So I just picked up my AX-15 last night
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/pi...36/#post655079

its been sitting for a while empty in a garage, with the shift tower out, anybody know something good to clean that thing out pretty well?

I was thinking to buy a few bottles of seafoam and letting it sit for a while day or 2

Any ideas or opinions or comments on this?

 

nobody?

am I the only one who rows the gears in his XJ?

 

I wouldn't put seafoam in there. I'd just fill it up with lube when you install it, run it for a couple min, then dump and refill. Repeat until fliud is clean..

 

I had the same thought initially but gear oil is expensive, seafoam isnt. see my train of thought

 

Use the old oil you have in your existing gearbox and buy new for the change. Don't put any solvent in a gearbox, it will soak the synchromesh ring pads and wear them out. It doesn't matter if there is some dust or other dirt in the tranny, the important thing is that there aren't metal parts that don't go away with seafoam anyway.

 

interesting idea, ill empty my trans and put it in there and run it...

thanks man I hadnt thought of that

 

10w30 motor oil to flush it. non-synthetic.



DO NOT put seafoam in it. that will destroy the brass synchros.


as far as new gear lube, you MUST run a GL4 grade only fluid. GL5 will destroy the brass synchros. they are made of a brass compound that doesn't work with a gl5 grade lubricant.

 

and....when you're flushing it, do it on the ground with a drill on the input. shift it through the gears while you're running it.

 

Good info there

thats probably why I had these problems in the first place, when I bought it I filled it up with Autozone 80W90, which im betting is GL5

 

there are only about 3 or 4 different ones available in GL4.

redline carries one

amsoil mtg is probably the best choice.


but do not go with the chrysler tsb on it. chrysler swears up and down that you should run 10w30 motor oil.

 

I personally think redline ml-90 is the best choice. But napa carries a gl-3 light duty gear oil . It's $20 a gallon and that is what I use to flush my ax-15. Works wonders

 

Why not run the 10w30 in it? I know plenty of folks (myself included) that run this without any issue whatsoever-

10w30 and 75w90 gear oil are the same viscosity. Just curious as to why not listen to Chrysler? $10 for the complete fill-up vs. $8+ a quart for synchromesh, seems like a no-brainer.
, not to mention we know dino oil will not eat the synchros. That and for trail that is one less fluid you have to carry -(gear oil for diffs, but one bottle vs. 3 for trans).

Oh, and great idea about flushing on the ground and running with a drill. I would not have thought of that and seems a lot easier than doing it once installed, not to mention if you get all kinds of junk/bronze colored fluid out you know to rebuild BEFORE you install.

 

Well, as far as listening to chrysler, a transmission shop will tell you that under NO circumstances would they run any manual trans with motor oil. The proper addatives for it just aren't there.


I know 100% that I won't run motor oil in mine. It's NOT the same viscosity. Not even close...you can tell that simply by watching it flow. Oil airrates much quicker than gear lube. That is not conducive to proper heat transfer...in fact, it promotes heat rether than keeping a clamp on it.

My 98 ax15 is on it's last legs purely because the motor oil that the PO's shop put in it.

 

yea 10W30 and 75W90 arent the same

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html

 

Lots of good answers. To clean gearboxes on motorcycles I rebuilt I used fuel oil. Fill it up, crank it by hand (could even put a 1/2" drill motor on it with a little fiddling) drain it then follow with kerosene. The kero goes in clean. If it comes out filthy, do it again. I don't think there is anything in there that diesel fuel will harm. I would NOT try Seafoam...that could be bad.