cheap lockers
#46
#48
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,053
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From: Ft. Lewis, Wa
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#49
well... ill jump in on this one.
Stock vehicles are mostly "open" differential or " "one tire fire" .. a locker will make both wheels turn at the same time all the time. really good for mud, rock crawling, pretty much anything. if you get one of the wheels off the ground then the other wheel on the ground will still have power to it.
pretty simple.
Stock vehicles are mostly "open" differential or " "one tire fire" .. a locker will make both wheels turn at the same time all the time. really good for mud, rock crawling, pretty much anything. if you get one of the wheels off the ground then the other wheel on the ground will still have power to it.
pretty simple.
#50
well... ill jump in on this one.
Stock vehicles are mostly "open" differential or " "one tire fire" .. a locker will make both wheels turn at the same time all the time. really good for mud, rock crawling, pretty much anything. if you get one of the wheels off the ground then the other wheel on the ground will still have power to it.
pretty simple.
Stock vehicles are mostly "open" differential or " "one tire fire" .. a locker will make both wheels turn at the same time all the time. really good for mud, rock crawling, pretty much anything. if you get one of the wheels off the ground then the other wheel on the ground will still have power to it.
pretty simple.
#52
yea it just sucks that you have to replace the carrier in the front. i remember this guy at the shop told me id have to do that when i regeared. its only like $70 but still... regearing is first and foremost but that wont be happeneing for a loooong time. Mines a stick though if i regear ill still get better mpgs just like you AW4 guys right?
And I know we're talking about a rear 8.25 but here's a quick write up I did for a front D30 in a TJ...I believe if you have 3.55's or lower gears you won't need to remove the carrier - only the PS bearing cap.
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The short version...
Remove tires (3/4")
Remove calipers (2 - 1/2" bolts per side)
Remove axle hub assembly (3 12pt 13mm bolts per side)
Remove diff cover (10 1/2" bolts)
Remove passenger side bearing cap (2 5/8" bolts - make sure you put it back on the same way!)
Remove roll pin and cross shaft (3/16" drift pin with straight shaft)
Remove side gears and pinion mate gears (keep track of side gear shims)
Install Aussie (refer to instructions)
Re-install bearing cap (5/8" - 45 Ft. Lbs.)
Re-install axles (make sure the axle guide is still on - 3 12pt bolts each side - 75 Ft. Lbs.)
Re-install calipers (2 1/2" bolts per side - 11 Ft. Lbs.)
Re-install tires (5 3/4" lug nuts per side - 95 Ft. Lbs.)
Put diff cover back on and fill with oil (10 1/2" bolts 30 Ft. Lbs. - Gear Oil - 1.2 L (2.5 pts.) of 80W-90)
Go wheelin' !
The tools you'll need...
Jack
Jack stands
3/4" socket - or whatever you use to remove the tires
12pt 13mm socket (calipers, axle hub assembly and diff cover bolts)
3/8" ratchet and extensions (for the above listed items)
zip ties (to tie up the calipers)
5/8" socket (bearing cap)
1/2" drive ratchet with a 3" extension (to remove the bearing caps)
3/16" drift pin (to remove the roll pin)
ball peen hammer
gasket sealant (and something to scrape the old gasket off!)
gear oil
Small flat head screwdriver (to put the Aussie springs in)
Torque wrench
I think that's everything...
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