Cherokee Pioneer
#32
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wisconsin
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Model: Cherokee
You said that 4.0's were more common than the 2.5's in your area, I was hoping to point out that many of the parts you might need are the same for either engine, and except for the housing the AW4 is also the same. That's what I meant by saying they shouldn't be too hard to find.
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I'm from Czech Republic.
I solved few problems, like interior lighting, door lock (only disconnected rod from lock), and now I must clean the car from mud.
Is housing on transmission interchangable, or is it only one piece? If internal parts are same, it will be easy to find and repair transmission with parts from AW4 from 4.0. I have two other cars and one has housing on transmission removable and one has not . Then I must clean the grounds on engine, because electrics is acting little bit weird.
I solved few problems, like interior lighting, door lock (only disconnected rod from lock), and now I must clean the car from mud.
Is housing on transmission interchangable, or is it only one piece? If internal parts are same, it will be easy to find and repair transmission with parts from AW4 from 4.0. I have two other cars and one has housing on transmission removable and one has not . Then I must clean the grounds on engine, because electrics is acting little bit weird.
Last edited by Jelen; 03-20-2013 at 05:26 AM.
#34
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Thread Starter
So today I had first problem. After about 20 miles of ride, there was lost of power, engine starts shooting to exhaust, and slowing down. Idle was bad, but still running, after pushing on the gas pedal, car starts shooting into exhaust. After engine stop and new engine start it was few miles ok, than again. Has anybody any idea? For refresh, car is 2,5L gas, 1987.
#36
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Thread Starter
Yes, backfiring throug exhaust. Starts good, but after few miles it losts power more and more. And it has not very much power. I will put new fuel filter, and also fuel pump has weird sound. But it may be ok. It starts after about 30 miles on mix of classic fuel and E85, maybe E85 dissolve some mess in the fuel tank and block the filter
#37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Some news. Fuel filter is clean, I think, fuel pressure is ok, because cold car has no problem. When car starts heat to common temperature, after few miles, engine starts loose power, and than don't want go to higher RPMs. Than, when I stop the car and put neutral, and put gas pedal to the floor, engine don't want go to higher RPMs too. It starts going rough. Than I stop the engine, I must wait few seconds, than starts and go very well, but only few hundert meeters, than goes rough again.
#38
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
If you Jeep has catalytic converter, it may be clogged.
Is "classic" fuel unleaded? I would not use E85 in your engine. It is not rated or designed for it.
If classic fuel is leaded, and you have a converter, you have probably damaged it.
Is "classic" fuel unleaded? I would not use E85 in your engine. It is not rated or designed for it.
If classic fuel is leaded, and you have a converter, you have probably damaged it.
#39
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I'm using unleaded fuel, Natura 95, There was only few liters E85 inside, I'm using it in my Ford Mondeo, in summer I'm going on pure E85, in winter I must mix it, because cold starts are not very good. But here I tested only few liters in ordinary unleaded fuel, adn problem occured after about 30-40 miles, but I think, it's only coincidence. I have on my fuel gauge sign Unleaded fuel only, so I think, it has catalytic converter, but I don't think so, that it has any influence on engine running, I know a lot of people, who cutted catalytic converter of, and replaced with pipe, and after it, engine runs normally. I think, it has influence only on emission, no?
#41
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
If the downstream (after the converter) O2 sensor is damaged, it can certainly affect the way an engine runs.
You can damage it by removing the converter or by using the wrong fuel.
We can't talk about converter removal on this forum.
You can damage it by removing the converter or by using the wrong fuel.
We can't talk about converter removal on this forum.
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
We have emission testing every two years, so I can't remove this thing out. O2 sensor, do you mean Lambda sond? It isn't after (behind? I'm not really good in english :-D ) catalytic converter, but it's afer exhaust pipes from engine, if we talking about one thing with three wires, that: http://www.biopowers.cz/domain/biopo..._sonda_003.jpg
#43
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Today I found loosen grounding strap, from firewall to engine head, it wasn't properly tightened, I loosened it by hand only, so I cleaned it and connected again, but with no change, also I cleaned that big connector on firewall it was full of any grease, but also no change. Exhaust isn't clogged, because when I put hand just behind the exhaust, it is OK. When I had clogged exhaust on my LADA, it was totally different. I can recognise it by the flow of exhaust air.
#45
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Radi: yes, I think so, I will try it. My friend has this gauge. How many bar shoud fuel pressure has? 4? Maybe fuel pump, still filter (I only cleaned it with fuel and compressed air), or fuel pressure limiter? Or injector? But why it happends only, when engine is warm?