DFlintstone

I'm no real help of the wiring/function of the thing. If I had one out (and a helper) and saw that moving the float didn't move the needle..I'd know ether the unit or it's wires were boogered. I've done that and seen it work. (I mean she said the needle moved correctly).

Firestorm500

Wouldn't you have to run a ground wire from the float assembly to the vehicle (if it's out) to make it work correctly?

DFlintstone

WAZ years ago. Yes I had the wires connected and a helper watching the gauge.

cruiser54

Leave it plugged in...

Or this?

http://cruiser54.com/?p=249

iweb

I read on Autozone where a guy that bought a pump like mine put it in and both the pump and gauge would not work. He pulled it out and reversed the two non ground leads and everything worked ok.

So I made a jumper and swapped the two leads and the gauge went down to empty plus the low fuel light came on but the pump did not work. I took my jumper out and plugged the connectors back in and spliced in a long ground wire that I ran up and connected to the neg battery post and gauge still reads full but of course the pump works.

JK253

Yeah, apparently there's no standard when it comes to fuel pumps. When I replaced the one in my YJ, it looked identical to the factory one except the leads were reversed for whatever reason.

DFlintstone

Nice Pete. Note to all, Oxyguard MIGHT be a conductor, so use caution using it on things like relay prongs. (I wouldn't want a conducting jell arcing across to another prong) It happens my meter registers no continuity through it, so I don't see myself what separates it from Dialectic grease, or bearing grease for that matter. Keeping air and water out of crimp/plug/clamped connections works great, that's for sure.