andyg

I can't find the clutch line from the master to slave anywhere. Mine has an injury, and I'm working on making it work. It seems that the plastic line is made of unobtanium? Has anyone came across this before?

DFlintstone

Well, was waiting to see if someone who actually had a clue was going to post.
Plastic Eh? I wonder if it might have the same type of fitting that would accept normal brake line? Also I'm surprised sometimes at what they have at the hardware store. If it's a compression fitting they may have it. Then of course you would think a dealer somewhere should have it. That's all I got. At least you got a bump to the top of the list!

andyg

I think I'm going to be making myself a new line out of flexible tubing. I need to make sure nylon tubing is brake fluid resistant, and I know its 250psi burst pressure which should work. Use a couple tubing compression fittings to mate it all together.

DFlintstone

Sheez, got me there. Auto parts store was no help? Yea, nylon might be pretty indestructible, don't know. Resorting to Google advanced search to McGiver a common part for an Ameaican car seems extreme! So it IS a compression fitting Eh?

Yea, just checked. Nylon is used for brake lines.

freegdr

found this fixhttp://www.xjsocal.com/showthread.ph...6532#post26532

freegdr

or this https://www.jeeppartsdept.com/jeep-c...-xj-parts.html

DFlintstone

Ouch! $105 at the dealer he said! Some of these "improvements"........ (another guy is on day three with his plastic Dif. filler plug!)

I couldn't find it at Jeepparts. Doesn't mean it's not there.

The guy who converted to a steel master from a 90 still had to find a coupling, ("got the coupler at the jy*free lol"), to connect the slave to the steel line.

Sounds like two of those couplings might work also?

andyg

None of my attempts have been successful yet. I believe I'm going to convert to full metal line. Sweat a line and fitting out of the master and then a couple unions and tubing to connect it all. I'm done messing around. Lol

DFlintstone

Maybe a wrecker somewhere could mail you one. There's gotta' be 100's of 93's out there somewhere.

andyg

I'm almost done converting it to a full 1/4" metal line. Attachment to the master was near impossible as it is aluminum not steel. I'm a novice with the solder, so it wasn't working out. I ghetto rigged it, and if it works I'll post my solution. lol

andyg

So the steel line is all fine but I'm having troubles bleeding it. The clutch gets about 90% disengaged which causes lots of grinding so I'm not driving it.

I plan on pressure bleeding it tomorrow while hitting the line with a small hammer to dislodge any air bubbles.

Mmurdock

A steel (or any other kind of solid metal) line is not a good solution for this problem. Your engine and transmission are attached to the chassis on rubber mounts to absorb vibration. As a result they move around a little. This movement will cause a solid line mounted between the body/chassis to eventually crack and break. Even soft metals like copper and aluminium will fail when used like this.

If you can't find a new line for a resonable price, go check out the local wrecking yards for a used one.

andyg

The steel brake line will be fine. Think of full framed vehicles where the master is mounted to the body.and the lines to the frame. They both flex independent of each other there just like mine will.

I had it working well until I ran the master dry bleeding it yesterday. Facepalm

DFlintstone

If there were a problem, a 3 inch coil with two or there turns could provide some flex.

Mmurdock

Another thing you might try is using aftermarket flexible brake lines for designed for motorcycles. I just took a look at the JPCycles web site and they have a 19" braided stainless line for $25. I'm not sure what total length you need but the lines come in all sizes. Most of the lines have standard female brake fittings on the end so there should be no problem hooking it up to your master cylinder.

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-763

You will then need a double female fitting to connect this line to the line from the throw-out bearing. JEGS carries them for $6.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...arentProductId=

This seems like a much more simple and durable solution than building your own line from solid tubing.