-2011, 10:32 AM
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Put the front wheels on ramps or something higher. Secure vehicle so it cannot roll or fall. Disconnect battery.
Put a jack under tranny, Drop cross member. Then pull drive shafts out.
Unbolt front exhaust pipe from header and let rest on ground, Unbolt starter and bungee off to side.
remove lower bell housing shield, Remove torque converter bolt from fly wheel, You will have to rotate the engine crank shaft to get each one.
lower tranny a little and remove CPS from on top of bell housing disconnect any wiring and shift linkage and start unbolting from motor and pull tranny away from motor about 2 inches finally it should be ready to drop using the jack under it.

Hope that helps. Good luck and be safe.
Old 04-03-2011, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by marvins-my-name
Search or get a haynes manuel
Just to make it clear.. This forum frowns apon these kind of responses to newbies.
It's not in the rules but it's recommended to help people with actual advise than to say "Do a search" because that is how they got to this forum in the first place. And that is why it is here to help people with their technical issues.
Just figured I'd post this so people will understand.
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:50 PM
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Just to add, dropping the trans in your garage can be a huge PITA. You will want a friend to help you out preferably one with mechanical knowledge. IMO the hardest part is lining the trans back up to the motor using a jack, you will want 2 people for this. Also use loctite on the flexplate bolts so they don't come loose on you!
Old 05-10-2011, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepingDan
Put the front wheels on ramps or something higher. Secure vehicle so it cannot roll or fall. Disconnect battery.
Put a jack under tranny, Drop cross member. Then pull drive shafts out.
Unbolt front exhaust pipe from header and let rest on ground, Unbolt starter and bungee off to side.
remove lower bell housing shield, Remove torque converter bolt from fly wheel, You will have to rotate the engine crank shaft to get each one.
lower tranny a little and remove CPS from on top of bell housing disconnect any wiring and shift linkage and start unbolting from motor and pull tranny away from motor about 2 inches finally it should be ready to drop using the jack under it.

Hope that helps. Good luck and be safe.
Hey Dan

Could you give me an idea about how long the job takes?

Assuming (yeah....I know) everything goes well, how long would it take to change the flexplate?

Can it be done as an evening project or would it be more like a Saturday project?

TIA
Old 05-10-2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bobvalli
Hey Dan

Could you give me an idea about how long the job takes?

Assuming (yeah....I know) everything goes well, how long would it take to change the flexplate?

Can it be done as an evening project or would it be more like a Saturday project?

TIA
If your doing it on a driveway then depending how you hustle.. Half day or all week end.
Somebody thats not really experienced I'd give 2 days.
Old 05-10-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by JeepingDan
If your doing it on a driveway then depending how you hustle.. Half day or all week end.
Somebody thats not really experienced I'd give 2 days.
Thanks Dan

Sounding like maybe a Friday night job.
Old 05-10-2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bobvalli
Thanks Dan

Sounding like maybe a Friday night job.
Friday into saturday. Don't forget the beer.
Old 05-11-2011, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepingDan
Don't forget the beer.
Goes without saying
Old 09-27-2015, 06:56 PM
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Default Yes yes yes!

Originally Posted by JeepingDan
Just to make it clear.. This forum frowns apon these kind of responses to newbies.
It's not in the rules but it's recommended to help people with actual advise than to say "Do a search" because that is how they got to this forum in the first place. And that is why it is here to help people with their technical issues.
Just figured I'd post this so people will understand.
well said
Old 09-28-2015, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000xjjeep
i read that using some LONG grade 8 bolts and just sliding back would be easy, but you still have to disconnect everything, so it just makes sense to drop it out right?

Not really. When it comes time to put the trans back in, lining it up can be frustrating. That's why some people prefer the "long bolt method". You do NOT need Grade 8 for this - ordinary Grade 5 will do just fine.


Personally, I don't like using ramps for this job. 4 jack stands are much better. Your budget will decide which way you go.

NEVER use a jack to support a vehicle while you are working under it!


BTW, save your money. Haynes & Chilton manuals are garbage. Get a proper FSM (Field Service Manual) for your year Jeep. You can find them online. That's the factory service manual put out by Chrysler. They are about the same cost as buying an often incorrect, and ALWAYS incomplete, Chilton or Haynes.

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