Can anyone recommend a good coil pack for 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4L I-6

I'm concidering these.

AIRTEX / WELLS 5C1181

UNITED IGNITION WIRE COP100

Found on rock auto.com.

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog.php

 

Your links aren't actual working links.

 

I opted for the dodge viper coil. ( I know, the vipers not a 6 cylinder)

Look it up. I dumped the coil rail and haven't looked back.

 

Dumped it and replaced with spark plug wires?

 

Either one of those will work, just stay away from the super cheap ones.

 

I bought my current coil rail from Rock Auto. I believe I'm running the Standard Motor Products rail, which is the same price as the United Ignition. I have had no issues at all with it. But any of the $70-$80 rails should do.

The so-called "Viper" conversion just replaces your coil rail with a Dodge 6 cylinder coil pack from a Chrysler minivan. It's called a "Viper" conversion because the Vipers and Dodge trucks use the same minivan coil pack to power the front six cylinders in the V10. You mount the coil pack somewhere else in the engine bay (usually on the side of the coolant overflow bottle), run spark plug wires and solder in some extended wires for the coil connector to reach the coil pack.

What you gain is: nothing. The coil rail has three coils that each fire two cylinders. The coil pack has three coils that each fire two cylinders. The coils themselves are virtually identical, just that one is in a pack and the other has them mounted on a rail. They don't spark hotter. You get absolutely no gain in performance whatsoever.

What you lose is simplicity. By doing this, you add multiple potential failure points at each of the plug wires and the wire to the coil. Plus you now have another set of maintenance items to buy periodically. And it also junks up the engine bay with unnecessary wires to get in the way when you're trying to get to things on the passenger side of the engine, like your oil pressure sensor.

The only legitimate reason to do this is if you swap your 0331 head (which has mounting points for the coil rail) for a '99 and earlier 0630 head (which does not have the mounting points). Then it might make sense. Otherwise it's just a waste of time and money just to sound cool when you tell people your minivan coil is a "Viper" coil.

 

Did the new coil rail make a difference in performance or gas mileage?

Thanks for the info.

 

I don't know, but I would guess the answer is no. My existing coil rail was fine, but I was swapping in a stroker and installed a bunch of new parts with it just to be starting the clock from zero. I still have my old one in case I ever suspect I have a bad coil and need a known good one to swap in.

Usually these coils either work or they don't. I doubt a new rail is going to improve your gas mileage or performance. But I could be wrong.

 

I'm not surprised by some of the snarky answers I see on here. As I grow older I have less patience for the keyboard mechanic. One would think that instead of assuming something as inane like 'it sounds cool to tell people your coil is a viper coil', that person would ask "why do you prefer the viper coil?" I'll tell those that care to listen.

First, I don't have to screw around with removing the coil when changing out plugs, removing a plug to see how your motor is running (you know, those old crazy things like -rich, lean, etc.) or heck, getting your motor back to top dead center.

Second, I can tell with the use of my ancient yet effective timing light if one of the three coils has gone bad or is failing. The rail pack is ridiculous in that testing is next to impossible.

Finally, messy wires? I guess all those 302's, 350's, 454's, 455's, hell you name it are just rolling garbage dumps.

I don't have a problem with someone disagreeing with me, happens all the time. I don't have the time or the patience for the lack of respect shown by so many on threads like these.

Happy New Year fellas.

 

I didn't ask because I've read all that before and just don't see any advantage. If your vehicle is in decent repair there's not a lot of reason to be constantly fiddling with spark plugs, and the coil rail itself is not difficult to test with a meter and a set of jumpers. Or you can just get a backup out of the junkyard to swap in if you suspect the coils.

With the bellyaching I see about the coil rail, you'd think the simple matter of pulling it off was on par with swapping the heater core. I'm still of the opinion that 95 out of 100 people who do a minivan coil swap do it to chase the fad first, then look up reasons for the swap afterward to justify it.

 

Why?

 

Because I'm going to replace mine and don't want a bad product.

 

I think the question was why you want to replace it. Are you sure it's bad? That's not a high failure part, and usually the symptoms that might point to a bad coil end up being caused by something else.