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chrysler 8.25 cross pin wont come out

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Old 07-31-2017 | 05:00 PM
  #31  
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Nice work, Marc. Thanks for sharing the images. I have to do the bearings on mine in the near future, and your process really helps me understand what's in there.
Old 07-31-2017 | 06:27 PM
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oldtires im getting a lot of help from you guys on the forum with different issues aswell and hopefully i can contribute to this.

5-speed: no i didnt meassure backlash how is that even accurate with all that play in the bearings ? i did make a lot of pictures before i took it apart thought that might help later on.
Old 07-31-2017 | 08:32 PM
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wear gloves or a rag around the chisel before you pound on it btw my wife just picked 6 metal splinters out my hands.
Old 08-03-2017 | 04:49 PM
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after cleaning the parts ive noticed the side adjusters are damaged, ive called oreilly, autozone, napa and checked online with advanceautoparts but none of these stores could help me, i ended up going to the dealer and ordered them there for 27$ a piece with a 3 to 5 day wait. the bearings caps are in good shape luckly those arent damaged.

marc

Old 08-04-2017 | 09:04 PM
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one step futher

ive put the carrier into the freezer for 2 days and got it down to 6.8 degrees farenheit thats like -14 celcius, warmed up the oven up to 240F in the main time i wrapped the bearings in aluminimum foil and put them in the oven for 25 minutes once it was warmed up. 5 minutes before the bearings had to come out i took the carrier out the freezer and placed it on the working bench and rubbed a tiny bit of grease around the colar/neck of the carrier. then with oven mit i took one bearing out the oven and placed it on the carrier (hoping i was a mythbuster here and it would slide right on), the bearing didnt slide on i used the old inner race from the cut off bearing up-side-down so the smaller part would ONLY touch the inner race of the new bearing and not the rollers! be careful with that part. tapping with a dead blow hammer didnt work for me hardly any movement i ended up getting a regular hammer and started tapping left right left right etc sometimes in circular motion. keep the old race right on place was not easy untill the bearing goes down that far that the colar starts sticking out and you have a much better surface to give it the final taps. also having the carrier on the wooden bench with a metal plate underneath was not good enough, i put the carrier on concrete floor and continued to tap that worked a LOT better with a solid underground.

marc

Old 08-04-2017 | 10:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by LadyKenai
one step futher

ive put the carrier into the freezer for 2 days and got it down to 6.8 degrees farenheit thats like -14 celcius, warmed up the oven up to 240F in the main time i wrapped the bearings in aluminimum foil and put them in the oven for 25 minutes once it was warmed up. 5 minutes before the bearings had to come out i took the carrier out the freezer and placed it on the working bench and rubbed a tiny bit of grease around the colar/neck of the carrier. then with oven mit i took one bearing out the oven and placed it on the carrier (hoping i was a mythbuster here and it would slide right on), the bearing didnt slide on i used the old inner race from the cut off bearing up-side-down so the smaller part would ONLY touch the inner race of the new bearing and not the rollers! be careful with that part. tapping with a dead blow hammer didnt work for me hardly any movement i ended up getting a regular hammer and started tapping left right left right etc sometimes in circular motion. keep the old race right on place was not easy untill the bearing goes down that far that the colar starts sticking out and you have a much better surface to give it the final taps. also having the carrier on the wooden bench with a metal plate underneath was not good enough, i put the carrier on concrete floor and continued to tap that worked a LOT better with a solid underground.

marc

Nice work, Marc. I had the same thing happen to me when I replaced the pinion bearing on the Dana 30. Like you I tried the oven/freezer method and failed - had to tap it in like you did using the old bearing cup.

For the adjusters, I wouldn't buy new ones. I would use a smaller Dremel grinder to clean the warped grooves and smooth them out so they don't damage the threads in the cups. You are still going to have plenty of thread mating to hold tight.

Last edited by OldTires; 08-04-2017 at 11:06 PM.
Old 08-04-2017 | 10:47 PM
  #37  
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I have put the carrier in the freezer before when installing new carrier bearings but found it to be somewhat counterproductive, because when the bearings are hot and the carrier is cold it cools the bearings down too quick when you go to put them on the carrier. I have had better luck with just heating the bearings in the oven at 300* and leaving the carrier at room temp before pounding the bearings on with the old race.
Old 08-05-2017 | 06:13 PM
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thanks for the reply and both you guys are right but i would like to disagree

one of the side adjusters is damaged all the way around which is hard to make a picture of and coming such a long way of doing all this i guess putting in new ones is a piece of mind knowing they are ok .. but they would probably work 1 i know will for sure.

having the carrier cooled down that much i believe did make the job easier cause having the bearings in the oven for 25 minutes i think was too short but i didnt want to risk over heating them, ive read somewhere that a bearing should not be heated hotter than 257F cause it will lose its strength or structure in the metal.

but thats just my personal opinion either way would of probably worked.
i did my bearings on my 88 xj on a dana 35c which has the bearings pressed onto the axle and i didnt use any heat at all and i really had to pound those on, the carrier with the heat and cold difference made it easier it was tapping and a bit of hammering but certainly no pounding.

i had some of my information from here: http://www.lubsys.com/knowledge/knw_heatmnt.htm

marc.

Last edited by LadyKenai; 08-05-2017 at 06:29 PM.
Old 08-09-2017 | 07:04 PM
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well.. 'there she be' .. this is just for the picture, all parts are in finally..

having the carrier on the bench was good to get familar with the spider gears i did take everything apart again.

the 2 new side adjusters were cheaper than they said at first it was 34$ for the 2 including tax so thats not a bad deal for original Mopar. (it did take 9 days before the dealer finally had them)


Last edited by LadyKenai; 08-09-2017 at 07:11 PM.
Old 08-09-2017 | 09:01 PM
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Excellent.
Old 08-18-2017 | 05:15 PM
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ok, bought an universal dial indicator that measures 0 to 1 inch in 0.001 increments for 22$ autozone and fabricated my own mount from metal pieces i had laying around to make adjusting easier cause it hinches at 3 points which is perfect to get the idicator just on the right spot.

marc


Last edited by LadyKenai; 08-18-2017 at 07:14 PM.
Old 08-18-2017 | 06:15 PM
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Old 08-19-2017 | 10:33 AM
  #43  
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I assume you didn't take the measurement before taking it apart? Or painted the gears to take note of the ring / pinion pattern?

I guess if you look carefully at the ring you will be able to see the wear pattern and try to get it there again.

This is from my 1996 FSM on the 8 1/4. Don't know if you have it - in case you don't. Hope it helps.

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Old 08-19-2017 | 06:16 PM
  #44  
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thank you oldtires, i will need some gear marking compound.. see where we find that, i see Richmond 5500011 gear marking compound is recommended

Amazon Amazon

they dont seem to have that at the local carpart store, probably going to be online order

marc
Old 08-21-2017 | 01:17 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by LadyKenai
thank you oldtires, i will need some gear marking compound.. see where we find that, i see Richmond 5500011 gear marking compound is recommended

https://www.amazon.com/Richmond-Gear...productDetails

they dont seem to have that at the local carpart store, probably going to be online order

marc
You can use anti sease to mark the gears. Every auto parts store sells that.



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