Chrysler 8.25 VS Dana 44
#46
Yeah...um, whoever told you that is completely wrong.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
#47
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by desertdog
My hearing and my memory are outstanding. I highly doubt I heard wrong. I think it's worth pointing out that anything requiring compressed air to hold it in place is prone to fail. Air lines and seals leak. Why do you think semi trucks use air to turn the brakes OFF instead of ON? because air fails. So for those of you that love your ARB, which cost what, $800 plus? More power to you. For my money an auto locker in the back is adequate. Maybe a mechanically operated selectable in front, but that depends on where you try to go with the Jeep too.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
#48
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
Prone to failure? Not really. I've ran an arb without issues, many customers without issues, and my boss has had the same arb for over 15 years.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
#49
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: HUNTSVEGAS AL.
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 renix 4.7 soon to drop back in
Aussie Locker XD-58229 Chrysler 8.25 29 Spline $299.99 they just got them back in stock yesterday . i luv em ya can't beat em
#50
My hearing and my memory are outstanding. I highly doubt I heard wrong. I think it's worth pointing out that anything requiring compressed air to hold it in place is prone to fail. Air lines and seals leak. Why do you think semi trucks use air to turn the brakes OFF instead of ON? because air fails. So for those of you that love your ARB, which cost what, $800 plus? More power to you. For my money an auto locker in the back is adequate. Maybe a mechanically operated selectable in front, but that depends on where you try to go with the Jeep too.
Do you believe everything you hear? Especially with something you admitted to having NO first hand experience with?
Do you even know what having a locked front or rear is like??? You don't "think" you're locked in. You KNOW.
So how the hell are you criticizing something you have NO firsthand experience with?
Cost difference?
You keep your auto locker in the rear that cost you X amount less. Then when you are buying new rubber for your rears exponentially more than I am because I've got a more advanced, better system, we can talk about how much more my ARB is.
Try thinking of the long run.
Oh, and before you start 'bashing' a product you clearly know nothing about...learn how it functions first.
The ARB system uses a compressor and small tank, very similar to a setup in your garage. Once the reserve tank reaches a certain pressure, the compressor stops. Even if you do manage to put a small hole in the cheap air line, or you mess up a seal and have a slight leak, the compressor and tank will more than compensate giving you the full lock you need.
Prone to failure? Not really. I've ran an arb without issues, many customers without issues, and my boss has had the same arb for over 15 years.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
You're clearly not familiar with arb's
For street driveability and sheer strength... the arb is miles ahead of ANY auto locker.
if you just want a locker, dont mind the little harshness of the streetablility, and a little backlash feel then go with the Detroit locker. get the new detroit soft locker, i heard they are nice. i have a detroit locker in the back and love it. i drive on the street every day to work, then wheel on the weekends (and sometimes on the way home from work).
For those of you having issues with price, there was a front ARB locker for sale a month or so ago for $250.
Last edited by Gee oh Dee; 03-09-2011 at 01:00 PM.
#51
chill out, gee. I was never "bashing" the arb. I suspect it's one of the best airlockers on the market. i was told by someone who had one that wouldn't stay locked, apparently. probably a bad air leak. and, repeating that information was an un-informed opinion. however, i am sticking to my guns regarding reliability of an air system vs mechanical. i'll take an OX over ARB 10 times out of ten. and for us poor bastards, an auto locker in the rear is usually a pretty good compromise. is everybody happy now?
#52
#53
T-Bus:
It is true that the dana 44 has 30 spline shafts, while the 8.25 has 29 splines, but the shaft diameter difference is 1.31 for the d44 while the 8.25 is 1.21 or a difference of .1. Buying the 1541H shafts more than make up for the .1 diameter difference and cost about 200.00 for the set.
A full carrier locker for the 8.25 replaces the weaker open carrier and still has stronger axle tubes, and the pinion and pinion bearings are .25 inches larger. So if you already have a Dana 44, keep it and upgrade it, if on the other hand you have a Chrysler 8.25 buying the 1541H shafts and a full carrier type locker will be much cheaper and it will be as strong as a Dana 44 or so close to as strong that it is not worth comment.
It is true that the dana 44 has 30 spline shafts, while the 8.25 has 29 splines, but the shaft diameter difference is 1.31 for the d44 while the 8.25 is 1.21 or a difference of .1. Buying the 1541H shafts more than make up for the .1 diameter difference and cost about 200.00 for the set.
A full carrier locker for the 8.25 replaces the weaker open carrier and still has stronger axle tubes, and the pinion and pinion bearings are .25 inches larger. So if you already have a Dana 44, keep it and upgrade it, if on the other hand you have a Chrysler 8.25 buying the 1541H shafts and a full carrier type locker will be much cheaper and it will be as strong as a Dana 44 or so close to as strong that it is not worth comment.
#54
I ran my 99 Sport with the 8.25, 29 spline shafts, 4.10 gears, 32's with an Aussie in it for several years and never had a problem. I could not justify shelling out the extra time and money to pull a D44 out from a yard, rebuild it and swapping it out of my XJ when the 8.25 under it was just as good. Unless you are getting in to some heavy HP high RPM challenges, I see no need to get anything else. This was my DD and was well mannered on the road and kept up with many other rigs sporting D44's, 14 Bolt etc.
#55
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
$450s shipped to your door is a pretty good price for a D44... but I'd go with the 8.25, should be plenty strong for your needs. I got my 97'+ 8.25 (29 spline) for $100 already pulled. I wasn't planning on upgrading until I saw it for sale, but figured it's cheap insurance.
#56
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,529
Likes: 1
From: somewhere Gee oh Dee cant find me...
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
full carrier type locker is like a detroit, ARB, or Ox, it replaces the the original carrier. and they dont make spools for 8.25s btw
#57
Yeah...um, whoever told you that is completely wrong.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
I've got an ARB and there is not repeated button pushing.
1 button activates the compressor, 1 button activates the locker.
Once both are pressed, your completely locked until you turn off the switch, snap an axle, or rip off an airline.
Being that you have no first hand experience, maybe you think someone told you this, but you just heard incorrectly.
I had a set of arbs in a jeep I had, they were an older style of button, the bottons broke and wouldnt stay on, so to actually turn on the compressor and lock the axles I had to hold down the buttons. eh at least it made for a but of fun wheeling, hot to make sure I was in the right gear then hold the buttons throught the obstacle, lol.
#58
OK - So if I leave the 8.25 in the rear, what front end should I use? I've been told by several people that the D30 front is Junk. Right now I'm stock as far as horsepower but I'm looking into building a stroked 4.0.
Last edited by Black_XJ; 11-17-2011 at 08:50 PM.
#60
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 334
Likes: 1
From: Cali
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Good thread gents! I have a D35 and decided to go the C8.25 rout. I pulled the trigger on a junk yard 27 spline C8.25, picket up a 29 spline carrier, 4.56 gears, 29 spline Yukon ally shafts and a spartan lunch box locker. Gears are being installed this week and I hope to drop it this weekend.