changing rear differential fluid
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
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Year: 2001 Sport Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
changing rear differential fluid
Do i've to use brake cleaner when changing the rear diff fluid, is there a drain plug? Can i mix 80 -w90 with 85 - w 140?
I hear a clunking noise when i lift my foot off the gas pedal above 45 km/ hr and it disappears as soon as i press the pedal again. What is happening and will an oil chage stop it??? Thanks in advance.
I hear a clunking noise when i lift my foot off the gas pedal above 45 km/ hr and it disappears as soon as i press the pedal again. What is happening and will an oil chage stop it??? Thanks in advance.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Factory covers don't have drain plugs, only a fill plug. Don't mix viscosities. You can spray brake cleaner in there if you'd like. Clunking is often worn u-joints or splines in the driveshaft that need to be greased. You have to remove the driveshaft to grease the splines.
#3
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 15
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Better quality differential covers have drain plugs built-in for ease of changing without removing the cover. I change mine often and have them on both of mine for quick changes and inspections of fluids.
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 4
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
To elaborate further. If the jeep is a DD, a good quality oil is sufficient for a good while. Open up the diff cover, over a lube locker gasket, IMHO worth the money, and clean down with brake cleaner, close and re fill. 75(80)-90 for normal diff. 75(80)-140 for a towing rig. Don't mix oil. If you go off-road often and water crossings, use a cheAper low cost oil since you'll be changing it every water crossing providing the wTer goes above the axles. I know this all seems in organized how I typed it but I'm a few beers in. As for the clunk, that's probably the u joints. Also give more details of your jeep. Year. Lift?. DrivetrAin etc
#5
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
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Year: 2001 Sport Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thank you so much for your replies, i have a cherokee sport 2001, automatic transmission, 8.25" chrysler rear diff. And 2" lift kit (fox dampers and oldman coil springs), wheel spacers, 255x75 tyres. Can i identify a worn u joint from its shape? And do i have to disassemble the rear diff to grease the splines?. Shall i wash the brake cleaner with some of the new oil?
#6
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Lube locker is overpriced for what it is. I use Fel Pro gaskets instead of RTV. They are always in stock at Advance, Auto Zone for $3.99. Greasing the splines requires removing the driveshaft, and does not require opening up the differential at all. For u-joints you basically hold both sides of the driveshaft on each side of the u-joints and twist back and forth and see if there is slop in the joint.
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#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
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Year: 2001 Sport Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've checked the u joints both joints for both shafts and they were ok. I hope the oil change would solve the problem. I opened the fill plug yesterday after a long trip and i've found bubbles and foam in the fluid. The fluid was pale green and smelly. I haven't changed the fluid yet.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's not uncommon for fluid to be slightly yellow or green. Gear oil should stink.
Synthetic 75w-140 is specified for heavy duty use.
If you aren't crossing streams or breaking axles all the time its unlikely you need to change the fluid that often. I change mine every 30,000 mostly because I like to pull the cover and look inside.
Synthetic 75w-140 is specified for heavy duty use.
If you aren't crossing streams or breaking axles all the time its unlikely you need to change the fluid that often. I change mine every 30,000 mostly because I like to pull the cover and look inside.
#13
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 31
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Year: 2001 Sport Limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's not uncommon for fluid to be slightly yellow or green. Gear oil should stink.
Synthetic 75w-140 is specified for heavy duty use.
If you aren't crossing streams or breaking axles all the time its unlikely you need to change the fluid that often. I change mine every 30,000 mostly because I like to pull the cover and look inside.
Synthetic 75w-140 is specified for heavy duty use.
If you aren't crossing streams or breaking axles all the time its unlikely you need to change the fluid that often. I change mine every 30,000 mostly because I like to pull the cover and look inside.
#14
Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 197
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#15
Senior Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 672
Likes: 5
From: Colorado
Year: 2001, 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
At the beginning of a trip when the car is cool the sound is barely heard. But after a while the sound starts to get louder at the same speed range. How can i grease the splines? Should i have a greaser or apply the grease by hand and what ammount shall i use? And shall i grease before or after fluid change? If i opened the diff cover do i still have to remove the drive shaft to grease the splines? Thanks alot for your kind help
The noise you are describing sounds more like some type of bearing failure.