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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Did the continuity checks from the grey #3 PCM connector to the DLC.
- found c28 of PCM connector to pin 11 of DLC (VOH to ohms 'auto ranging') to have .5 ohms resistance.
- found c30 of PCM connector to pin 3 of DLC (VOM to ohms 'auto ranging') to have .5 ohms resistance.
The Punisher's experience reminded me not to get tunnel vision and just check to obvious first.
Guess what? I found that my fuel pump fuse was blown ... DOOOOOH!!!!
Replaced it, and my XJ started right up! YES!!! Fortunately my XJ still has the user manual, because the fuse cover doesn't tell you what the mini fuses are for in the "under the hood" fuse box.
Replacing my CPS was not in vain however. My XJ was very hard starting before and now it starts right up.
I have to determine why I am blowing fuel pump fuses. I've worked as a industrial maintenance tech and know that fuses blow out for a reason and will do it again. But that is an easier task than mystery P1694 faults.
I'm still reading
- pin 3 to 11 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging') 60 ohms
but the P1694 code is gone and the jeep is running?
I would suspect a bad instrument cluster or its C2 connector, pin 2, CCD (+), and/or pin 1, CCD (-), is/are loose.
Disconnect C2 and see if the readings return to 120 Ohms.
Tonight after work, I removed the instrument cluster then ohm-ed out 3 to 11
- pin 3 to 11 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging') 120 ohms
Guess the problem has been pretty much narrowed down ... Thanks a bunch!!!!!
A couple of questions.
1. Is there anyway to further narrow down the connection or the cluster as the wiring issue, before I buy something I don't need?
2. I drove the jeep to Walmart Saturday, 4 miles down the road, and I blew another fuse. Is this a related or unrelated issue? Sorry if I sound stupid, or miss the obvious.
I can't type enough Thank You's!!!
Last edited by workingclassxj; 07-23-2013 at 12:07 AM.
Reason: sounded ignorant
Tonight after work, I removed the instrument cluster then ohm-ed out 3 to 11
- pin 3 to 11 (ignition in lock position, neg terminal disconnected, VOM meter in OHMs 'auto ranging') 120 ohms
Guess the problem has been pretty much narrowed down ... Thanks a bunch!!!!!
A couple of questions.
1. Is there anyway to further narrow down the connection or the cluster as the wiring issue, before I buy something I don't need?
You could read between pin cavities 1 and 2 of the instrument cluster C2 back to the PCM, and see what the resistance is. Then you could read between the mating pins on the cluster and see what you get.
Don't forget, Chrysler came out with a TSB on this and called for replacing connector C2 as the fix.
2. I drove the jeep to Walmart Saturday, 4 miles down the road, and I blew another fuse. Is this a related or unrelated issue? Sorry if I sound stupid, or miss the obvious.
- Trying from pin 1 to 2 on the female connector, I got open readings. If I jiggled and wiggled I would sometimes get meg - ohm level readings.
Testing across 1 and 2 on the cluster, I would get 10 k ohms?
- The fuse I'm talking about, for the fuel pump, is in the "under the hood" fuse box (PDC?) with the relays (fuel pump, starter, etc). It is a 15 amp, that is located on the bottom row of the mini fuses as you are standing at the bumper looking into the engine.
There is a blank spot to the left of it, but I don't have fog lights.
I'm using my user manual that describes it as 19 (fuel pump), and the haynes doesn't have a visual reference at all.
I'm assuming it is the F22 that you have referenced, but I don't have a diagram to confirm that.
I think I'm ordering and installing a new fuel pump unless you think it is a bad idea. Lost my pressure gauge in the divorce, I need another one right now.
- Trying from pin 1 to 2 on the female connector, I got open readings. If I jiggled and wiggled I would sometimes get meg - ohm level readings.
Testing across 1 and 2 on the cluster, I would get 10 k ohms?
Reading from pin cavity 1 to cavity 2 on C2 and getting an open seems odd. I would think that you would be reading 120 Ohms in the PCM termenation resistor circuit, just like reading from 3 and 11 on the DLC. I don't understand the "meg-ohms level" readings, unless it's your auto ranging meter searching for a reading. There is a chance one of the CCD Bus circuit wires from C2 to the PCM is open. The only way to find out is to read from PCM C3, pin 30, to Instrumnent C2, pin 2 (CCD (+), then from PCM C3, pin 28 to instrument C2, pin 1 (CCD Bus (-), and see if there is an open or high resistance (Max 5 Ohms).
As far as testing across 1 and 2 on the cluster, and getting 10 k ohms, I would have to figure this out; unless you are reading the CCD Chip inside the cluster.
I realized I got the orientation of pin 1 and pin 2 on the C2 instrument cluster bass akwards.
The cluster has pins labeled, but connector as far as I can tell does not. Then I looked at the connector diagram you posted and realized that it shows the connectors clip up, and they are clip down in the vehicle.
Changed my VOM meter battery because it gets slow scaling when the battery is low.
All these readings were conducted with negative terminal removed and ignition in lock position.
