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computer keeps reading o2 sensor. swapped out twice. rough idle getting worst. help.

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Old 01-25-2022, 06:01 PM
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Thumbs up electrical tape and wire ties


For me it was electrical tape and wire ties - and a blowen fuse
Old 01-25-2022, 07:23 PM
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should i run a block test combustion leak test? i ordered on in the mail before i did the compression test and i just received it. is it even neccessary or did the compression test kind of void that?
Old 01-25-2022, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fr3dbilli3
should i run a block test combustion leak test? i ordered on in the mail before i did the compression test and i just received it. is it even neccessary or did the compression test kind of void that?
Did you stop losing coolant?
Old 01-26-2022, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by fr3dbilli3
should i run a block test combustion leak test? i ordered on in the mail before i did the compression test and i just received it. is it even neccessary or did the compression test kind of void that?
you could get an oil analysis done, shows coolant in oil, and various other conditions, including metals that should not be there, ie bearing wear, cost about $40, Google it
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Old 01-26-2022, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Yup 12V.
With the code you're showing that says the heater circuit is bad and the symptoms of dying once warmed up, you have verified the fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit is good right? If you've not seeing 12-volts with the key-on, you need to fix that first.
Old 01-28-2022, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
With the code you're showing that says the heater circuit is bad and the symptoms of dying once warmed up, you have verified the fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit is good right? If you've not seeing 12-volts with the key-on, you need to fix that first.
o2s relay fuse correct? i checked and it looked good. i've attached a photo below of a fuse box display for a 00' that i pulled off the internet that matches my fuse box. just want to make sure we're discussing the same thing.





i've mentioned in the past that my friend who owned the car before swapped out o2 sensors twice but being that i didn't physically change it myself, i decided to swap that part out and obviously, still getting same CEL codes. i'm currently in the process of replacing my fuel injectors and i noticed something that stood out to me. let me know if this could possibly be whats causing all of this messsssss. a buddy of mine sent me the wire diagram off alldata that i've attached below as well. the colors seem to match up but im not quite sure what the previous electrician or whatever you want to call him did to this and why he would do this.

let me know your thoughts



following the connection,





Last edited by fr3dbilli3; 01-28-2022 at 02:45 PM. Reason: added photo
Old 01-28-2022, 03:53 PM
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Does that thing have ABS?

And did you unravel the O2 sensor harness?
Old 01-28-2022, 10:04 PM
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That could be the way someone might try to fix a burned pin in the connector. Not my favorite, but it could be made to work.

Back in carburetor days I had an Escort that would apply the choke randomly for several minutes at a time way after warmup. "Pros" couldn't figure it out in three tries. I finally camped out with the wiring diagram until I found a bodge wire somewhat like you picture between my choke circuit and something else. Put the wires back to factory config and the problem was gone for good.

Perhaps your bodge wire cross connects something? Does the purple wire absolutely for sure go to the yellow wire on the other side of that connector? If they are one pin off from each other that would be a problem.
Old 01-28-2022, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave51
Does that thing have ABS?

And did you unravel the O2 sensor harness?

i don’t think so. i don’t see abs on the dash when i turn on my car.

i haven’t unraveled the o2 harness. it’s kind of in a tight spot and would need to have the car lifted to do it comfortably. going to take it to a electrician once this snow storm in new york blows over.
Old 01-29-2022, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fr3dbilli3
... i noticed something that stood out to me. let me know if this could possibly be whats causing all of this messsssss.
I'd doubt it, as it seems to me you'd get different codes:


Old 01-29-2022, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by fr3dbilli3
i haven’t unraveled the o2 harness. it’s kind of in a tight spot and would need to have the car lifted to do it comfortably.
Not for nothin', but the harness in question is totally accessible from the top:



Old 01-29-2022, 03:56 AM
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I advise all new XJ owners with any fault to test every fuse, both terminals, with a test light.

Sure it takes 10-15 minutes, and a mirror for the under dash ones, but (in my case), the '96 manual is not accurate,
and you may either pick up that a relevant fuse is blown, or if not, some other fuse is blown
Old 01-29-2022, 04:02 AM
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Specifically, in here:



Old 01-29-2022, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by awg
I advise all new XJ owners with any fault to test every fuse, both terminals, with a test light.
He should probably do the relays too (O2 heater relays).
Old 01-29-2022, 04:07 AM
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In addition, I can advise, that at least with the earlier OBD2 model (my '96 ers) that the downstream O2 sensor plays no role in anything other than sensing a failed Cat, and that entirely disconnecting the harness will not set the CEL, only generate an OBD2 code of P0138


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