CCKen

I would suspect that anything below the water line would be contaminated. There's several important connectors at floor level under the dash that may have gotten water/mud-soaked. You'll have to pull your floor console to get at them.

PUNISHER

Is there a diagram showing the connections/plugs? Something that I can lay eyes on. Thanks..

CCKen

Here's some of the main connectors under the dash.

CCKen

You may not want to go here. It would involve removal of the dash to get to these.

Try removing the trim panel and knee blocker directly below the streeing column and then you can see the large connector to the right of the column. See if its all muddy.

PUNISHER

Yea, I had all those out Sunday and cleaned them up. I was looking around for any plugs that were below the mud/water line and any I found I took apart and cleaned. Is there any plugs on the passenger side?

PUNISHER

There was also a long white plug on the right side that I pulled apart and cleaned! The two pkugs above, gray and white were on the left side of the steering coloumn..

CCKen

Sounding like a parrot I know, but are you sure that replacement cluster is okay. Try disconnecting it and see if the 60 Ohms turns into 120 Ohms.

PUNISHER

Your not sounding like a parrot and I can't guarantee anything with a used cluster. I thought about doing last night after I seen that I actually had voltage once the air bag module was taken out. I will pull the dash apart again either tonight or tomorrow and check the Ohms. I bought a 76 CJ7 and need to pick it up Saturday so I need to get this resolved so I can start on that project.

During all this I have gotten pretty quick at pulling the dash apart but, I have also learned a lot doing this myself! That is a plus..

PUNISHER

Okay, pulled the cluster with the battery unhooked and got 121.1 Ohms across pins 3&11. With battery hooked back up and switch on, there is very low voltage, down in the milli volts is what it shows..

Put the cluster back in, Ohms is 60 and voltage is 2.45/2.48..

Does any of this make sense?

PUNISHER

Should have the airbag module Tuesday/Wednesday..

workingclassxj

Thanks so much for this thread. I just hope a few of the folks involved are still around to respond. 97 Cherokee Sport AWD, here.

I have already replaced the crank position sensor (like everyone recommend first).

I've worked my way through part of this thread in the AM. Here are my results so far.

DLC meter readings

- pin 3 to 5 (ignition in run position, VOM meter in DC 'auto ranging') 2.485 vdc
- pin 11 to 5 (ignition in run position, VOM meter in DC 'auto ranging') 2.490 vdc
- pin 3 to 11 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging') 60 ohms

PCM meter reading : taken on the PCM male pins NOT on the grey #3 connector female positions

- pin 28 to 30 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging) 120 ohms.

Skipped the PCM to DLC resistance check until tomorrow.

TCM

- Disconnected TCM, no luck with starting, or feedback to display panel.

If no one responds, I won't take it personally. I am thankful for a new angle to pursue beyond the Haynes manual.

CCKen

What are your specific problems... No start? Odometer "nobu5"? No gauges? CEL Code?

PUNISHER

I went through quite a bit of trouble shooting with CCKen (thanks again) and the last part that I changed was the airbag module. Well, that didn't help either so Shenandoah Crawler (member on CF) stopped by the house to buy a 242 case from me and asked if it was ok if he looked at my XJ. Of course I told him to help himself and what did he find? A blown fuse that I believe he said fed the PLC..don't quote me on that becasue once the XJ fired up, I was so dang excited that everything else was a blurr!

I installed all new fuses at the beginning and checked them several times during different part swaps but, I didn't check them after I installed the airbag module. Wish I would have but, I let my aggrivation and frustration get in the way and didn't go back and double check. So bad on my part but, a valuable lesson learned!

So the XJ is back up and running but, my gauges still do not work even after all the parts that were changed. This is something I will tackle at some point in time, but for now I am going to enjoy the ride!

Thanks again to CCKen and all his patience and Shenandoah Crawler for taking his time to help..

workingclassxj

I lost all gauges and stopped running going down the highway. Now the vehicle won't start, cranks and cranks. The code is P1694 on the OBD II scan tool.

I have odometer displaying correct mileage reading, but all the analog gauges pegged to zero. The gas gauge has been flakey for sometime, suspect level sensor in the tank.

I had brief moments of the same for a few weeks before, with all gauges zeroing out, and a stall. A second or two later it would start running and gauges would return to normal.

workingclassxj

Did the continuity checks from the grey #3 PCM connector to the DLC.

- found c28 of PCM connector to pin 11 of DLC (VOH to ohms 'auto ranging') to have .5 ohms resistance.

- found c30 of PCM connector to pin 3 of DLC (VOM to ohms 'auto ranging') to have .5 ohms resistance.

The Punisher's experience reminded me not to get tunnel vision and just check to obvious first.

Guess what? I found that my fuel pump fuse was blown ... DOOOOOH!!!!

Replaced it, and my XJ started right up! YES!!! Fortunately my XJ still has the user manual, because the fuse cover doesn't tell you what the mini fuses are for in the "under the hood" fuse box.

Replacing my CPS was not in vain however. My XJ was very hard starting before and now it starts right up.

I have to determine why I am blowing fuel pump fuses. I've worked as a industrial maintenance tech and know that fuses blow out for a reason and will do it again. But that is an easier task than mystery P1694 faults.

I'm still reading

- pin 3 to 11 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging') 60 ohms

but the P1694 code is gone and the jeep is running?