Pins 1 and 2 C2 on the actual display cluster show 120 ohms
Pins 1 and 2 C2 on the connector female receptacles show 120 ohms
Pin 30 on the C3 connector cable PCM female receptacle to pin 2 female receptacle on the C2 instrument cluster connector .5 ohms
Pin 28 on the C3 connector cable PCM female receptacle to pin 1 female receptacle on the C2 instrument cluster connector .5 ohms
Wiggling and jiggling didn't create any different results.
I put the C3 connector back on to the PCM and checked resistance on pins 3 to 11 on DLC 120 ohms
I then reconnected the instrument cluster and checked resistance on pins 3 to 11 on the DLC 60 ohms again
Flakey connector?
Fuel Pump fuse .... YES. The fuse you have identified as F22, in your picture is definitely the same one that is blowing.
The fuel gauge has been acting funny for some time (works good, hit a bump a stall and fuel gauge pegs the bottom), could something in the fuel level circuit ground out and cause the F22 fuse to blow?
Thanks so much for the patience and knowledge.
Last edited by workingclassxj; 07-25-2013 at 12:58 AM.
Reason: additional information
I realized I got the orientation of pin 1 and pin 2 on the C2 instrument cluster bass akwards.
The cluster has pins labeled, but connector as far as I can tell does not. Then I looked at the connector diagram you posted and realized that it shows the connectors clip up, and they are clip down in the vehicle.
Changed my VOM meter battery because it gets slow scaling when the battery is low.
All these readings were conducted with negative terminal removed and ignition in lock position.
Pins 1 and 2 C2 on the actual display cluster show 120 ohms
Pins 1 and 2 C2 on the connector female receptacles show 120 ohms
Pin 30 on the C3 connector cable PCM female receptacle to pin 2 female receptacle on the C2 instrument cluster connector .5 ohms
Pin 28 on the C3 connector cable PCM female receptacle to pin 1 female receptacle on the C2 instrument cluster connector .5 ohms
Wiggling and jiggling didn't create any different results.
I put the C3 connector back on to the PCM and checked resistance on pins 3 to 11 on DLC 120 ohms
I then reconnected the instrument cluster and checked resistance on pins 3 to 11 on the DLC 60 ohms again
Flakey connector?
Could be the connector. The TSB that replaces C2 is available from a Crysler dealer.
I've lost the data that talks about the CCD Bus and the termination resistors and the module that originates the 5 volt bus bias, which the CCD Bus requires to operate. I think the instrument cluster may be the Bus Bias module, but couldn't bet on it. Just info.
By your 120 Ohm readings of the instrument cluster it looks like its termination resistor array is good, and the CCD Bus communication wires from the cluster to the PCM look good. Either the C2 cavities are enlarged so much they don't make contact with their respective pins as they should (TSB fix). However, before doing the TSB, try tweeking (read twist) the CCD Bus pins in the instrument cluter just a bit and see if they make good contact with the cavities. Use a some tweezers and twist (corkscrew) the pins ever so gently about .005-.010". Plug the cluster back in and see if it's the fix.
Fuel Pump fuse .... YES. The fuse you have identified as F22, in your picture is definitely the same one that is blowing.
The fuel gauge has been acting funny for some time (works good, hit a bump a stall and fuel gauge pegs the bottom), could something in the fuel level circuit ground out and cause the F22 fuse to blow?
Thanks so much for the patience and knowledge.
I don't think the fuel quantity sender circuit would blow F22.
Here's some 1997 diagrams of the fuel quantity indication circuit and a pinout of the fuel pump module connector if you want to read these out.
You may want to fabricate a jumper switch to activate the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay socket. The switch should have a 15 Amp rating at minimum. Here's a pic of the switch I put together when I tested my fuel pump amp draw. You would be jumping pin sockets 30 to 87 in the relay sockt. The pump will run off the battery...until the fuse blows.
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I think the '97 XJ is the only one with this DLC splice block connector. I think it's under the dash by the DLC. I don't see it in the '99 and up diagrams. Interesting.
I recently moved so the xj took kind of a back seat. Unfortunately, I am still in an apartment with inadequate ability to repair my vehicles.
I purchase the instrument cluster connector replacement from the dealership, and installed it. Wow, that was a lot of butt splices with no room for error. The wires were too short for a second cut off if you screwed up a single splice. I'm pretty sure I got it right.
No luck same readings. It looks like the instrument cluster is the issue.
In the process of moving the vehicle, it died and failed to restart right in front of my new townhouse. It would crank and crank. It had 50 psi of fuel pressure and had spark. I discovered it would start with the throttle on the floor.
I replaced the TPS and it fired right up.
I also fixed this lingering problem that I described in another thread.
Shortly after moving into my house back in May, I discovered the source of this problem.
I had my XJ stalled out with the same fuse blown, just down the road from my house. Fortunately now I now have a double bay basement garage with climate control.
I jumper-ed out the fuel pump and put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. The pressure maintained fine, for an extended period.
So, I started wiggling wires and eventually found this.
The fuel pump wires were rubbing on the rear differential. Problem solved. I haven't had and engine code since.
Last edited by workingclassxj; 09-19-2014 at 06:32 PM.
Reason: illiteracy
07-20-2013, 07:43 AM
Fortunately my XJ still has the user manual, because the fuse cover doesn't tell you what the mini fuses are for in the "under the hood" fuse box.
